[Flanderian]

A very well done and interesting blog article by the superb blogger of Tweedland -

https://tweedlandthegentlemansclub.blogspot.com/2018/02/harry-hall-hacking-jacket-or-keepers.html

 

[Matt S]

That's excellent! You don't say many hacking jackets with waist seams. And it's looks like it's made of an indestructible whipcord.

 

[Flanderian]

That's excellent! You don't say many hacking jackets with waist seams. And it's looks like it's made of an indestructible whipcord.

It most certainly is a twill, yet I'd swear I've read it referred to as keepers tweed, though it's very different from what I think of as tweed. Seen some mercers selling it, and it's really heavy, around 20oz or so. Very tightly twisted extremely tough yarn is what does it evidently.

 

[Mr. B. Scott Robinson]

Thanks for the post.

There is endless confusion on ebay regarding proper nomenclature of hacking jackets/norfolk jackets/half norfolk jackets, etc. The linked article was excellent.

I can see the fabric above being snagged by a thorn and the pull showing. I have a DAKS shooting coat in an almost identical material.

My keepers tweed trousers are rougher, much more dense, have more colors in the yarn and will virtually stand by themselves. I will see if I can get a photo for comparison.

An interesting subject.

Cheers,

BSR

 

[Langham]

It most certainly is a twill, yet I'd swear I've read it referred to as keepers tweed, though it's very different from what I think of as tweed. Seen some mercers selling it, and it's really heavy, around 20oz or so. Very tightly twisted extremely tough yarn is what does it evidently.

We would call that keeper's tweed, but it's a slightly lighter weight than is usually seen on a riding coat. My own is 35 oz and it's definitely thornproof - I posted a photo of it here some time ago.
The coat shown is cut for riding, obviously, and as such would usually have a panel back, but for some reason does not.
Harry Hall has been well known here for decades but I had been under the impression the firm had for some time confined itself to the bottom end of the ready to wear equestrian market. Perhaps I was mistaken.
"Ratcatcher", by the way, simply means less formal hunting wear, as worn for autumn hunting ahead of the opening meet, and while a coat in keeper's tweed, worn with a coloured stock and brown boots, is the most common interpretation, a coat of almost any tweed might be worn. In an attempt to tone things down, some hunts in England now wear ratcatcher throughout the season.

 

[Flanderian]

We would call that keeper's tweed, but it's a slightly lighter weight than is usually seen on a riding coat. My own is 35 oz and it's definitely thornproof - I posted a photo of it here some time ago.
The coat shown is cut for riding, obviously, and as such would usually have a panel back, but for some reason does not.
Harry Hall has been well known here for decades but I had been under the impression the firm had for some time confined itself to the bottom end of the ready to wear equestrian market. Perhaps I was mistaken.
"Ratcatcher", by the way, simply means less formal hunting wear, as worn for autumn hunting ahead of the opening meet, and while a coat in keeper's tweed, worn with a coloured stock and brown boots, is the most common interpretation, a coat of almost any tweed might be worn. In an attempt to tone things down, some hunts in England now wear ratcatcher throughout the season.

Very instructive! Thank you!

Having not been upon a horse since as a lad placed upon a pony, I have only an arm-chair familiarity with the details of equestrian dress. In perusing mercer's stock I've seen thornproof keepers tweed, but didn't recall specific weights. Sounds a veritable suit of armor at 35oz's!

 

[Langham]

The bla

The lapels have been pressed in such a way that the top button is obscured, elongating the lapels. I understand that this is a 'trad' thing to do, but on a jacket such as this, intended it would seem to be worn riding, it is quite wrong. True hacking jackets have rather short lapels, and always three buttons on show, which should all be fastened when riding. I like the detail of a flapped breast pocket, and also the tattersall lining and poacher's pocket.