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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is Benedikt Fries, a German haberdasher who now lives and works in Florence, Italy. He sells very stylish accessories for gentlemen and guys like me.

https://shibumi-firenze.com/

I chose this photo to demonstrate how stylish the odd vest/waistcoat can look when worn with the proper suit. And it does, not least because of the natural affinity between the Saxony cloth of the vest and the magnificent twill of which the suit is made. Color and texture couldn't be much improved.

But I feel compelled to point out what I think unfortunate. While Herr Fries typically does brilliantly melding shirt, tie, PS and other clothing, this combination is to me disharmonious. And while the vest's cloth is great, it's a bit too long, and everyone please stop with the abbreviated number of buttons. A vest has 6 buttons. If that doesn't work, you're cutting it wrong.

 

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Love the outfit, absolutely hate the shirt. The sub-optimal colour is one thing, but the extreme cutaway collar is just plain awful in my eyes.
Agreed. The stripes in the shirt and the strong verticals in the plaid on the vest are brought to a jarring halt at the collar. It hints at Madame Guillotine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The lavender in the shirt is harmonious with the green suit, but is an annoying distraction with the rest of what is being worn. Eagles suggestion of an ecru shirt would look great and offer great freedom with the rest of pieces. And I just don't like the tie. Would love to see a soft wool or cashmere tie with this.
 

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I actually had questions about odd vests with suits. Should they be patterned? Should they be of similar fabric or of significantly different fabric? Also, do odd vests bring down the formality of a suit? Is there a suit too formal for an odd vest?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I actually had questions about odd vests with suits. Should they be patterned? Should they be of similar fabric or of significantly different fabric? Also, do odd vests bring down the formality of a suit? Is there a suit too formal for an odd vest?
IMHO, it's less of a matter what they should be, and the only proscription concerning cloth would be it shouldn't be too similar to the cloth of the suit. Little usually looks worse than a near miss.

That aside, they can be solid, or patterned, and from a variety of cloth. Anything that looks good with the suit. In the '60's, velvet vests with country cloth was popular for a while, and could look very smart. Silk brocade as a rakish possibility for evening wear. Discreet satin stripes with a dark business suit. Tweed with corduroy, corduroy with tweed. And of course, suede with country cloth also. It all can look very nice if worn adeptly.
 

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I wore a doeskin vest with a poplin suit to a Gatsby party a couple of weeks ago--with panama and spectators. I thought it turned out quite well.
 
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