[nupton]

My tux has sat in its closet for a while now, occasionally worn, but in those periods between, I can hear its wispy voice, calling to me, saying, "please, please get me a partner, some formalwear with whom I can converse."

Well, okay, not really, but the fact is my wardrobe seems lacking in a certain joie de vivre that I think I could perhaps fill with a white dinner jacket or a white tie ensemble to drag out when I'm in a mood for a higher level of dress.

It's not that I ever really get invited anywhere, you see, but it's that I have this terrible compulsion to dress as nicely as possible.

But the question is, of course, which to go with first. Certainly the dinner jacket has an unmistakable class, and to my eye, looks absolutely stunning. This combined with a cash advantage in that I would not need to buy new accessories or trousers as I would for a tailcoat puts the WDJ in what would be a hefty lead if it were not for two things: that a tailcoat has an elegance and sophistication that leaves the WDJ in the dust, and physical considerations.

Simply put, I am huge. 6'3, 50" waist/56" jacket. I have no idea what of the two options would be the most flattering to my frame. So, disciples of Andy, I ask you for your opinion on this matter. Which is the one you, in my boat, would choose?

 

[Literide]

I would start with the white (off white) DJ. Its only one item to buy as you have all the other parts.
Work on the tails later. Not sure what kind of invitations you may get but summer black tie is probably only slightly more likley to occur than a white tie invitation.

Another thought might be a velvet dj or smoking jacket than can always get some use at home for entertaining.

Cheers

 

[p.o.t.u.s]

DJ over tails. No question.

 

[Concordia]

If you ever get invited to events that require tails, your choice is easy. State dinners, that sort of thing. Opening night at the Met if you're part of the club that dresses well there. I suppose deb balls and similar social events.

If you are a classical musician, tails are also often part of the work uniform.

Otherwise you will have absolutely no use for them. Which is not to say that a white dinner jacket is very useful away from summer music festivals or casinos near Cuba. But you're more likely to manufacture a reason to wear if than the white-tie rig.

 

[Mark from Plano]

I wear my white dinner jacket once or twice a year. I have never worn tails.

 

[rip]

I would certainly opt for the dinner jacket before the tails, although the properly accoutered gentleman should eventually have both. As for your size, white is generally not considered to be the most flattering color for a large man; that said, spend some time watching Sydney Greenstreet movies to see just how elegant a large man can be, particularly in white suits and dinner jackets.

 

[TMMKC]

Go with the white DJ. Unless you're invited to the White House for a State Dinner, or get invited to one of a relatively small number of functions in the U.S. where white tie/tails would be appropriate, you'd be wasting your money.

 

[Sator]

I too aspire in my dreams to owning a bespoke dress suit, morning coat and frock coat. However, practical considerations intervene and every time I go to my tailor I order another damned lounge suit instead.

If you are going to get a dress suit make sure it is bespoke. Body coats really have to be bespoke to work. They are very difficult to alter, and that is one of the reasons for their marginalisation by lounge coats. The latter fits the bill better for our mass produced RTW age.

The trouble is if you walked into a tailor's shop, unless you gave specific reasons why you wanted a dress coat, you will probably find yourself being talked out of it. You would have to make up some elaborate story about going to London to meet the Queen or getting married before some tailors will be willing to make such a difficult garment for you.

Personally, I think I probably would feel comfortable turning up to a charity ball in a dress coat. But that is just me. However, it would have to be a bespoke garment.

 

[TheWardrobeGirl]

DJ over tails. No question.

Ditto...

 

[Bog]

Certainly the dinner jacket has an unmistakable class, and to my eye, looks absolutely stunning.

Evening hierarchy:

0. Court/Academic/Clerical - as required
1. Tails
2. Black dinner jacket
3. Black double breasted dinner jacket
4. White dinner jacket - summer/casino/tropical climate wear only
5. Velvet/fancy dinner jacket - casual/at home
6. Smoking jacket - casual/at home
7. Black/blue lounge suit

In no way are Tails interchangeable with a White dinner jacket except in the warmest of climates.