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Hello All,

I've been binge-watching Billions on Showtime and really like the 3-piece suits with double-breasted, lapel vests that Paul Giamatti's character wears from time to time in the second season.



Chuck Rhoades probably has his suits custom made, but I don't earn a New York US Attorney's salary. Anyone have some suggestions for OTR options?

Thanks in advance.
 

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For the record, those three-piece suits with double-breasted waistcoats which I own (at least currently - the one which I bought from Tyrwhitt was bought at full price, but I no longer own it) were all bought on sale. The latest acquisition of this kind was featured in the WAYWT thread only yesterday.
 

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I'm sorry but Paul Giamatti's DB vest is truly awful.

The reason is length. Most vests these days are too long. But this one goes to the extreme. The hem is almost at his crotch!

DB vests especially benefit from classical length--that is, just a little bit longer than the natural waist, worn with very, very high rise trousers. The longer the vest is, the worse it looks.

No modern OTR vest that I know of is of an acceptable cut. Your best bet is to shop vintage.

Here are some good examples:




 

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I'm sorry but Paul Giamatti's DB vest is truly awful.

The reason is length. Most vests these days are too long. But this one goes to the extreme. The hem is almost at his crotch!

DB vests especially benefit from classical length--that is, just a little bit longer than the natural waist, worn with very, very high rise trousers. The longer the vest is, the worse it looks.

No modern OTR vest that I know of is of an acceptable cut. Your best bet is to shop vintage.

Here are some good examples:




Thank you for another splendid contribution!

I couldn't agree more.

I had missed that detail entirely. It looks truly bizarre in any conventional sense!

Probably unlikely, but could it have any possible reference to the character's background? It looks vaguely like a garment that might have been traditional among some religious groups.
 

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Can a man with anything beyond minimal girth pull off a DB waistcoat? Why accentuate a negative characteristic with even more buttons and fabric?

Maybe that is why Giamatti's waistcoat is absurdly long. He is not a svelte guy and I think a bit short to boot?

Cheers,

BSR
 

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I'm sorry but Paul Giamatti's DB vest is truly awful.

The reason is length. Most vests these days are too long. But this one goes to the extreme. The hem is almost at his crotch!

DB vests especially benefit from classical length--that is, just a little bit longer than the natural waist, worn with very, very high rise trousers. The longer the vest is, the worse it looks.

No modern OTR vest that I know of is of an acceptable cut. Your best bet is to shop vintage.

Here are some good examples:




The examples which you showed are with, as you have said, very high-rise trousers - much higher rise trousers than would be acceptable to most consumers in this day and age.

I agree both that the hem of a double-breasted waistcoat should fall to around the level of the natural waist, and that the waistband of the trousers should be concealed (there seems to be a trend for short waistcoats with low-rise trousers, revealing the trouser waistband and/or one's belt - not a good look, IMHO).

Can a man with anything beyond minimal girth pull off a DB waistcoat? Why accentuate a negative characteristic with even more buttons and fabric?

Maybe that is why Giamatti's waistcoat is absurdly long. He is not a svelte guy and I think a bit short to boot?

Cheers,

BSR
I agree that Giamatti's waistcoat is much too long, and it can only be styled that way in an attempt to hide excess avoirdupois around his middle, which accentuates him being "vertically challenged" (spoken by someone who, in his senescence, has shrunk to being 5' 8").
 

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Can a man with anything beyond minimal girth pull off a DB waistcoat? Why accentuate a negative characteristic with even more buttons and fabric?

Maybe that is why Giamatti's waistcoat is absurdly long. He is not a svelte guy and I think a bit short to boot?

Cheers,

BSR
This is my guess as well. Giamatti would look terrible in the old school DB vests shown in this thread. He'd look like a pregnant woman.

I would say that if he has to be in a DB waistcoat, the cut of the one shown is probably about as flattering as it will get.
 

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I agree both that the hem of a double-breasted waistcoat should fall to around the level of the natural waist, and that the waistband of the trousers should be concealed (there seems to be a trend for short waistcoats with low-rise trousers, revealing the trouser waistband and/or one's belt - not a good look, IMHO).
Totally! Just to add, if the trousers are of a type without the waistband, the vest can be made shorter, because not as much overlap would be necessary to over the waistband.

 

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Not that I'm am sufficiently punctilious regarding my personal dress, but isn't the ideal standard that the bottom of the vest should just meet the top of the waistband? :icon_scratch:

Edit: BTW, still love those check trousers! :icon_hailthee:
 

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Not that I'm am sufficiently punctilious regarding my personal dress, but isn't the ideal standard that the bottom of the vest should just meet the top of the waistband? :icon_scratch:

Edit: BTW, still love those check trousers! :icon_hailthee:
Thanks! The waist needs to be at least at inch past the waistband I'm afraid. Otherwise the waistband might show itself in certain postures. Mr. Alex Hill's self-made outfit for example, great as is, suffers from the waistband peeking issue.

 

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Yes, high waist trousers, no belt with the waistcoat covering the waistband of the trousers is correct.

The difficulty is that I have a small paunch requiring that wear suspenders with high waist trousers. When wearing a waistcoat, when I must utilize "the necessary", I must half undress. A real pain.

Cheers,

BSR
 

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Below the waistband and above the pockets.
Thanks! The waist needs to be at least at inch past the waistband I'm afraid. Otherwise the waistband might show itself in certain postures. Mr. Alex Hill's self-made outfit for example, great as is, suffers from the waistband peeking issue.

Yes, high waist trousers, no belt with the waistcoat covering the waistband of the trousers is correct.
Thank you gentlemen! While i no longer have any suits with waistcoats/vests, that's typically where they fall on me. When I had a tailor, I only had him making SB vests and the front at the buttons would sit as you described, though of course, that portion is actually longer as the vest's waist curves upward from that point.

MY question was prompted more be a vague recollection of reading an ancient and erudite guide to fit that I recalled using the term "kissing" for where the vest meets the waistband. Obviously, I remembered wrong. o_O

The difficulty is that I have a small paunch requiring that wear suspenders with high waist trousers. When wearing a waistcoat, when I must utilize "the necessary", I must half undress. A real pain.

Cheers,

BSR
Worry not about that small paunch! Given sufficient maturity, and proper attention to the niceties of life, it should be possible to achieve a fully developed one! :D
 

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This is my guess as well. Giamatti would look terrible in the old school DB vests shown in this thread. He'd look like a pregnant woman.

I would say that if he has to be in a DB waistcoat, the cut of the one shown is probably about as flattering as it will get.
The high-rise trousers and shorter waistcoat would actually be much more flattering because they would give his body a smoother line. The problem with a long waistcoat on a larger man is that is hangs off the belly.
 
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