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Suits in SPECTRE

9.3K views 21 replies 16 participants last post by  medhat  
#1 ·
Anyone got any views about the suits (and indeed clothes generally) in SPECTRE? ( has it been released Stateside? )

I must say that apart from the cloth I thought the lounge suits looked ridiculous -- rather than Bond's rippling body exploding out of them, or whatever the look that the costume director might have been going for :icon_scratch: they just looked too small, too tight and that they had shrunk in the wash. I'm sure Tom Ford wouldn't be seen dead in a suit like that.

I liked the return of the white dinner jacket, which looked pretty sharp, although it was grating that it it was two button and looked like a cannibalised lounge suit jacket.

I liked the sportswear especially - there seemed to be at least 3 different types of navy jacket and I liked them all. I also liked the light suede leather jacket. The shoes, which I had heard were furnished by C&J weren't that noticeable and I didnt even see the double monkstrap black boot that had been getting a bit of press attention in the Financial Times beforehand. Bond also wore some nice looking N Peal turtleneck sweaters.

All in all though I think that a 47 year old Daniel Craig looked a bit like a male version of "mutton dressed as lamb". I hope they have a different costume director next time, at least for the suits.

Ralph Fiennes looked great in a double breasted pinstripe/chalkstripe!

Well, as you can see I'm no Matt S but I'd be interested to hear what others thought of Bond's wardrobe in SPECTRE (with apologies to those who haven't/can't see it yet!)
 
#2 · (Edited)
I don't know. I loathe the way Craig struts like a eurotrash GQ model in his Bond movies. He doesn't have the ease or grace of physical presence that Connery brought to the role.

As well, his suits, shirts, and pants are too tight. He looks like he can barely breathe or turn around.
 
#6 ·
I think the suits are an improvement over the suits in Skyfall. They're still too tight, but they looked worse in Skyfall. This time they just have too much waist suppression, but they aren't bursting open at the chest and the sleeves aren't completely rippled.

The dinner jacket is an abomination. Two buttons, silk facings and a single vent should never be features of an ivory dinner jacket.

Overall I like the general styles of the suits. There's a great selection of cloths, and all except the black suit perfectly suit Daniel Craig's complexion. At least there's a reason for Bond wearing black. I've seen all the suits in person and they're very impressive. I also tried on the suits, and for someone with a slimmer, less athletic build they fit very well. The suits are fantastic on the right person, they just aren't right for Daniel Craig.

The casual clothes are very tasteful.
 
#10 ·
I must say that apart from the cloth I thought the lounge suits looked ridiculous -- rather than Bond's rippling body exploding out of them, or whatever the look that the costume director might have been going for :icon_scratch: they just looked too small, too tight and that they had shrunk in the wash. I'm sure Tom Ford wouldn't be seen dead in a suit like that.

I liked the return of the white dinner jacket, which looked pretty sharp, although it was grating that it it was two button and looked like a cannibalised lounge suit jacket.

I liked the sportswear especially - there seemed to be at least 3 different types of navy jacket and I liked them all. I also liked the light suede leather jacket. The shoes, which I had heard were furnished by C&J weren't that noticeable and I didnt even see the double monkstrap black boot that had been getting a bit of press attention in the Financial Times beforehand. Bond also wore some nice looking N Peal turtleneck sweaters.
Almost positive Tom Ford did the suits in Spectre (as well as Skyfall), and I do find it puzzling why the wardrobe folks want such a "constricting" look, because it can't be by accident. And what input did Tom Ford have in the creative process?

I big improvement, IMO, over the last few films, wardrobe wise, has definitely been with the sportswear, which has been consistently luxurious, elegant, yet pricey. Quintessential James Bond.
 
#13 ·
Almost positive Tom Ford did the suits in Spectre (as well as Skyfall), and I do find it puzzling why the wardrobe folks want such a "constricting" look, because it can't be by accident. And what input did Tom Ford have in the creative process?

I big improvement, IMO, over the last few films, wardrobe wise, has definitely been with the sportswear, which has been consistently luxurious, elegant, yet pricey. Quintessential James Bond.
Yes, Tom Ford did the suits for Skyfall and Spectre. There is a Brunello Cucinelli jacket with a noticeably softer look in light brown wool, linen and silk paired with slightly lighter trousers, but the rest of the tailored clothing is from Tom Ford. The suits in Spectre look constricting, but not nearly as constricting as they were in Skyfall. The suit jackets in Spectre only just have too much waist suppression. The suits in Skyfall were not only too tight in the waist, but also a full size too small in the chest and shoulders, and the sleeves and legs were too snug. In Spectre, Craig looks like he can move his arms and legs without much constriction. The trousers rise is too low, which creates an unsightly gap under the button of the jacket. I truly don't understand the sloppy tight waist. It's not like a rumpled waist shows off Daniel Craig's physique any better than a closely-fitted waist that has a clean fit. Perhaps they are just bad at getting a proper close fit.

I don't believe Tom Ford had much input in the costume design for the film. Costume designer Jany Temime and Daniel Craig had the most input. Tom Ford mostly just creates what they want. The design of the black herringbone three-piece suit with peaked lapels and the ivory dinner jacket were Tom Ford designs that the film adopted and modified to have the tighter fit.
 
#14 ·
#15 · (Edited)
Here are some pictures of some of the Tom Ford costumes from "Spectre". You can buy them in a Tom Ford shop if you want to make a spectre of yourself......

https://www.thefashionisto.com/james-bond-suits-2015-tom-ford-capsule-collection/
On review I prefer Daniel Craig's take on the look. While still a bit too constricted for reality, his look beats the "I haven't eaten on 30 days" look of current male models (I suppose that's even more true with women!). A skinny secret agent doesn't quite have the same degree of menace. Could also be that Craig is just a bit stockier (relative, I know) than Connery or Brosnan, even a bit more than Dalton. But still the best Bond since Connery by a mile.
 
#16 ·
Just saw the movie. His suits are still quite tight and the pants are too low, but what really irked me that many of the jackets did not seem to fit correctly...saw collar gaps on several occasions, and not just on him but on C as well. M remains the most nicely dressed male in the movie.

I did like the knitted ties and especially the one with a pointed end that Craig wears. The shoes were also quite appropriate with danite soles rather than leather.
 
#17 ·
Almost positive Tom Ford did the suits in Spectre (as well as Skyfall), and I do find it puzzling why the wardrobe folks want such a "constricting" look, because it can't be by accident. And what input did Tom Ford have in the creative process?

I big improvement, IMO, over the last few films, wardrobe wise, has definitely been with the sportswear, which has been consistently luxurious, elegant, yet pricey. Quintessential James Bond.
I made Daniel Craig a few suits for a play at the back end of last year. During a fitting I asked about the new Bond movie and if Tom Ford would be making him the suits again. He told me that he was

Leonard
 
#18 ·
I made Daniel Craig a few suits for a play at the back end of last year. During a fitting I asked about the new Bond movie and if Tom Ford would be making him the suits again. He told me that he was

Leonard
Have you seen the suits in Spectre, Leonard ? I'd be very interested in your views on the style and fit if you have. (If you feel comfortable sharing on an open forum of course!)

The style with its tight fit reminds me very much of women's clothing. Not flattering for a man, particularly the trousers (although the jackets not great either). I would be very surprised if Tom Ford himself would wear a suit of this style (or even endorse it if he was being honest), based on what I've seen and read of his personal style in the media anyway. It's a shame because Daniel Craig has a fantastic physique and I don't think these (tailored) clothes showed him at his best - they were a distraction.
 
#20 ·
Have you seen the suits in Spectre, Leonard ? I'd be very interested in your views on the style and fit if you have. (If you feel comfortable sharing on an open forum of course!)

The style with its tight fit reminds me very much of women's clothing. Not flattering for a man, particularly the trousers (although the jackets not great either). I would be very surprised if Tom Ford himself would wear a suit of this style (or even endorse it if he was being honest), based on what I've seen and read of his personal style in the media anyway. It's a shame because Daniel Craig has a fantastic physique and I don't think these (tailored) clothes showed him at his best - they were a distraction.
I saw the movie on saturday with my wife a three of our children. The movie, I thought, was great.

Personally, I did not like his clothes. I also did not think they fit. But in this day and age it's about money, not necessarily integrity.

I made all the clothes for Wolf of wall Street. the New York Post ran a photograph of Dicaprio in one of my suit saying " A Wolf in Armani Clothing". Armani paid for this privilege, and with an advertising budget he can and did make use of it. I made the clothes for Denzel in american Gangster. Right now someone is saying he made the clothes. In this case I do not think he paid for this privilege!!

When Skyfall came out I was making clothes for someone at Neiman Marcus. He said that they sold out of Tom Fords clothes faster than they could get them in. So, in a commercial world, and the movies are commercial, this "pay to produce and advertise" clearly works

Leonard
 
#22 ·
I saw the movie on saturday with my wife a three of our children. The movie, I thought, was great.

Personally, I did not like his clothes. I also did not think they fit. But in this day and age it's about money, not necessarily integrity.

I made all the clothes for Wolf of wall Street. the New York Post ran a photograph of Dicaprio in one of my suit saying " A Wolf in Armani Clothing". Armani paid for this privilege, and with an advertising budget he can and did make use of it. I made the clothes for Denzel in american Gangster. Right now someone is saying he made the clothes. In this case I do not think he paid for this privilege!!

When Skyfall came out I was making clothes for someone at Neiman Marcus. He said that they sold out of Tom Fords clothes faster than they could get them in. So, in a commercial world, and the movies are commercial, this "pay to produce and advertise" clearly works

Leonard
That sets up for a hypothesis, that the "too" tight fitting suits on Daniel Craig are with intent, and not just some stylistic interpretation gone awry. The intent is simply to sell Tom Ford suits. So a man of a certain age (or the SO that shops for him) says, "I want to look like Daniel Craig does in Skyfall/Spectre/whatever". They head to NM, where they get to choose from Tom Ford OTR, which is already slim-fitting to start. Well, no show of hands, but I'd venture that the vast majority of non-superstar actors (ie the rest of us) don't have Daniel Craig's physique, so when Mr. Investment Banker or Venture Capitalist puts on the OTR Tom Ford...voila! you also can have a too-tight suit, just like James Bond! Just a thought.