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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a jacket purchased a few years ago from Zegna. I bought it in a large upscale department store (Canadian equivalent of Saks). It’s a very nice angora wool; however, the jacket didn’t come with a lining. Is this normal? Do brands like Zegna sell jackets expecting the customer to add linings later? Seemed a little strange to me.

Thanks for any pointers.
 

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Unlined jackets are nice to have in order to keep cool in summer/early autumn. It's a deliberate design choice. You can get 1/4 lined, 1/2 lined and even 3/4 lined variants too.

Plus, makers get to show off how fancy their internal finishing is. ;)
 

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Without lining? Yes! But does it have canvas?

Thanks for this post!

I'm designing an evening wear jacket that's casual, soft, yet elegant. Think a cross between a sport jacket and a smoking jacket. The material is dark lustrous silk velvet with large, brushed stainless steel caps. This is bespoke made.
I'm toying with the idea of making it without canvas and unlined. This will make it both lighter and also less stiff, more shirt-like. An alternative would be to have it lined but without canvas.
I understand that your jacket is made of fine wool. I wonder - does it have canvas of some sort to stiffen it?

Will appreciate all of your comments and thoughts.
 

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I'm designing an evening wear jacket that's casual, soft, yet elegant. Think a cross between a sport jacket and a smoking jacket. The material is dark lustrous silk velvet with large, brushed stainless steel caps. This is bespoke made.
That definately would not fly as a sport jacket, and I would definately not wear that out as one. I'd go unlined though as it is houseware and unless your house is cold, a unlined jacket will be light and feel like you aren't wearing much.

If you smoke cigars though and plan to use it as an actual smoking jacket, I would add a lining and go ventless.
 

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I have a jacket purchased a few years ago from Zegna. I bought it in a large upscale department store (Canadian equivalent of Saks). It's a very nice angora wool; however, the jacket didn't come with a lining. Is this normal? Do brands like Zegna sell jackets expecting the customer to add linings later? Seemed a little strange to me.

Thanks for any pointers.
OK, what is the Canadian equivalent of Saks?
 

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Some jackets are sewn as precisely as a shirt, and the absence of lining (done correctly) is actually a much harder garment to construct. Google D'Avenza unlined blazer. This jacket is made of superfine cashmere and is unlined. In the case of this quality, you are paying for what is not there more so than vice versa.
 

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Cut a few threads on a lined jacket and look at the internal finishing and than contrast that to a top mfgs unlined jacket.

You will see that much more work went into the unlined jacket's finish.

Lining can cover up all sorts of ills.

Perry
 

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... the jacket didn't come with a lining. Is this normal? Do brands like Zegna sell jackets expecting the customer to add linings later?
I rarely see unlined jackets these days. They are made for warmer weather, in fact hot weather. If you lived more south they might be practical, but without a lining, a jacket is too cold to wear outside alone in all but 3 months of the year.

I'm 200 miles south of you, and I have no unlined jackets. If I lived in LA I would try to have half my wardrobe unlined, if I lived in Florida I would have everything unlined.
 

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Until I took this picture I thought this jacket was completely unlined, but it does have sleeve lining, but no canvas, no lapel padding, just the wool for the jacket and finished. It wears like a sweater and at considerably less cost than my Kiton's.

As it is navy, I hope the details show:


Perry
 

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I have a completely unconstructed RTW jacket (shirt jacket, maybe? it has doubled over fabric in the front with fusing in the lapels, but nowhere else) and the only place I miss the lining is in the sleeves (it's harder to slip your arms through).

I definitely like the style, though I'm not sure where I'd go to get another one made.
 

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Why use a lining for warmth when one can specify an unlined garment in a warmer-wearing fabric? Unlined Fresco in the summer, and unlined flannel in the winter for example. I like the finish of unlined garments and choose to specify such on my suits.
 
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