Men's Clothing Forums banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How long should a suit jacket be?

I thought the general rule was: Let arms to the side, cuff your hands at the middle finger joints, and that is where the jacket should fall.

Is this correct?

It just seems that wherever I look suits are modeled much much shorter than that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,773 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,396 Posts
How long should a suit jacket be?

I thought the general rule was: Let arms to the side, cuff your hands at the middle finger joints, and that is where the jacket should fall.

Is this correct?

It just seems that wherever I look suits are modeled much much shorter than that.
You are correct. The problem is that trends tend to change. Sportcoats are now shorter which is a new trend. They are also snugger. The problem is that unless you are a young slender guy it looks like you are wearing your son's coat. I think that you should stick to the general rule. If you like trendy suits and sportcoats then have a little fun and go alittle shorter. I don't.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,538 Posts
I use the "first joint curl" rule, generally, but the real test, as has been noted, is whether the skirt covers the rear completely. Body conformance, variable arm length, and posture have a lot to do with what test you can use and how the coat will fall in the back. You need someone objective to tell you that, not some eager sales rep trying to reach a sales quota to break into the commission range.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Trends be damned; don't fall victim to the Thom Browne effect. Trendy, "modern" jackets that don't cover your butt look ridiculous -- as if you're wearing something that you've obviously grown out of. The effect is to make you look like a child who's playing dress-up. Same thing with trendy trouser legs that stop at the upper ankle.

I'll admit to liking a jacket a bit shorter than is considered traditional. But you've still got to cover your ass, as it were.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,520 Posts
I use the "first joint curl" rule, generally, but the real test, as has been noted, is whether the skirt covers the rear completely. Body conformance, variable arm length, and posture have a lot to do with what test you can use and how the coat will fall in the back. You need someone objective to tell you that, not some eager sales rep trying to reach a sales quota to break into the commission range.
I agree with this modification to the general rule, arm length is a factor but what's easy is to figure out where the point at which your rear-end is covered coincides with your hands and finger joints (add your own "cant find your a$$ with both hands and a hunting dog" joke here).

I have long legs and short arms so its not unusual if I get the length right but I can only curl my fingers part way around the end of the jacket. I need a mirror as much as "the test" to determine if its good or not but I also think its one of the more forgiving measurements a jacket has. Things like collar width and arm length need to be precise to a half inch or less to look really fit, A jacket's length could be half an inch or a bit more "too long" and I dont think I would really care much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,813 Posts
Too short and it will make your butt look larger or more prominent if you have one, or it could make you look like you are wearing thrift clothes. The joint rule is good, but it could also depend on your anatomy--some people have longer arms, lower crotch, etc.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
1,738 Posts
As has been stated by a number of the responders, covering one's seat is the correct rule. If you choose to make it a little longer, that is personal taste. If you think about it, you could have three men who are the same height- their respective sleeve lengths are 32", 34", and 36". This illustrates why the so called "rule of thumb" or "cupped hands" doesn't work.
Paul Winston
Winston Tailors
www.chipp2.com
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top