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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello,

Don't mind the vest/tie/shirt - just wanted to add thickness when putting the jacket on. I think the waist needs to be let out but I'm not sure if there is any material there to let out. Help!

EDIT: As a man with acute observational skills, as assumption has occurred - the shoulders and waist are too tight. For the waist, a two inch "let out" would be suitable however I don't feel that much fabric at the seams.
 

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OP--In the images I see, you are wearing nothing underneath the jacket except a v-neck undershirt--and the jacket still looks much too tight.

A suit--even on a slender fellow like you--is not supposed to fit like a second skin. (The only thing that should fit like your skin is your skin.)

Go for a suit that flatters your trim physique but which isn't tight and restrictive. The suit should follow the contours of your body, of course, but in an easy, fluid manner. It should feel comfortable not only when you are standing still but also as you are moving about for hours at a time. You need to be in command of your suit every moment that you are wearing it. The suit in the photos you posted is a straitjacket; it's bossing you around.

I don't know if the waist can be let out--it depends on how much extra fabric is folded along the inside of the seams. Even if it could be let out, the rest of the suit would still look painfully tight and skinny.

When you are wearing a dress shirt under the jacket, and walking around and moving your arms, are you thinking, "Wow! This suit feels good! Really comfortable!" Or are you thinking, "Kind of restrictive. Oh, well, I guess this is how a suit is supposed to feel."

I think a man in a suit should give off an aura of comfortable, confident nonchalance. The thing is, if a man's suit is tooooooo slim, he looks like he's thinking, "I wonder how much longer I can hold my breath. And I hope I don't drop my pen; if I bend down, the seat of my trousers will split open."

If, when you move about, the suit truly feels good everywhere but the waist--and if the waist can be let out--then keep it if you REALLY love it. Warning: be sure that you don't gain an ounce.

Edit: I see that Jack McCullough has just beat me to it. He and I are on the same wavelength. I have a feeling the wavelength will get a lot more crowded. Ouch! Dang it, Jack! Watch where you put your elbow!
 

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Good news: hello, welcome to the forum. Your pilot today is Uncle Shaver. We are currently flying at 70,000 feet.

Bad news: your *ahem* 'acute observational skills' may require an upgrade.

On a positive note - get a shave.
 

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The suit is 2 or 3 sizes too small.

Without wishing to castigate the OP in any way, the root of the problem is a lack of familiarity with wearing tailored clothing, and how tailored clothing should fit. Quite naturally, such gentlemen turn to the images they see around them for guidance, notably ads, and the ads depict ludicrous dreck. And the poor man gets it home, tries it on, and with native good sense realizes he looks like 10 pounds in a 5 pound bag. In a word, ludicrous.

Painful, and counter intuitive as the process is, there's no substitute for taking the time to learn how tailored clothing should fit, before going out and buying it.

Some clothes that fit -









 

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It's too tight, but that looks fixable. As far as too short, that's the modern style which many on here dislike. I find it objectionable on men not built to pull it off (slim but comparatively wide shoulders).

Thing is, you ARE built to pull it off. As long as you understand that suit will go out of style at some point, screw it, just have the jacket let out a bit, have the pants hemmed to a quarter break, wear it with a dress shirt having a smaller collar (JCrew Ludlow comes to mind), pair with a skinny tie (2.5in or so), and until the trend dies, you'll look good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The suit is 2 or 3 sizes too small.

Without wishing to castigate the OP in any way, the root of the problem is a lack of familiarity with wearing tailored clothing, and how tailored clothing should fit. Quite naturally, such gentlemen turn to the images they see around them for guidance, notably ads, and the ads depict ludicrous dreck. And the poor man gets it home, tries it on, and with native good sense realizes he looks like 10 pounds in a 5 pound bag. In a word, ludicrous.

Painful, and counter intuitive as the process is, there's no substitute for taking the time to learn how tailored clothing should fit, before going out and buying it.

Some clothes that fit -









Beautiful.
 

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and until the trend dies, you'll look good.
But will he actually feel good? Certainly he should look good, but I am equally concerned that he feel comfortable inside the suit.

I agree that because the OP is young and trim, he can get away with a markedly slim suit. Life is very forgiving to the young and slender. (Come to think of it, it can also be mighty forgiving to the old, paunchy, and rich. Just ask any sexy, gorgeous 24-year-old woman.) Still, the suit in the OP's photos is verging on the sausage-casing look, which flatters nobody.

Perhaps a tailor could fiddle with the suit until it looks and feels okay. However, it would be easier--and make more sense--to return the suit and keep on looking. Frustrating in the short-term, sensible in the long-term.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Jesus titty f*cking Christ.
lol

I admit my expertise is much lacking to bramble on this forum, however I appreciate the skilled analysis provided. I immediately took that thing back. After scouring local and web sources for around 40 hours or so, I'm left hopeless and hesitating to dismiss the idea that a suitable garment can be had for under $1000.
 

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lol

I admit my expertise is much lacking to bramble on this forum, however I appreciate the skilled analysis provided. I immediately took that thing back. After scouring local and web sources for around 40 hours or so, I'm left hopeless and hesitating to dismiss the idea that a suitable garment can be had for under $1000.
The best fitting jacket I own cost just under £100 straight off the rack and a tenner to take a quarter of an inch off the sleeves.

When one requires value then patience is essential.
 

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lol

I admit my expertise is much lacking to bramble on this forum, however I appreciate the skilled analysis provided. I immediately took that thing back. After scouring local and web sources for around 40 hours or so, I'm left hopeless and hesitating to dismiss the idea that a suitable garment can be had for under $1000.
I've been out of the suit market forever. And upon reading this went out and attempted to find some ready sources for you, and I'm left with same conclusion. It's hard to find decent stuff at a reasonable prices sold by competent professionals. I was going to suggest Brooks, but upon checking there found your price estimate accurate, and as I already new, their stuff not that great anyway, which combined with alarming reports of ineptitude by some of their sales people yields no confidence at all.

There used to be decent men's shops around, they're mostly gone, and most remaining can't get reliable merchandise anymore, but you might want to look and ask around for some older, long-established such firms, and see if anything presents itself. Other than that, Frere Shaver's exhortation of patience seems to be in order.

Edit: This is a Hail Mary. O'Connell's is a little known national treasure. They are an old fashioned men's store. Large by traditional standards, they're virtually microscopic by comparison to national chains. The major problem with them for you is they sell traditional (I.e., undarted, not very shapely.) suits that are the antithesis of what you appear to prefer. But within that genre they sell only quality, sold by highly knowledgeable professionals at full, but not marked up retail prices. With your build you can look good in any competently made and fitted clothing, and this includes what they sell.

But whether you'd want to wear their style, only you can consider. Of course, if you could manage a trip in person, that would be ideal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The best fitting jacket I own cost just under £100 straight off the rack and a tenner to take a quarter of an inch of the sleeves.

When one requires value then patience is essential.
Interesting, my hope is resolved.
I've been out of the suit market forever. And upon reading this went out and attempted to find some ready sources for you, and I'm left with same conclusion. It's hard to find decent stuff at a reasonable prices sold by competent professionals. I was going to suggest Brooks, but upon checking there found your price estimate accurate, and as I already new, their stuff not that great anyway, which combined with alarming reports of ineptitude by some of their sales people yields no confidence at all.

There used to be decent men's shops around, they're mostly gone, and most remaining can't get reliable merchandise anymore, but you might want to look and ask around for some older, long-established such firms, and see if anything presents itself. Other than that, Frere Shaver's exhortation of patience seems to be in order.

Edit: This is a Hail Mary. O'Connell's is a little known national treasure. They are an old fashioned men's store. Large by traditional standards, they're virtually microscopic by comparison to national chains. The major problem with them for you is they sell traditional (I.e., undarted, not very shapely.) suits that are the antithesis of what you appear to prefer. But within that genre they sell only quality, sold by highly knowledgeable professionals at full, but not marked up retail prices. With your build you can look good in any competently made and fitted clothing, and this includes what they sell.

But whether you'd want to wear their style, only you can consider. Of course, if you could manage a trip in person, that would be ideal.
At least, a softer wool with an acceptable fit would do. As inexperienced as I am, my tastes vary. There are a couple of custom clothiers around here in the Metro Detroit area so I may have to resort to their consult. I recognize the O'connell name from another thread but will have to check back to their website to get more of a gist. I personally like the look of Mr. Greenway on the right here.
Trousers Plant Black Coat Standing
 

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I've been out of the suit market forever. And upon reading this went out and attempted to find some ready sources for you, and I'm left with same conclusion. It's hard to find decent stuff at a reasonable prices sold by competent professionals. I was going to suggest Brooks, but upon checking there found your price estimate accurate, and as I already new, their stuff not that great anyway, which combined with alarming reports of ineptitude by some of their sales people yields no confidence at all.

There used to be decent men's shops around, they're mostly gone, and most remaining can't get reliable merchandise anymore, but you might want to look and ask around for some older, long-established such firms, and see if anything presents itself. Other than that, Frere Shaver's exhortation of patience seems to be in order.

Edit: This is a Hail Mary. O'Connell's is a little known national treasure. They are an old fashioned men's store. Large by traditional standards, they're virtually microscopic by comparison to national chains. The major problem with them for you is they sell traditional (I.e., undarted, not very shapely.) suits that are the antithesis of what you appear to prefer. But within that genre they sell only quality, sold by highly knowledgeable professionals at full, but not marked up retail prices. With your build you can look good in any competently made and fitted clothing, and this includes what they sell.

But whether you'd want to wear their style, only you can consider. Of course, if you could manage a trip in person, that would be ideal.
Presumably the goblin that occupies your technology auto corrected your spelling. It is not Frere Shaver rather it is Führer Shaver.
 

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Interesting, my hope is resolved. Here's a style question:

At least, a softer wool with an acceptable fit would do. As inexperienced as I am, my tastes vary. I personally like the look of Mr. Greenway on the right here. View attachment 22441
Me too. This is likely from the late 19th, early 20th Century, and you can virtually assume that the suit is bespoke, as that was the norm for the more prosperous at the time. Clothing that fit, in a moderate cut. Details were much more varied and personal idiosyncrasies pampered.
 

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lol

I admit my expertise is much lacking to bramble on this forum, however I appreciate the skilled analysis provided. I immediately took that thing back. After scouring local and web sources for around 40 hours or so, I'm left hopeless and hesitating to dismiss the idea that a suitable garment can be had for under $1000.
No need to be negative, and for that matter, no need to spend ~ $1000 to get a decent suit. You should look at the significant positive; as a young (relative to many of us) slim guy you have the most options out there. This suit just happened not to work, but dang, there are so many options out there for someone built like you.

First, why didn't that suit work? Many comments will say the jacket it too short; IMO that choice is up to you. Trendy is shorter, for better or worse. But my critique is that the waist suppression (I thought it was already altered, 'cause that's nearly the most waist suppression I've seen with an OTR jacket) is really centered lower than your natural waist (the jacket's narrow point is really almost at the top of your hip), so the end result are those horizontal odd wrinkles along the back, and the opening up of the side vents (should lay flat). Given your build if the waist suppression was located correctly that jacket would have worked for you, and the rest of us would be left slightly jealous!

But alas, that wasn't the case, and I'm glad you returned it. My suggestion would be, if not in too much a hurry, to sale shop. You probably easily fit a J Crew Ludlow cut, and equally likely the Brooks Fitzgerald cut. Another potential option would be to troll the aisles at a Nordstrom Rack. There exist plenty of options in those locations that would be easily < $1k, including alterations. But leave the waist suppression for your tailor, not the manufacturer.
 

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This has been a quirky thread. I like when a thread begins in an ordinary way, but then starts zigging and zagging. I've just written the following lyrics in an attempt to capture the flavor (and story arc) of this interesting and unpredictable thread. I hope you enjoy them.

SKINNY SUIT
(Sung to the tune of "Cabaret")

My style's been dreary all of my life.
Time for a swift re-boot.
I bought a skinny suit, good men.
Critique my skinny suit.

After your dinner, sit down in your den.
Be honest please; don't be mute.
I bought a skinny suit, good men.
Critique my skinny suit.

Look at the front.
Look at the back.
Look at the pants--start criticizing.
Don't hold back--I need advising.

My body's slender; that's simple to see.
I'm far from some Ice-Age brute.
I bought a skinny suit, good men.
Critique my skinny suit.

Downtown I met a nice young man named Melvin.
He sells menswear right across from lululemon
At a store called "Young and Gaunt"--perhaps you know it.
He promised that he'd put me in the perfect outfit.

Mel picked out something he thought would become me.
He assured me alterations would be free.
Then he said to me, "It fits you like a sheath!"
I really liked it, although I couldn't breathe.

My skills of observation are acute.
Still, I'm looking for opinions more astute.

My style's been dreary all of my life.
Time for a swift re-boot.
I bought a skinny suit, good men.
Critique my skinny suit.

I've posted pics--Ha!
I've posted pics.
On second thought the shoulders bug me.
What say you? Did Melvin mug me?

I might return it, go back to square one.
It looks like I'm far from done.
I bought a skinny suit, good men--
It's truly a skinny suit, good men--
'Cause I love

A skinny

Suit!!!!!!!!
 
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