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Hello again,

I have a Hickey Freeman suit that is about 15 months old made from a Super 120s cloth. The cloth seems pretty fine (as in thin) to me. I am now noticing that it has quite a lot of wrinkeling along the stiching at the pocket flaps and below the breast pocket. I don't know how long they have been there because I never would have noticed it had I not started reading this forum. So I'm trying to figure out what happened. I guess that either the suit is poorly made, that these things result from dry cleaning, or that I should expect this kind of thing with thinner fabrics. What do you guys think.

Thanks, Charles
 

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I am reluctant to comment upon that which I cannot see, along without knowing what HF model. Especially as this thread is almost 10 years old.
 

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Hello again,

I have a Hickey Freeman suit that is about 15 months old made from a Super 120s cloth. The cloth seems pretty fine (as in thin) to me. I am now noticing that it has quite a lot of wrinkeling along the stiching at the pocket flaps and below the breast pocket. I don't know how long they have been there because I never would have noticed it had I not started reading this forum. So I'm trying to figure out what happened. I guess that either the suit is poorly made, that these things result from dry cleaning, or that I should expect this kind of thing with thinner fabrics. What do you guys think.

Thanks, Charles
One of the reason this happens is when too much steam is directed at the seam causing it to shrink the thread thereby causing puckering of the fabric. Notorious at pocket jetting, breast pocket and sleeve head. Unless that wrinkling was there when the suit was new chances are it occurred during cleaning. It's a Hickey Freeman and I'm guessing mainline it would not be of poor quality.With thinner fabrics that puckering could be more pronounced. How often have you had it dry cleaned.
 

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My mum used to tell me this is because the seam is tightly sewn. A good hand-sewn seam has the least probability of seeing this. Seams sewn by machines and by not-so-good tailors can experience this (they actually all do).

Basically, the thread shrank.
 
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