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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking to buy a suede chukka boot in a dark brown, but I'm having a terrible time finding one. Browsing through Pediwear and Skoak turns up "out of stock" on my size. With my CJ-made Peals and a pair of Sanders a better fit than my Carminas, I think the English makers fit my foot shape better.

So I found a pair of Cheaney's at Herring that fit my criteria. I've never owned a suede shoe before. Are there any English makers known for their suede or any to avoid? I don't have a favorite brand (yet) so I don't care if it's CJ, AS, etc. If I'm dropping $400+, I just want a high quality shoe!

https://www.herringshoes.co.uk/cheaney/jackie-iii-rubber_rubber-soled-chukka-boots/pony-suede

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English makers don't all fit the same. Fit is a function of how well the shape and volume of the last approximates the shape and volume of your foot. English makers - like Spanish, Italian and Romanian makers - use different lasts among their various models precisely because their customers have different shaped feet.

Just because two specific English-made shoes fit you well doesn't mean that they all will. Just because 1 single pair of Carmina fit you less well doesn't mean that they all will. Last time I checked, Carmina had about 26 different lasts. Understanding what specific lasts from various makers work well for you is step one for successful shoe shopping going forward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, that was probably an over generalization. I have tried on 3-4 Carmina lasts and only 1 had a decent fit. I’ve tried 3 English lasts so far and all had good fits. Plus I’ve had a nice running email exchange with Pediwear about various lasts given the ones I’ve tried so far. So I have some comfort building off that English foundation.


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I am looking to buy a suede chukka boot in a dark brown, but I'm having a terrible time finding one. Browsing through Pediwear and Skoak turns up "out of stock" on my size. With my CJ-made Peals and a pair of Sanders a better fit than my Carminas, I think the English makers fit my foot shape better.

So I found a pair of Cheaney's at Herring that fit my criteria. I've never owned a suede shoe before. Are there any English makers known for their suede or any to avoid? I don't have a favorite brand (yet) so I don't care if it's CJ, AS, etc. If I'm dropping $400+, I just want a high quality shoe!

https://www.herringshoes.co.uk/cheaney/jackie-iii-rubber_rubber-soled-chukka-boots/pony-suede

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I'm sorry I can't offer more options regarding various English makers that satisfy your criteria, but I can comment on the Cheaney chukka. And as it happens I have 4 pair of Sanders which fit me comfortably, so you can consider my remarks in relation to that. I own Cheaney's Jackie III from Herring in grain leather. Another member asked me for my experience with it, and this is what I wrote -

"I recommend them highly. The quality, fit and finishing are all very good. I ordered from Herring. I placed the order on a Monday, and received it that Friday. By far the fastest international service I've ever received.

My personal preference in footwear is for a more traditionally shaped shoe or boot with a shorter vamp and broader, rounded toe. The 125 last that these are made on is slightly more elongated and tapered than what I've typically purchased, but it's not excessive, and I like it very well. They look surprisingly elegant, particularly with their very narrow waist and lovely patinanation.

I've generally had good luck with the fit of Chukkas and these are among the more comfortable of that variety. When I was wearing them yesterday I again reflected that they may be my most comfortable footwear."

The only thing I would add as emphasis is that the boot's shape is more elegant than the photos suggest. I very much like Sargent's conventional round lasts, but these appear more svelte. This is evidently characteristic of Cheaney's 125 last. It certainly doesn't have a negative effect on comfort, but if you compare them to Sargent's it's more contemporary.

The only other thing I would mention is that it looks like the Pound is getting stronger, or the dollar weaker, their cost has risen about $30 in several months.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm sorry I can't offer more options regarding various English makers that satisfy your criteria, but I can comment on the Cheaney chukka. And as it happens I have 4 pair of Sanders which fit me comfortably, so you can consider my remarks in relation to that. I own Cheaney's Jackie III from Herring in grain leather. Another member asked me for my experience with it, and this is what I wrote -

"I recommend them highly. The quality, fit and finishing are all very good. I ordered from Herring. I placed the order on a Monday, and received it that Friday. By far the fastest international service I've ever received.

My personal preference in footwear is for a more traditionally shaped shoe or boot with a shorter vamp and broader, rounded toe. The 125 last that these are made on is slightly more elongated and tapered than what I've typically purchased, but it's not excessive, and I like it very well. They look surprisingly elegant, particularly with their very narrow waist and lovely patinanation.

I've generally had good luck with the fit of Chukkas and these are among the more comfortable of that variety. When I was wearing them yesterday I again reflected that they may be my most comfortable footwear."

The only thing I would add as emphasis is that the boot's shape is more elegant than the photos suggest. I very much like Sargent's conventional round lasts, but these appear more svelte. This is evidently characteristic of Cheaney's 125 last. It certainly doesn't have a negative effect on comfort, but if you compare them to Sargent's it's more contemporary.

The only other thing I would mention is that it looks like the Pound is getting stronger, or the dollar weaker, their cost has risen about $30 in several months.
Thanks for the detailed reply. Yeah the pound is killing me. The boots price has gone up $20 the past two weeks. Oof.

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If you go to the Carmina website and highlight Carmina you see the icon about lasts. Go there and you can figure out which last may fit you best. Moreover, you can email them and tell them what fits and they will give you some advice.
Most of the english makers can give you some advice if they know what shoe and last fit you now. Granted if you try to buy Yohei Fukuda this way he will ask what Lobb last fits you best because that's his comps (2000 dollar shoes.) I am thinking if you know what your CJ peal last is that may be most helpful when reaching out to other manufacturers in the 400 dollar range. C and J does have a pretty complete "Last guide" on their website.
 

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Pediwear will get you any variety of the Cheaney footwear they carry, not just the particular colours/leathers you see on their site. I own two pairs of their Jackie III, including Maracca suede (currently on sale for £204 from Cheaney, which is a superb value for money), and can only echo Flanderian's recommendation. While initially I had some doubts due to the elongation, I swiftly fell in love with how they look and they are indeed also among the most comfortable footwear I own.

That said I also own a pair of Chilterns by Crockett & Jones and they probably pip the Jackies to the post. They're about identical in terms of comfort, but the suede is a bit thicker and more luxurious. They're also only £15 more expensive, so I believe those would be my first choice if I could have only a single pair and it had to be dark brown.

Another superb chukka is Heschung's Genet, currently in the sale at Pediwear at a price of £315. The style is quite different to the previous two, but if you like the look of the rugged Norwegian welt (and would appreciate the added water resistance it provides) I can assure you that the quality is superb. Easily on par with C&J's Chiltern.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pediwear will get you any variety of the Cheaney footwear they carry, not just the particular colours/leathers you see on their site. I own two pairs of their Jackie III, including Maracca suede (currently on sale for £204 from Cheaney, which is a superb value for money), and can only echo Flanderian's recommendation. While initially I had some doubts due to the elongation, I swiftly fell in love with how they look and they are indeed also among the most comfortable footwear I own.

That said I also own a pair of Chilterns by Crockett & Jones and they probably pip the Jackies to the post. They're about identical in terms of comfort, but the suede is a bit thicker and more luxurious. They're also only £15 more expensive, so I believe those would be my first choice if I could have only a single pair and it had to be dark brown.

Another superb chukka is Heschung's Genet, currently in the sale at Pediwear at a price of £315. The style is quite different to the previous two, but if you like the look of the rugged Norwegian welt (and would appreciate the added water resistance it provides) I can assure you that the quality is superb. Easily on par with C&J's Chiltern.
Thanks for the tip regarding Pediwear. I thought I was stuck to what I found in the site. I'll also check out the CJs and Heschungs.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I bought my first pair. I had to "settle" for Herring by Loake as C&Js and Cheaney's were sold out. I didn't want to wait a month or two.

I do have a question - how are these to fit around the ankles? Maybe since it's my first pair but I do notice them at the ankles. Are they supposed to be tied snug around the ankle like a normal dress shoe? I assume they'll soften up as I wear them?

Also, the left shoe "dents" in on the outside of the ankle. Is this a fit issue or just normal?



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I bought my first pair. I had to "settle" for Herring by Loake as C&Js and Cheaney's were sold out. I didn't want to wait a month or two.

I do have a question - how are these to fit around the ankles? Maybe since it's my first pair but I do notice them at the ankles. Are they supposed to be tied snug around the ankle like a normal dress shoe? I assume they'll soften up as I wear them?

Also, the left shoe "dents" in on the outside of the ankle. Is this a fit issue or just normal?



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1. My experience with my only pair of English chukkas is that the shaft is narrower where they tie than a typical American chukka. But mine are very comfortable. I would suggest tying them only as tightly as you require.

2. That's normal. I believe it's the product of the last shape.

I like your chukkas and think them handsome! May you long enjoy them!
 

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Handsome boot. Since it's your first time with a Chukka, you might be noticing them at the ankle more than a regular wearer. I wear mine all the time and after the first few minutes never notice or "feel" them at the ankle. Wear them on carpet in your home for a bit and see if that feeling doesn't go away (I bet it will). As to the "dent," quite normal as SG67 says.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I would suggest you treat them with Nanotech or the like. When they get a bit beat up they will clean up (try to use a suede cleaner) and then brush 'em up and retreat.
I picked up the tip from this board on Nanoprotector and treated them prior to wearing. I have them on today for the first time. They do take some getting used to, but I do like them.

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I think that is typical if not "normal." As my podiatrist has pointed out, chucka boots don't offer much support...
 

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I think that is typical if not "normal." As my podiatrist has pointed out, chucka boots don't offer much support...
Are your podiatrist's concerns focused on designs such as the Clark's Desert Boots, which are flexible enough to be able to be twisted almost like you are wringing them out, or are his/her concerns with the Chukka boot design in general? There are several Chukka designs in my collection that offer great bio-mechanical support to my feet. :icon_scratch:
 
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