Me too, now. Who is Frank Shattuck? Never mind, I just Googled him.
By canvas, here you mean the canvas of the breast plate which in practically all jackets with a modicum of structure extends up and beneath the shoulder pad. But canvas is stiff and often, when without a shoulder pad, a thin wad of batting is placed above the plate, not to give loft as a true pad would, but to ease over shoulder bumps and inseam allowances.He specifically showed that picture to me to show that his canvas extends into his shoulder and that he does not use a pad.
I have edited slightly the post you quote for clarity. Maybe reread. The breast plate almost always becomes part of the shoulder shape, else you'd have a nipple-level line where it stopped. Buy a thrift jacket and tear it apart and see this stuff. That was my tailoring school. My only one. I predate YouTube (which I consider cheating).The former I think, I didn't even know that the structure of the breast plate would extend up that far, I always thought it extended only to the chest.
How about paying two-bucks for a homely jacket that in no way could fit you, from a charity sale? You're not looking for Kiton, you're looking for Haggar. In the essentials they're all the same. Peek inside. You'll never leave.I'll take your word for it.
Something about buying a garment just to cut it up is offputting to me, but it makes sense if you want to learn about tailoring.
Yes. A strange one. Both jacket and who's wearing it. I differ from you on the fabric, looks like suiting. But I like a lot the back, a lot, lot.The jacket looks like the Duke of Norfolk met up with a 19th century frock coat, after a fashion. Maybe it's my aging eyes...I like the material though.
That's a good diagram Thnx for putting it up. The canvas of the breast plate, which here is called chest piece and fine on that, goes up usually only as far as the shoulder seam, thus covering the front half of the shoulder, and lightly tacked to the shoulder pad. The shoulder seam bisects the pad, half in front, half in back. Though this diagram does not includen a pad.Perhaps this is what @Peak and Pine meant? The canvas does look like it would extend over the shoulder in this diagram:
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Agree. Totally. Last night Delish and I did not discuss the actual coat, which I think is pretty awful in most respects.Speaking of the OPs original herringbone tweed jacket, I think the bladed look of the back is rather extreme for my taste. It is almost as Neapolitan as spalla camicia (which of course, this jacket does not have, it seems to be more like extreme rope shoulders). I would also prefer lapels that are a bit more tame, and not quite as triangular, if that's the right word. But that is Neapolitan too, I think. Just personal preference, no criticism offered or implied.