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Structure and canvassing.

4390 Views 46 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  215339
I'm not sure how I feel about the cut, but it's impressive and well done.

Surprisingly no padding in the shoulder, only canvassing, despite how straight the shoulder-line is.

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Me too, now. Who is Frank Shattuck? Never mind, I just Googled him.
...and I'm left curious. Some site posted a self-aggrandizing piece he wrote about himself, plus a :30 second video of him in a seemingly swell jacket, but all three buttons done up and he kept jumping around making boxer-type moves and jabs and the camera was set too low and the whole thing was off putting, did you see that one (gray flannel striped jacket)?

About your sleeves-off pic. That hollow space will be pulled down some when the weight of the sleeve is attached, or he may be planning on a pad to go in there. If neither of those then the shoulder seam should probably be tightened to lessen the hoop. This appears a from-scratch piece which I cannot do, nor want to, but on over half my jackets I have had to do what I just posited, especially when bringing a 90s shoulder into present day.
He specifically showed that picture to me to show that his canvas extends into his shoulder and that he does not use a pad.
By canvas, here you mean the canvas of the breast plate which in practically all jackets with a modicum of structure extends up and beneath the shoulder pad. But canvas is stiff and often, when without a shoulder pad, a thin wad of batting is placed above the plate, not to give loft as a true pad would, but to ease over shoulder bumps and inseam allowances.
The former I think, I didn't even know that the structure of the breast plate would extend up that far, I always thought it extended only to the chest.
I have edited slightly the post you quote for clarity. Maybe reread. The breast plate almost always becomes part of the shoulder shape, else you'd have a nipple-level line where it stopped. Buy a thrift jacket and tear it apart and see this stuff. That was my tailoring school. My only one. I predate YouTube (which I consider cheating).
In your first post where you showed the sleeveless side-view, you said this:

Surprisingly no padding in the shoulder, only canvassing, despite how straight the shoulder-line is.

Where did you think the canvas in the shoulder came from? You're forgiven. It's an extension of the breast plate.
I'll take your word for it.

Something about buying a garment just to cut it up is offputting to me, but it makes sense if you want to learn about tailoring.
How about paying two-bucks for a homely jacket that in no way could fit you, from a charity sale? You're not looking for Kiton, you're looking for Haggar. In the essentials they're all the same. Peek inside. You'll never leave.
You and I have racked up 17 posts here, whoa, time flies when you're sheltering in place, but gotta go feed the cows now, euphemisticly speaking, as in going to bed and I don't understand the euphemism either, I only get the dirty ones.
The jacket looks like the Duke of Norfolk met up with a 19th century frock coat, after a fashion. Maybe it's my aging eyes...I like the material though.
Yes. A strange one. Both jacket and who's wearing it. I differ from you on the fabric, looks like suiting. But I like a lot the back, a lot, lot.
Perhaps this is what @Peak and Pine meant? The canvas does look like it would extend over the shoulder in this diagram:

View attachment 42594
That's a good diagram Thnx for putting it up. The canvas of the breast plate, which here is called chest piece and fine on that, goes up usually only as far as the shoulder seam, thus covering the front half of the shoulder, and lightly tacked to the shoulder pad. The shoulder seam bisects the pad, half in front, half in back. Though this diagram does not includen a pad.
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Speaking of the OPs original herringbone tweed jacket, I think the bladed look of the back is rather extreme for my taste. It is almost as Neapolitan as spalla camicia (which of course, this jacket does not have, it seems to be more like extreme rope shoulders). I would also prefer lapels that are a bit more tame, and not quite as triangular, if that's the right word. But that is Neapolitan too, I think. Just personal preference, no criticism offered or implied.
Agree. Totally. Last night Delish and I did not discuss the actual coat, which I think is pretty awful in most respects.
I admire your interest in book binding. Something I hope to share, next winter. For now, am heading outside to fire up the dreaded chain saw to rid the side yard of a recently fallen apple tree (mentioned here a few nights ago, and now coupled with half a maple which blew down last night, very heavy winds here of late).
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