Structure and canvassing.
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I think this is a Mikel problem.
Gotcha. Do the images show up for you btw?
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Me too, now. Who is Frank Shattuck? Never mind, I just Googled him.
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...and I'm left curious. Some site posted a self-aggrandizing piece he wrote about himself, plus a :30 second video of him in a seemingly swell jacket, but all three buttons done up and he kept jumping around making boxer-type moves and jabs and the camera was set too low and the whole thing was off putting, did you see that one (gray flannel striped jacket)?
About your sleeves-off pic. That hollow space will be pulled down some when the weight of the sleeve is attached, or he may be planning on a pad to go in there. If neither of those then the shoulder seam should probably be tightened to lessen the hoop. This appears a from-scratch piece which I cannot do, nor want to, but on over half my jackets I have had to do what I just posited, especially when bringing a 90s shoulder into present day.
About your sleeves-off pic. That hollow space will be pulled down some when the weight of the sleeve is attached, or he may be planning on a pad to go in there. If neither of those then the shoulder seam should probably be tightened to lessen the hoop. This appears a from-scratch piece which I cannot do, nor want to, but on over half my jackets I have had to do what I just posited, especially when bringing a 90s shoulder into present day.
I haven't seen any of that, just an Anthony Bourdain video and his posts on styleforum, link?
He specifically showed that picture to me to show that his canvas extends into his shoulder and that he does not use a pad.
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Hahahaha, yeah Frank seems to be quite the character from what I've seen so far.
He is indeed a boxer, looks like he is trying to show off the action back jacket.
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By canvas, here you mean the canvas of the breast plate which in practically all jackets with a modicum of structure extends up and beneath the shoulder pad. But canvas is stiff and often, when without a shoulder pad, a thin wad of batting is placed above the plate, not to give loft as a true pad would, but to ease over shoulder bumps and inseam allowances.
The former I think, I didn't even know that the structure of the breast plate would extend up that far, I always thought it extended only to the chest.
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I have edited slightly the post you quote for clarity. Maybe reread. The breast plate almost always becomes part of the shoulder shape, else you'd have a nipple-level line where it stopped. Buy a thrift jacket and tear it apart and see this stuff. That was my tailoring school. My only one. I predate YouTube (which I consider cheating).
I'll take your word for it.
Something about buying a garment just to cut it up is offputting to me, but it makes sense if you want to learn about tailoring.
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In your first post where you showed the sleeveless side-view, you said this:
Surprisingly no padding in the shoulder, only canvassing, despite how straight the shoulder-line is.
Where did you think the canvas in the shoulder came from? You're forgiven. It's an extension of the breast plate.
Surprisingly no padding in the shoulder, only canvassing, despite how straight the shoulder-line is.
Where did you think the canvas in the shoulder came from? You're forgiven. It's an extension of the breast plate.
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How about paying two-bucks for a homely jacket that in no way could fit you, from a charity sale? You're not looking for Kiton, you're looking for Haggar. In the essentials they're all the same. Peek inside. You'll never leave.
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You and I have racked up 17 posts here, whoa, time flies when you're sheltering in place, but gotta go feed the cows now, euphemisticly speaking, as in going to bed and I don't understand the euphemism either, I only get the dirty ones.
Basically, till today, I had no idea shoulders even HAD canvassing that extended over the slope of a shoulder as well.
You got me curious, especially considering I mainly buy quarter-lined jackets these days. I will add that to my to-do-list for when this quarantine ends.
I don't know if you remember, but I have an olive cotton jacket with 0 structure, and it looks dumpy on me now. It only has fusible in the shoulder, and 0 canvassing period. Makes sense.
The other jacket I just bought that is half-canvassed and marketed as Neapolitan, spalla-camicia, also has canvassing into the shoulder. I was under the impression that these types of jackets had 0 structure, canvas, or padding in the shoulder line.
Hopefully I didn't damage anything rummaging around there, are these areas usually delicate?
Oh well, that's sometimes where the most fun discussions happen.
I'm going to repost this anyway as I feel impatient.
The jacket looks like the Duke of Norfolk met up with a 19th century frock coat, after a fashion. Maybe it's my aging eyes...I like the material though.
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