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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have just received a MTO suit from N&L in London. The color is navy with white stripes. The jacket has a single button, peak lapels, and slanted pockets. The more I look at the suit, the more I realize that the stripes are not aligned. This is especially the case for the collar at the back of the jacket (see picture). In addition, the stripes on the lapel are somewhat cut at the end of the lapel instead of being continuous (again, see picture). I think this is not right especially for a MTO suit! I need your advices before I can send it back to London. Thanks!



 

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I know for bespoke the Savile Row tailors do not like the lines to connect, this is especially the case when the lines from the front of the jacket meet the lines from the back at the shoulders.
To simplifier the answer, if the lines connect there is often a fit issue and the garment does not fit as well unless the tailors spend a lot more time working with it.

Do the lines from the front and back of the jacket connect together at the shoulder point?
 

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ToryBoy: They somewhat connect, but not 100%.
It's really hard to match up the stripes on the shoulder seam and this is not neccasary in a Savile Row suit.

To be honest though I would expect the stripe to if not match up then to have some kind of symetry in the places you have shown. There is no reason it shouldn't match at the collar and that asymetric lapel angers me to look at it.

Where did you get it and how much did you pay for it if you don't mind me asking?
 

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And you said MTO-- if you really meant MTO- that's lowest rung on the ladder. If you expect perfection in the fine details, you need to move up to bespoke. Even the middle tier, MTM, doesn't always handle all the samll details.
 

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Perhaps a tailor will weigh in, but this does not look too good to me. Maybe you can put a stop on the check...
 

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And you said MTO-- if you really meant MTO- that's lowest rung on the ladder. If you expect perfection in the fine details, you need to move up to bespoke. Even the middle tier, MTM, doesn't always handle all the samll details.
My 2 cents:

My RTW suits from BB, Southwick, and H-F--heck, from JAB--get the stripes balanced correctly across the two lapels and have them line up where the collar folds over and touches the upper back.

The OP has IMO been hosed by some seriously shoddy workmanship.

In his position, I'd send these photos to N&L and ask what they planned to do to make it right.

My sense is that means a new suit, since I don't see how basic "structural" mistakes like asymmetrical stripes on the lapels can be fixed.

My final thought is that I'd ask for that replacement suit in a solid, just so it can't be messed up like this again (I wouldn't trust them to get the stripe alignment correct after having seen this train wreck).

PS: The stripes are not supposed to line up along the shoulder seam, given the differences in width between the panels of fabric that are meeting there, not to mention the differences in contour of the front and back sides of the body. But alignment at the back of collar/upper back and balancing across the lapels are feasible and indeed de rigeur. And that aint no poisson d'avril.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you gentlemen for sharing your points of view on this issue. That is exactly what I thought. I have a BB MTO navy and white stripes, and everything balances perfectly. That's what triggered my reaction. I will try to have them redo the jacket. It is in fact a really nice suit except for this details. But if I am paying approximately 700 pounds for this, it better be better than a BB suit. Affaire a suivre!
 
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