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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Our venerable @upr_crust has with his immaculate taste and dress sparked an interest. I had been considering trying out the use of a collar pin and bar and have decided to give it a whirl. I know I can wear the pin with any shirt having a cooperative collar (non spread), but would like a few shirts that already have the eyelets in them as well for use with the bar. Does anyone know a good source for these? I found one shirt in a regular/fuller cut OTR in my size (17.5 37) and ordered it from Paul Frederick. I have no experience with the company but from researching past postings they are of reasonable quality and at or just bellow Charles Tyrwhitt. I know Brooks Brothers used to carry them about 5 years ago but cannot seem to find them currently on their website. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated gentleman. A sub $150 price point would be preferred and I am willing to do a MTM but was looking for most instant gratification (OTR) lol. Thank you fellas again for your time.
 

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It has been my experience that, for RTW eyelet collar shirts, the only consistent supplier of such shirts would be Paul Fredrick, whose shirts I've worn in the past, and they're acceptable, but not that great.

For myself, I've had a number of eyelet collar shirts made at Brooks Brothers for me, as I like both eyelet collars and French a.k.a. double cuffs, a combination rarer than hens' teeth in the RTW world, though at a price point a bit above your stated upper limit, Jgarner.

I will try to wear an eyelet collar shirt (MTM from BB) with my attire for tomorrow, so that you can see the results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It has been my experience that, for RTW eyelet collar shirts, the only consistent supplier of such shirts would be Paul Fredrick, whose shirts I've worn in the past, and they're acceptable, but not that great.

For myself, I've had a number of eyelet collar shirts made at Brooks Brothers for me, as I like both eyelet collars and French a.k.a. double cuffs, a combination rarer than hens' teeth in the RTW world, though at a price point a bit above your stated upper limit, Jgarner.

I will try to wear an eyelet collar shirt (MTM from BB) with my attire for tomorrow, so that you can see the results.
Thank you for the advice sir! I look forward to seeing the shirt. I too would like a shirt with double cuffs and a pin/eyelet collar. I was hoping for a contrast collar and cuff and possibly even venturing into the land of a club collar with eyelets for pinning. I would be fine spending more than my original stated price point for MTM as I understand it's reason for higher price and I would get everything I wanted with a better fit. So no trip to the tailor like most OTR shirts I buy.
 

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In the last 50 years, the only consistently reliable source for collars with eyelets I've known have been shirtmakers. And of course, with a good shirtmaker you can control all aspects of the collar such as placement of the eyelet in relation to size and shape of the collar. Prior to the '70's, they could be found a bit more easily, and were a staple option among Ivy shops.

Contrary to most advice on the issue, I've ruined collars using pins without eyelets due to stress dislodging the interlining of the collar. Plus eyelets allow the use of bars other than just pointed pins, some of which can be just the right thing for an ensemble. Popular during the '50's & '60's Ivy era of dress was a polished bar in gold or silver metal, the ends of which were small cubes, with one side having a threaded hole so that it can be detached and then screwed back on. Still a smart choice, IMHO.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
In the last 50 years, the only consistently reliable source for collars with eyelets I've known have been shirtmakers. And of course, with a good shirtmaker you can control all aspects of the collar such as placement of the eyelet in relation to size and shape of the collar. Prior to the '70's, they could be found a bit more easily, and were a staple option among Ivy shops.

Contrary to most advice on the issue, I've ruined collars using pins without eyelets due to stress dislodging the interlining of the collar. Plus eyelets allow the use of bars other just pointed pins, some of which can be just the right thing for an ensemble. Popular during the '50's & '60's Ivy era of dress was a polished bar in gold or silver metal, the ends of which were small cubes, with one side having a threaded hole so that it can be detached and then screwed back on. Still a smart choice, IMHO.

Your post along with Upr's prompted me to call both Brooks Brothers as well as my local men's store for details. It seems my local haberdashery works with a company called Individualized Shirts for most of their MTM. Anyone have experience with this company? They offer both collars I want with club and pin including the eyelets. Seems they have an up charge for my chest size at over 52" so depending on fabric would put me about $160-$200 a shirt.
Shoulder Dress shirt Sleeve T-shirt Gesture
 

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Your post along with Upr's prompted me to call both Brooks Brothers as well as my local men's store for details. It seems my local haberdashery works with a company called Individualized Shirts for most of their MTM. Anyone have experience with this company? They offer both collars I want with club and pin including the eyelets. Seems they have an up charge for my chest size at over 52" so depending on fabric would put me about $160-$200 a shirt. View attachment 21236
Sorry, I have no experience with them, but know the name. I think they've been around for quite a while. You also might want to do a search here, and elsewhere for their name to get recent experiences.

MTM shirts can be really good or really poor. As with all MTM, a critical factor is the level of experience of the individual you're working with at the retailer with the specific MTM program from which you're ordering. Their three main functions are being able to understand what you want, measuring you properly, and managing an ordering process that can be surprisingly complex.

Without intending any offense, you're obviously not resident in a major metropolitan area, so your choice won't be boundless. Though I've been out of the market for about 20 years, and while you might get better prices, they don't sound out of line for high quality fabric from a good MTM program.

I last used SGA Associates who I know operates a nationwide MTM program through retailers, though they don't promote it as heavily as some. I don't know if Skip is still active in the business, but when I dealt with them a fair bit of their production was private label for stores like SFA, and some production work for Polo and others, and they were just as happy to be doing that as MTM or bespoke.

I was blessed to be able to take advantage of a small bespoke shop they ran locally in NJ staffed by an individual who had learned their trade at his factory. The results were excellent.
 

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I reason one could convert a regular shirt to have collar pin eyelets. Simply punch the holes with a leather punch then basically sew a button hole. I don't see why it would not work except for the possibility of dislodging the interlining. Though immediately sewing up the edge might prevent that problem. Just a thought I had.
 

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Sorry, I have no experience with them, but know the name. I think they've been around for quite a while. You also might want to do a search here, and elsewhere for their name to get recent experiences.

MTM shirts can be really good or really poor. As with all MTM, a critical factor is the level of experience of the individual you're working with at the retailer with the specific MTM program from which you're ordering. Their three main functions are being able to understand what you want, measuring you properly, and managing an ordering process that can be surprisingly complex.

Without intending any offense, you're obviously not resident in a major metropolitan area, so your choice won't be boundless. Though I've been out of the market for about 20 years, and while you might get better prices, they don't sound out of line for high quality fabric from a good MTM program.

I last used SGA Associates who I know operates a nationwide MTM program through retailers, though they don't promote it as heavily as some. I don't know if Skip is still active in the business, but when I dealt with them a fair bit of their production was private label for stores like SFA, and some production work for Polo and others, and they were just as happy to be doing that as MTM or bespoke.

I was blessed to be able to take advantage of a small bespoke shop they ran locally in NJ staffed by an individual who had learned their trade at his factory. The results were excellent.
Edit: Should you have any interest in SGA, the link below is to their website. However, it's intended for the retailer. But they do have contact info, so if you wish, they might be able to suggest one if there's any in your area.

https://www.skipgambert.com/sga/about_us.html
 

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I reason one could convert a regular shirt to have collar pin eyelets. Simply punch the holes with a leather punch then basically sew a button hole. I don't see why it would not work except for the possibility of dislodging the interlining. Though immediately sewing up the edge might prevent that problem. Just a thought I had.
I would think you'd sew the buttonhole around the intended point first, then open it up. That would prevent dislodging the interlining
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Met with the owner of my local haberdashery. Gary is a very nice fellow and went ahead and ordered two shirts from Individualized. Went considerably over budget but such is life and I got everything I wanted.
Brown Product Rectangle Font Line

The bengal stripe I did with a club eyelet collar. Contrast cutaway french cuff and collar.

The blue oxford I splurged on a little and chose a nicer fabric quality. That one will be a pinpoint eyelet collar. Also with a contrasting cutaway french cuff and collar.

Avg shirt cost was $247 with monogramming, upgrades, and upcharge for my chest size. He is personal friends with the owner of my company so i felt compelled to throw some business his way.
 

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Met with the owner of my local haberdashery. Gary is a very nice fellow and went ahead and ordered two shirts from Individualized. Went considerably over budget but such is life and I got everything I wanted. View attachment 21284
The bengal stripe I did with a club eyelet collar. Contrast cutaway french cuff and collar.

The blue oxford I splurged on a little and chose a nicer fabric quality. That one will be a pinpoint eyelet collar. Also with a contrasting cutaway french cuff and collar.

Avg shirt cost was $247 with monogramming, upgrades, and upcharge for my chest size. He is personal friends with the owner of my company so i felt compelled to throw some business his way.
Those should be very handsome shirts! I expect you will enjoy them! :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Quite impressively both shirts arrived neatly packed in a box on my doorstep today. These were ahead of schedule by about two weeks. Now that they are here I am racking my brain with what tie to wear with the red striped shirt. Any advice? I was thinking brown or blue tie with a navy suit?
 

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Quite impressively both shirts arrived neatly packed in a box on my doorstep today. These were ahead of schedule by about two weeks. Now that they are here I am racking my brain with what tie to wear with the red striped shirt. Any advice? I was thinking brown or blue tie with a navy suit?
Congratulations on your purchase, and my advice for a tie to wear with the bengal stripe shirt would be a solid navy, as that bengal stripe is very bold. I would say that you can go wild with the texture of the tie - anything from satin to repp to grenadine.
 

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Congratulations on your purchase, and my advice for a tie to wear with the bengal stripe shirt would be a solid navy, as that bengal stripe is very bold. I would say that you can go wild with the texture of the tie - anything from satin to repp to grenadine.
+1!

Not with navy, but if you have a grey suit, a solid black tie, knit or grenadine would look very nice too.

Stripes this bold present challenges when accessorizing. Solids are a sure choice, and always look smart. If you introduce a patterned tie, you need to find an harmonious contrast. Always a low intensity pattern and colors, and one that is typically a much smaller or larger pattern than that of the shirt. Sometimes a small diffuse woven pin dot can look good, or in the opposite direction, a large diagonal block stripe in muted colors with stripes of the same size, and where each is about 2" wide.
 

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Quite impressively both shirts arrived neatly packed in a box on my doorstep today. These were ahead of schedule by about two weeks. Now that they are here I am racking my brain with what tie to wear with the red striped shirt. Any advice? I was thinking brown or blue tie with a navy suit?
Congrats - I have no recommendations to add to the previous two smart posts, but I would love to see some pictures of the shirts. With the tie and collar pin in place - they are going to look fantastic - enjoy.
 

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Quite impressively both shirts arrived neatly packed in a box on my doorstep today. These were ahead of schedule by about two weeks. Now that they are here I am racking my brain with what tie to wear with the red striped shirt. Any advice? I was thinking brown or blue tie with a navy suit?
Congrats on your purchase. I've been using Individualized Shirt Co since the mid 1980's. Never had any problem with their shirts.
 
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