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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I posted the following question on another popular sartorial site, but received little to no feedback. I was hoping the members on the AAAC forum might be a little more forthcoming.

I seek advice.

Some weeks ago I took receipt of a new shirt from a well known London shirtmaker. I have been wearing the garment on and off since, but only recently noticed a small hole, no larger than a pinhole in size, in and around the chest area. To me it looks like a fault in the fabric, but given the length of time since I purchased the item I am hesitant in contacting the shirtmaker to say as much.

In reality the hole remains invisible to all but those with the most discerning eye. Is there anything that can be done to reduce the chance of this hole getting worse?

Kind regards

JackRabbit
 

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I have seen this from time to time. Sometimes a pin actually gets stuck in the shirt if it was packaged that way. Usually nothing further will happen to the hole, but if yo are worried, I would take it back or maybe go to a Dry cleaners and see if they can fix it or a good tailor.
 

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You need to look at the hole under magnification--high enough power to see the individual threads. A pin hole may not have torn a thread, just pushed threads together. If you can see the threads, a fine needle can be used to reposition the threads across the hole. If a thread is broken, you might make it less noticeable by "adjusting" the adjacent threads. Or you could just ignore it. It's a pin hole, after all.
 

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Without actually seeing the hole, its hard to comment, but I suspect from your description it's unlikely to worsen.

I use security tags on clothing and equipment in my shop, admittedly sports clothing, and have not had any issues with the tag pins.
 

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Hello JackRabbit, and welcome to the forum.

Quite a predicament. Situations like this do make me feel uncomfortable.

How long exactly since you took collection of the shirt, if you don't mind me asking?
 

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Some options:

1. As mentioned, if the yarns of the cloth are not severed but only pushed apart, they may be teased back into alignment using a needle and high magnification.

2. If only one or two yarns are severed, but the cloth is very tightly woven (especially after it's been laundered) it may not fray or ravel significantly before the shirt reaches the end of its service life. This is a judgment call requiring some observation after each laundering.

3. If the cloth is more loosely woven, or several yarns are severed, you will need either to fix the yarn-ends in position to prevent further deterioration and/or make good the void.

4. If the hole is small enough not to bother you, but you need to fix the yarn-ends in position, you can do this with an adhesive. This is a very delicate operation, especially if the cloth is very finely woven. I've had best success on more opaque cloths with some body and at turned edges. Different adhesives affect the cloth differently. A light-gel cyanoacrylate (superglue gel) applied to the end of the severed yarn and its crossing yarn (work from the reverse) via a needle under high magnification will set quickly and hold up through most washings. You need to be quite careful not to let the glue wick too far into the cloth. The treated area will end up more translucent and stiffer than the surrounding cloth, though careful work will minimize this. Therefore this method unlikely to be satisfying on very fine, light-colored shirtings.

5. You can also get a lightweight iron-on patch fabric (one side bearing a heat-settable adhesive) and trim it to a millimeter or so larger than the pinhole. Apply from the reverse using a library tacking iron or a clothes iron (carefully) with a silicone release paper or other layer to keep the patch from moving under the iron. This solution will leave a more opaque area behind the hole, but may be less detectable when the shirt is worn unless the cloth is quite translucent. Such a small patch may be vulnerable to coming off during laundering.

6. There are, or at least were, places that would do "invisible" reweaving on shirts (I had it done in Dallas back in the early '80s on two or three that suffered cuts from commercial laundry equipment). This can be quite satisfactory, though it will leave a thicker area (thus more opaque) around the mend, and again works best on cloths with some body. I don't know whether the cost would now be prohibitive, or indeed whether reweavers will still work on shirtings.

As you can see, there are no perfect solutions, but you may find a good compromise among these methods if the flaw is noticeable or unstable enough to require repair and the shirt is valuable enough to you to warrant the attempt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hello JackRabbit, and welcome to the forum.

Quite a predicament. Situations like this do make me feel uncomfortable.

How long exactly since you took collection of the shirt, if you don't mind me asking?
Mr. Pipps,

I took delivery of the shirt about eight to twelve weeks ago. I am over four hours drive away from the shirtmaker, so popping it in for his opinion isn't a practical option.

Regards

JackRabbit
 

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Mr. Pipps,

I took delivery of the shirt about eight to twelve weeks ago. I am over four hours drive away from the shirtmaker, so popping it in for his opinion isn't a practical option.

Regards

JackRabbit
Call the man...and, if necessary, mail the shirt back for him to examine it and make whatever adjustments might be required. At the very least, this will save you a long drive! ;)
 

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It seems to me that you don't have much to bargain with.

The determining factors in how things might develop would be:
a) Whether you have been a long time customer; or
b) Whether he has been expecting you to make another order/s in the future?

Otherwise, after 8-12 weeks, a shirtmaker may be hesistant to take the shirt back for repair.

Have you considered investigating the services of a reweaver?
 

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Its possible that the hole is due to wash/drying. I have had this happen to some of my shirts....even when they are fairly new. If you attempt to take it back I dont think they would issue you a refund. Its always worth a try though. May get a store credit or something
 

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It seems to me that you don't have much to bargain with.

The determining factors in how things might develop would be:
a) Whether you have been a long time customer; or
b) Whether he has been expecting you to make another order/s in the future?

Otherwise, after 8-12 weeks, a shirtmaker may be hesistant to take the shirt back for repair.

Have you considered investigating the services of a reweaver?
I agree I can't see them taking it back unless they feel it will be unprofitable not to take it back.
 
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