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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone

I'm 6'2", skinny with long arms.

I recently bought a nice italian overcoat in 38 *long*, and just back from the tailors who is extending the sleeve by an extra inch!

I'm now in the market for a new trenchcoat.

My question is:

Am I best to buy a 'large' off the shelf trenchcoat, then have it taken in by a tailor, OR buy a 'medium' and have the sleeves extended?

I notice most trenchcoats are sold like this: small, medium and large. Which makes getting reasonable shape and long sleeves really hard.

This seems standard practice for trenchcoats, with the exception of
used Burberry trenchcoats, which apparently size according to chest and do offer 'long' length options.

Thanks!
 

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Hi everyone

I'm 6'2", skinny with long arms.

I recently bought a nice italian overcoat in 38 *long*, and just back from the tailors who is extending the sleeve by an extra inch!

I'm now in the market for a new trenchcoat.

My question is:

Am I best to buy a 'large' off the shelf trenchcoat, then have it taken in by a tailor, OR buy a 'medium' and have the sleeves extended?

I notice most trenchcoats are sold like this: small, medium and large. Which makes getting reasonable shape and long sleeves really hard.

This seems standard practice for trenchcoats, with the exception of
used Burberry trenchcoats, which apparently size according to chest and do offer 'long' length options.

Thanks!
You should buy one in a Tall size. I've got one Burberry and one Brooks trench coat, both are a Tall size. I bought them that way just because I preferred the extra length, but you actually need it.

If you're going to wear your coat over a suit or sport jacket it should be sized to fit a jacket with the same size. But I'd caution you about trying to buy one smaller. First, these coats always look better if they're ample, particularly if they're trench coats with a belt, and secondly, a slightly large one is OK over a tailored jacket, but one slightly too small will look like heck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Flanderian

I'm a 38L in suit jacket, so would the trenchcoat ideally be 38L too - right?

I checked BB and they don't do long in 38, only start offering that at 40 and beyond. Sigh.

I can't seem to get the trenchcoat page to load on Burberry's website, will try later on another device.

I've set up an alert on ebay though, a vintage Burberry might turn up?!

You should buy one in a Tall size. I've got one Burberry and one Brooks trench coat, both are a Tall size. I bought them that way just because I preferred the extra length, but you actually need it.

If you're going to wear your coat over a suit or sport jacket it should be sized to fit a jacket with the same size. But I'd caution you about trying to buy one smaller. First, these coats always look better if they're ample, particularly if they're trench coats with a belt, and secondly, a slightly large one is OK over a tailored jacket, but one slightly too small will look like heck.
 

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I'm very similarly shaped; 6'2", long arms, not quite as skinny (40L in suits).
I am at the point where if they don't offer it in a Tall size, I won't even consider it. I've given up too much over the years in sleeve length to make things work.
Sorry I can't offer much help on trench coats.
 

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Thanks Flanderian

I'm a 38L in suit jacket, so would the trenchcoat ideally be 38L too - right?

I checked BB and they don't do long in 38, only start offering that at 40 and beyond. Sigh.

I can't seem to get the trenchcoat page to load on Burberry's website, will try later on another device.

I've set up an alert on ebay though, a vintage Burberry might turn up?!
If everything is as it should be the jacket and coat size should be the same. But since there can be substantial differences among different makers/brands as to what a specific size is, plus likely having different cuts, it can't be stated as a certainty.

If you're a 38L I'd be sorely tempted to just get the 40L anyway for the extra room. But the only way to know, and also know your preference, is to try them on, and I'd recommend it. A good raincoat/trench coat can last a long time. It's worth the effort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys.

Which brings me on to sleeve length asthetics. I heard that the British and Americans prefer the sleeve to cover the shirt, whilst Italian's are fine with a bit of shirt cuff showing. Is this true?

There are some extremely short sleeve online, check out these:

Sleeve Gesture Collar Street fashion Overcoat
Dress shirt Sleeve Street fashion Beard Gesture


This one is pretty short:

Tire Car Product Wheel Smile


But I know that there are many blogs online which say it should certainly cover shirt sleeves, and start to encroach on your hand. Like this:

Outerwear Vertebrate Hat Plant Sun hat


What do you guys think looks best? Is it that high street stores use tall skinny models and their clothes don't fit, or is it a fashion thing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A trench coat is meant to protect you from the elements. The last picture is correct while all of the other ones are silly.
I agree! But, having looked the length and breadth of the internet, looks like no one makes 38 long trench coats off the rail. And, I'd probably need 38 extra long anyway! I saw an old 38L Burberry online, but it had sold. Is my size a dying breed?

Perhaps made to measure is the only option to get the desired sleeve length. Most trenchcoats are sold in standard small, medium and large sizes. Maybe a large would have long enough sleeves and I could take the body in.

I think trench coats don't have a lot of spare material for letting sleeves down from what I can tell.
 

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I'm 6'1", 150lbs and almost always wear a 40L, so I understand your issue and know yours is tougher as I used to occasionally buy a 39L but I never see them anymore as even 40L are getting rare.

My guess is a 40L might work for you as trench coats and overcoats don't need quite the exacting fit that a suit jacket does, but if the shoulders are big for you in the trench or overcoat, tailoring won't help. So, my first thought is try on the 40L from each brand you consider and, if the shoulders are okay, you can probably tailor your way to a decent result overall.

Of course, MTM is a great way to go, but it is very expensive. That said, I did an overcoat this way about seven years ago as I really wanted it to fit right and knew an overcoat would last a long time, thus, hopefully, justifying the expense. The coat still fits and looks great and, my guess, I have years and years of use left from it.

On the other end of the spectrum, you could try to find older models on Ebay and other sites - I've had some good success this way (got a great Pendleton overcoat last year this way), but it definitely takes patience (daily looking, checking all the details, asking the seller questions, etc.). The good news is there were more 38L, etc., in years gone buy, so more of these will pop up this way. And those older models tended to be cut with longer sleeves and longer overall length.

As to the sleeve length, I'm with the above posters who argue they should cover your shirt and suit coat sleeves and just a bit of the top of your hand. To me, this both makes sense functionally and looks "right" based on historical pictures. That said, the pictures you show of it not covering the "other" sleeves, looks, IMHO, very "fashiony-" and consistent with the shorter, tighter, slimmer aesthetic of today.

That's not my thing, as I try to go for timeless style and not of-the-moment or overly fashionable looks. Also, at your height and arm length, anytime something hits you short, it runs the risk of exaggerating your long arms or legs and can look more like a mistake than a choice (I have the same issue).

One last thought, I'd be very careful about buying an "alpha" sized garment as the chances of a "small" or "medium" being the correct size for you are slim - as they are for anyone, but even harder for you as you are (like me) a "long" so the "smalls" and "mediums" tend to be too short in the arms and body length while the "larges" tend to be too big in the body. That's the reason - in the good old days - they had not only numeric sizing but "short" and "long" versions as well - the human body comes in more than three or four fits.

Hope this helps a bit - good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Fading Fast - this is as reassuring as it is insightful. I'll continue the search and accept I may need to put up with more modern cuts until I find something better on eBay. A made to measure will need to wait for now, as the family has just expanded! Best wishes.

I'm 6'1", 150lbs and almost always wear a 40L, so I understand your issue and know yours is tougher as I used to occasionally buy a 39L but I never see them anymore as even 40L are getting rare.

My guess is a 40L might work for you as trench coats and overcoats don't need quite the exacting fit that a suit jacket does, but if the shoulders are big for you in the trench or overcoat, tailoring won't help. So, my first thought is try on the 40L from each brand you consider and, if the shoulders are okay, you can probably tailor your way to a decent result overall.

Of course, MTM is a great way to go, but it is very expensive. That said, I did an overcoat this way about seven years ago as I really wanted it to fit right and knew an overcoat would last a long time, thus, hopefully, justifying the expense. The coat still fits and looks great and, my guess, I have years and years of use left from it.

On the other end of the spectrum, you could try to find older models on Ebay and other sites - I've had some good success this way (got a great Pendleton overcoat last year this way), but it definitely takes patience (daily looking, checking all the details, asking the seller questions, etc.). The good news is there were more 38L, etc., in years gone buy, so more of these will pop up this way. And those older models tended to be cut with longer sleeves and longer overall length.

As to the sleeve length, I'm with the above posters who argue they should cover your shirt and suit coat sleeves and just a bit of the top of your hand. To me, this both makes sense functionally and looks "right" based on historical pictures. That said, the pictures you show of it not covering the "other" sleeves, looks, IMHO, very "fashiony-" and consistent with the shorter, tighter, slimmer aesthetic of today.

That's not my thing, as I try to go for timeless style and not of-the-moment or overly fashionable looks. Also, at your height and arm length, anytime something hits you short, it runs the risk of exaggerating your long arms or legs and can look more like a mistake than a choice (I have the same issue).

One last thought, I'd be very careful about buying an "alpha" sized garment as the chances of a "small" or "medium" being the correct size for you are slim - as they are for anyone, but even harder for you as you are (like me) a "long" so the "smalls" and "mediums" tend to be too short in the arms and body length while the "larges" tend to be too big in the body. That's the reason - in the good old days - they had not only numeric sizing but "short" and "long" versions as well - the human body comes in more than three or four fits.

Hope this helps a bit - good luck.
 
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