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Semi-Formal Waistcoat

15K views 29 replies 9 participants last post by  Jake1990 
#1 ·
Next week, if all goes to plan, I will be purchasing a new one-button SB PL dinner jacket in 38L from Ede and Ravenscroft, since my current one has the disadvantages of having a notch lapel and being several sizes too big for me.

I am contemplating buying a waistcoat as well and am not quite sure which style to go with. SB? DB? V-shaped? U-shaped? I'm pretty sure all combinations of these are stocked by E&R. Any suggestions as to which style would look best? If it's of any importance I'm 6'1'' and both of my dress shirts are marcella-fronted with wing collars (one detachable, one fixed).
 
#2 ·
DB if you can get it! Since you are wearing a wing collar (use the detachable, please!) you may consider a Marcella waistcoat, but black silk or wool to match the jacket will do quite nicely as well!

Next week, if all goes to plan, I will be purchasing a new one-button SB PL dinner jacket in 38L from Ede and Ravenscroft, since my current one has the disadvantages of having a notch lapel and being several sizes too big for me.

I am contemplating buying a waistcoat as well and am not quite sure which style to go with. SB? DB? V-shaped? U-shaped? I'm pretty sure all combinations of these are stocked by E&R. Any suggestions as to which style would look best? If it's of any importance I'm 6'1'' and both of my dress shirts are marcella-fronted with wing collars (one detachable, one fixed).
 
#3 ·
A white marcella waistcoat? I already own one for my white tie outfit (I'm at Oxford... :p) but I'd quite like to get a black one, depending on how much money I have left over after the dinner jacket. Any thoughts on whether U- or V-shape is preferable? I seem to recall seeing a DB U-shaped one in there some time ago.
Having a fair few black tie events each term I alternate between attached and detachable, mainly to make doing the laundry less painful, but I agree the detachable one is certainly better. I did, however, think it a bit strange that E&R still put a tab on their collarless shirts to attach to trousers when they no longer put the corresponding button on the trousers!
 
#4 ·
Just be aware that a DB waistcoat is going to be somewhat warmer than SB. I'm having a difficult time imagining what a DB U-shaped waistcoat would look like or just how it would be constructed. A downside of that style, to my way of thinking, would be the fact that most of the lapels would normally be hidden away under the DJ lapels. I'd go with the V.
 
#8 ·
I would pair the U-shaped waistcoat with a shawl collar to match the curving of the lapel to the curves of the waistcoat and I would go with the V-shaped everywhere else to match the angular cuts of the peak lapels.

basically I would match curves with curves or angles with angles to keep it sleek.

I would also suggest Black grosgrain or satin to match the jacket's lapel facings.

I suggest all this from a personal aesthetic point of view since all the possibilities mentioned would be correct and would work.

Thats my two cents.
 
#9 ·
I think shawl lapels on a U-cut waistcoat look a bit, for lack of a better word, weird. It already makes enough of a statement on its own without more curved shapes added to it.

I'm a fan of Brad Pitt's double breasted waistcoat.
 
#11 ·
Were I to be buying the attached collar shirt now I would go for a normal collar, but, being a student, I don't have unlimited funds and have to make do with the one I have for the moment at least. It is quite good quality even if the wings are typically pathetic. What I meant about laundry is that I try to minimise the amount of it I have to do. It's also a problem that there are no ironing boards in college and unless I decide to clutter my room with one then all I have is a coffee table, which is not the easiest thing to iron on!
Deanayer, I think I agree with your preferences, but I'll see what I think when I go in next week.
 
#13 ·
The thing is I don't really have anywhere I can keep it, even folded up. My room isn't particularly big and there's no convenient wall against which I could lean it. Besides, I have enough to haul between Oxford and Sussex every term as it is. I might be able to borrow one from a friend I suppose. I might ask around when I return.
 
#14 ·
You can always purchase a tabletop ironing board. They're smaller and take up less space, at the cost of not having as much surface area to continually iron the front and back of a shirt.
 
#20 ·
Very cool. Does it have pointed ends?
Thanks. I'm not certain what you mean but I presume you were asking whether it has this style at the bottom https://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic_Components/Waist_Covering/santanaapparel_com2.jpg as opposed to this https://www.blacktieguide.com/Vintage/Vintage%20illustrations/timeout_com_newyork_fallfashion2007_TomFord_1265dollars.jpg. If so then it doesn't. Four buttons as well, which I know is seen as inferior to three, but hey, it looks good! It has a full back, which I am led to believe is sometimes hard to find. The jacket's really nice too :D I might not have enough money left for food this term, but there are some things more important than nutrition :p
 
#22 ·
That looks . . .

. . . very nice. Of course, the waistcoat will pretty much disappear when the DJ is buttoned, but it looks quite smart. DJ sleeve looks just a trifle short, but it might just be the shirt or the stance.
 
#23 ·
Nice look. I think the waistcoat is fine, even with four buttons. Just stay away from the high fastening five button variety.
 
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