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If no response from the host or reliable close friends of the host, wear a dark suit.

I recently attended what ought to be a very formal event. The invitation specified semi-formal. Hoping that they meant black tie, but not holding my breath, I asked the organizer if this was the case.

"Oh, no. Well, maybe it used to mean black tie, but now that would be very formal. Semi-formal for this event means khaki pants with a shirt. And maybe a tie."

Ugh. Thankfully, few (if any) others asked her to clarify and most were in black tie and almost all the rest in dark suits.

pbc
 

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... showing up in a suit when everyone else is in dinner jackets would be worse than the other way around, I think. Moreover, I don't know the crowd you're dealing with, but it's quite likely that at least some men will show up in black tie. So even though it's quite unclear, it's always better to be overdressed than under.
I heartily disagree with this assessment and suggestion. It is not always better to be overdressed than under. Nor is it always better underdressed than over. For business and casual social settings, being dressed one step up is fine and plays on the safe side. But this assumes you know it involves two close categories and you've chosen the step up.

Once you get into black or white tie territory, those categories are so distinct that one step up isn't so simple. If the question is whether the event is black or white tie, I'd suggest the lesser of the two to play it safe. Between black tie and dark suit I'd choose dark suit. These are almost always acceptable alternative as they respectfully represent the wearer's best attire available and won't overshoot the host, guest of honor, or wedding party. (Note: This applies to the situation of the opening post and not to events where I know both dress categories will be present.)

pbc
 

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Redirecting Our Efforts

Whether you prefer a step up or a step down to play it safe, our debate ad nauseum can't solve the problem. We know what semi-formal should always mean. And the problem isn't that it has come to mean something else. The problem is that it has come to mean ANYTHING, not one of two possibilities but a wide range: from chinos to tie to sport coat/blazer to suit to black tie. This is the sad state of affairs with dress codes and habits since they've been intended and taken to mean virtually anything for so long that no one knows what is appropriate without calling the host directly for clarification by listing examples. Stating formality can actually cause more confusion than it solves, as we have seen time and again here.

So, as we strive to teach dressing well by lesson and example, what can we do to clean up the invitation dress code mess? Let's go to the source of this problem. How can we educate others? Some thoughts are to:

1. Use the correct traditional designation. If you use "formal" to mean ties and coats, what will you use for suits, "extra formal"? And for black tie, "uber formal"? White tie would have to be "astronomically formal" or something likewise ridiculous. Stick with the traditional, make no accommodations for modern dress codes; it only prolongs the illness. Secondary benefit - some may begin to understand that black and white tie, listed as semi-formal and formal, aren't so astronomical and ties and coats aren't so formal.

2. Include a brief parenthetical explanation. Yes, this is redundant but people don't know and you're taking the opportunity to educate.

3. Step up the dress for your events (not necessarily black or white tie). This may not work for every occasion, but the more people see and equate correct dress and its designation the better. Secondary benefit - having everyone dressed better will automatically make the event more classy and memorable; nothing else needed.

4. Send more invitations. If we stop and think, many social get togethers we plan can use invitations - definitely when the event is more formal or includes more people, especially for both. Besides, they are useful and elegant. Engraving gilded vellum is not required, just be classy and simple. I LOVE written invitations because the information is all together, I tend to remember it better, and I can easily refer to it later.

5. Answer questions politely and with confidence. If they have to ask then they don't know, which means you are the authority in this conversation (nevermind that you are the host). Be ready with a simple reference or two if they ask for one (www.blacktieguide.com, original Emily Post, etc.).

6. Include some help for the ladies. Women are often dressed better than men, but they have their habits as well. The "little black dress" is NOT the solution to any and all non-swimsuit occasions and "cocktail dress" is no more authoritative than "business casual." Business dress is at least knee-length and conservatively styled (covered shoulders and no low-cut tops). Semi-formal calls for at least mid-calf length. Formal is floor length evening gown or ball gown.

Other than our own events, how do we educate and spread the good word? Even influencing events of friends and family is slow in the overall scheme. I don't have all the answers. There are those among us who have written books, made presentations, done interviews, published reports, consulted, etc. on clothing and advocated for classical style. Can something be done with dress code designations and invitations? Bridal magazines and trade publications? Community presentations as a service of AAAC members? I believe in using the forum for more than debating shoe styles and looking for discounts.

pbc
 

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My suggestion was based on the idea that the groom and at least some of the wedding party would be wearing black tie... but I suppose that's not really a fair assmuption.
Ah ha. In that case I agree. When I know two levels of dress will be represented I like to go for the more formal. I may even push the envelope for public functions (such as opening night at the opera), especially when they traditionally called for more formal dress. My note on this issue was meant to indicate events when only one category will be present and the other may be out of place. For example, wedding receptions are personal events, it is more comfortable to have everyone on the same page, and I don't want to upstage the wedding party.

pbc
 

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Well, I finally got a repose from the bride to be.

"I don't know about black tie, but most people will be wearing suits or uniforms. We decided against tuxs since most of the groomsmen were Air Force people."

That settles that.
This is sad considering that a fair number of uniforms almost begs for civilians to be in at least black tie. What a handsome setting that would make.

pbc
 
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