[Mithras]

I bit the bullet and got the Tuxedo ordered. I’ll take pics as soon as I go in for a fitting and for the final product.

Final specs were:

Jacket
- 1 button, peak lapel
- 11 oz Scabal Barathea
- Grosgrain facings
- Damascene Silk lined (Bemberg arm and pit lining)
- Jetted, self faced pockets
- 4 interior pockets – no buttons (bottom left pocket re-enforced for my blackberry – an unfortunate necessity…)
- Boutonnière hole on lapel with loop in back
- All buttons in grosgrain (thought about bone, but would have to source my own. If I do, they will change for free at a later date)
- Surgeon’s cuffs
- Side Vents
- Slightly roped, not quite pagoda shoulders in more of a Poole/Huntsman style (suits me)
- A not insignificant amount of waist suppression (I have a 9 inch drop)

Vest
- 3 button, shawl collar (square bottom)
- Grosgrain faced (I struggled with this or self facing.)
- If there is enough Damascene Silk left, back will be made of this, otherwise black Bemberg.

Pants
- 1 pleat
- Grosgrain ribbon on leg.
- Vertical hip pocket opening along grosgrain (as opposed to slant)
- 1 back pocket
- Braces buttons
- No belt loops or side adjustors
- Raised “English style” back with V cut out (is this called a frog?)
- Cuff cut for no break (cavalry cut? Angled leg opening…)

All in all, I think this will be a nice evening suit/tuxedo. I tried to go as traditional as possible while creating a little bit of a personal style (side vents, shoulders etc.). My main reason for this (other than the fact I’m going to get married in it in 5 months) is that I have a beautiful Zegna tuxedo in midnight blue that is a three button, notch lapel. Lately every time I’ve put it on, I’ve felt somewhat self conscious wearing such a beautiful abomination. With this one, I never want to feel self conscious wearing it. I want it to look timeless and as suitable today as it will be in 10 years.

 

[Adagio]

Mithras,

Sounds great. You've obviously put a lot of thought into it. Just a couple of suggestions...for the timeless look as you are after why not have no vents on the jacket? Secondly, if you are obliged to carry a phone why not just get a smaller "drinking" phone for black tie events-Nokia 6300 or similar? It will be hard to disguise the presence of the blackberry, and it could spoil the line of the jacket.

"Cavalry cut" on the trousers?? Is that what its called? I've never heard of that but I like the sound of it. Presumably this comes from the no break pattern of British Army officers' mess "overalls"?

Please post a pic or two when its finished.

Adagio

 

[whistle_blower71]

Sounds great. You are right to choose cloth covered over horn as it is easier to change to horn than vice versa.
I love "cavalry" finish trousers with no/minimal break-absolutely perfect for black tie too! Make sure you wear braces at the fitting with the right shoes.

W_B

 

[AMVanquish]

For me, it's very important where the one button is placed. Too high is a little trendy, like Armani, too low can be very ugly.

If this is important to you, make sure you know exactly where it's going to be positioned.

 

[Mithras]

For me, it's very important where the one button is placed. Too high is a little trendy, like Armani, too low can be very ugly.

If this is important to you, make sure you know exactly where it's going to be positioned.

It will follow the lines of the vest underneath. probably about 2 inches higher than my belly button??

Adagio, that's exactly the look I'm going for in the pants. No break in the front and "correct" length in the back (top of shoe heel), giving a very slanted cuff. I think it looks great. And also I have a LG ke820 phone that I often use at events like this (it's 73 grams) but at work black tie events, I need the blackberry...Thankfully it's a curve so reasonable light!

As far as the side vents, yes that is the one deviation from pure tradition. It's a comfort thing as well as easier to dance in. Plus I think it lends well to the "Britishness" of the jacket cut.

 

[Aaron in Allentown]

Sounds like a great tuxedo. Mine is actually very similar. Only a few minor differences (I went with self-faced lapels on the vest, which was also a tough choice for me, I have no back pockets on the trousers, since I never use them anyway, and I went with no vents on the jacket).

All of these are trivialities that are simply a matter of preference.

Also, I went with midnight blue worsted for the fabric, although the facings are black grosgrain. I love it.

 

[Sator]

It all sounds fine to me, very well planned and thought out - something you always have to do with a bespoke commission. It appears that this dinner jacket is meant for warmer seasons in which case the dual vents will help "ventilate" the coat to keep you cooler. I think the grosgrain covered buttons are the best option here.

 

[lawgman]

I am impressed that the tailor from Robert Jones was willing to work with you so closely. Does he do all the work himself or does he outsource part/all of it? Lots of "custom tailors" tailors in toronto outsource part or all of their work to 2-3 different tailor shops.

 

[Mithras]

I am impressed that the tailor from Robert Jones was willing to work with you so closely. Does he do all the work himself or does he outsource part/all of it? Lots of "custom tailors" tailors in toronto outsource part or all of their work to 2-3 different tailor shops.

I've known the tailor there since I was a boy and my dad was buying MTM Warren K Cook suits from them...

he gave me the choice of MTM Pal Zileri (which would not accept my lining and insisted on their own) or "Custom" MTM (MTO was offered but not taken) Samuelsohn (which was happy to work with my requests and fit me very nicely).

Suit will be constructed by Samuelsohn with some extra hand finishing by Robert Jones's in house tailor (hand done button holes for sleeves and boutonnière, boutonnière loop, final cutting and finishing of waistcoat etc.)

Not true bespoke, but probably pretty close to as good as you can get without leaving Toronto...

 

[FabricMan]

Mithras,
Could you provide the Scabal fabric number used in your order?
I am getting ready to order a tuxedo, and was considering Scabal fabric 800609, also a Barathea, with a weight of 280 grams/9.877 oz.
I selected this fabric because blacktieguide.com suggested a 9-10 oz fabric as the "most practical choice".

Given Mithras' fabric choice (heavier than blacktieguide suggestion) and Sator's comment (meant for warmer seasons), I am wondering if I should be considering a weight heavier than 280 grams/9.877 oz?

I hope to see some suggestions on fabric weight for my tuxedo order.

 

[Mithras]

Here is the info right off of the scabal website (for those of you that don't know, you can create a user name and go through their whole range of fabrics. Quite useful!)
----------------------

Fabric 800611 [10/45]

Color Black
Weight 11.29 oz Width 150 CM
Bunch FORMAL WEAR Wool specifics (super) SUPER 100'S
Price range Brand Scabal
Weight category medium (260-320gr) Seasonality Four Seasons
Weave Barathea Design Plain design

Made in GB Cloth Label SCABAL SUPER 100'S
Selvedge * SCABAL * SUPER 100'S * MADE IN ENGLAND
Selvedge colour Lettering and edging lines in white on black satin ribbon
--------------------

This will drape much better than the 9oz. and I don't think will be too much hotter... I'm getting it with a silk lining so it will be warmer than normal for me. Still not 14oz or anything!

 

[Weisser99]

Scabal Fabrics are great! I get mine from Beckenstein's located on 40th and 8th in NYC.

CustomMen.Com also carry a huge line of Beautiful Scabal fabrics.