[Flairball]

My involvement here at AAAC over the years has been quite the journey and an education. Finding a style that I like, suits me, and the info I need to wear it to it full effect has been an adventure. In the beginning, there were so many "rules" that needed to be learned, and adhered to. Now, years later, though still learning much of dressing well come so easily. Still, it's not hard to look around and see that is not the case for everyone. ….and it's is there, that I want to explore somewhat in this thread.

What are some of the "rules" that people often get wrong that don't trigger a response? What are some of the conventions that you've just decided people are allowed to get away with? Sartorial slip ups that rank well below pet peeve.

I have a couple.

One of the things I have never gotten overly hung up on is tie length. I've heard people make remarks about slightly long/short tie lengths, as if it is imperative To be the exact right length. I could care less, so long as it's in the ball park. Given the tie has been chosen carefully and knotted nicely, an inch either way matters little. Naturally I try to get my ties hanging in the landing zone, but when I see someone who is trying, but has slipped up, I let it go.

Another issue we all must deal with is jacket sleeve length. It bothers me to no end when I see a jacket with long sleeves, but when I see a jacket which has been tailored a little too short I could care less. I dont really mind seeing a bit more shirt sleeve,…. within reason, of course. If it's a bright tweed with a handsome tattersall, I might even prefer it.

Anyway, these are just a couple of the things which have popped in to my head,probably as a result of sitting at home with too much time on my hands. I thought this may make for an interesting conversation.

 

[ItalianStyle]

Could we maybe not call them 'rules' (yes, I know you put the word in quotation marks, but the word often triggers a negative reaction)?
What about 'best practices'?
Something that from experience and trial and error creates a good look/fit/balance etc., but that you can deviate from if you know what you're doing.

I am flexible with tie length, as long as it doesn't reach the crotch or so short it looks like a child's tie.
Also with you on the sleeve length...

 

[ItalianStyle]

So if the question is "Which deviation from best practices does - in your opinion - simply not work?", one of my answers would be the unbuttoned button-down collar. I know what it is supposed to convey, but - in my opinion - it doesn't work.

 

[Troones]

Navy odd trousers have never been too popular here but I like them with a grey herringbone tweed. It has always seemed the consensus that Navy on top/grey on bottom is classic while the reverse is a bad look.

 

[215339]

I have a right arm that hangs lower than my left=unequal sleeve lengths

I also have older shirts that were the incorrect length for me and a bit shorter.

While I do MTM shirts often and have different sleeve lengths and jackets with differing sleeve lengths, I noticed the overall effort put into it didn't yield as much output.

So now, I'm ok and accept the small differences.

 

[Flairball]

So if the question is "Which deviation from best practices does - in your opinion - simply not work?", one of my answers would be the unbuttoned button-down collar. I know what it is supposed to convey, but - in my opinion - it doesn't work.

Best practices. I like that. That's what it shall be called.

…and I agree about button down collars. They're meant to be buttoned down. Seeing them unbuttoned is one of my pet peeves.

 

[some_dude]

Navy odd trousers have never been too popular here but I like them with a grey herringbone tweed. It has always seemed the consensus that Navy on top/grey on bottom is classic while the reverse is a bad look.

Oh no-- that is exactly what I was wearing a few days ago! I thought my navy trousers looked fine with the gray herringbone tweed-- is there some sort of "rule" against that?

 

[drpeter]

So if the question is "Which deviation from best practices does - in your opinion - simply not work?", one of my answers would be the unbuttoned button-down collar. I know what it is supposed to convey, but - in my opinion - it doesn't work.

The most well-known "deviator" in this category must have been the late Gianni (or Giovanni) Agnelli, the former head of Fiat. In fact he buttoned one collar point, but left the other one unbuttoned. He was very well-dressed but liked to incorporate these little oddities. A second example that comes to mind is the late Sonny Mehta, former head of Alfred Knopf, the publishing house. Mehta used to come to his office dressed in a suit, then remove his shoes and walk around in his socks. Quirks, yes, but these lent a kind of difference to the man involved.

 

[drpeter]

Jacket length, jacket sleeve length, tie length -- I have become more tolerant in these areas with deviations from the standard best practices. In addition, my taste for, and utilisation of, colour in clothes, even in more formal clothes, has become more catholic, and I now permit a larger variety of colours in practically every item of clothing I wear.

 

[drpeter]

Oh no-- that is exactly what I was wearing a few days ago! I thought my navy trousers looked fine with the gray herringbone tweed-- is there some sort of "rule" against that?

They may or may not be popular here, but I have long worn navy trousers (cotton and woollen) with a variety of sports jackets, to overall good effect and even compliments. A pair of navy flannels or drills would be perfectly acceptable with herringbone tweed jackets -- and not just in grey either. Rather like Oxford grey flannels, navy trousers go nicely with a host of other colours. For me, the trick is in the shirt you select. The sharpest look is to combine navy trousers with a very white, very crisp shirt. Then don your tweed jacket, and doff your hat to the other boulevardiers -- or flâneurs, LOL.

 

[Flairball]

Navy odd trousers have never been too popular here but I like them with a grey herringbone tweed. It has always seemed the consensus that Navy on top/grey on bottom is classic while the reverse is a bad look.

It is true that blue odd trousers have been less than a fan favorite, here. Your combo sounds like the perfect usage. I have been without blue trousers for some time and have been considering purchasing a pair of blue 8 wale cords. I'm certain they will look good with an appropriate tweed worn above. Everything looks good with an appropriate tweed worn above.

 

[ItalianStyle]

Oh no-- that is exactly what I was wearing a few days ago! I thought my navy trousers looked fine with the gray herringbone tweed-- is there some sort of "rule" against that?

That's why I oppose calling it 'rules'. Maybe this combination is not best practice for worsted or specific shades of gray etc., because it looks 'off', but if you understand the reasoning behind it, you can make it work with tweed or PoW or a different shade of gray.

Same with the best practice of, say, not have a tie and pocket handkerchief in the same color/pattern. It looks unbalanced or even contrived, but if you can put together an ensemble where it actually looks good, then you have deviated from the best practice and you know what you're doing and can make it work.

 

[fishertw]

I too like navy trousers but always "think" about the fact that many do not. It doesn't bother me in the least but do know that others find it unconventional. I do also like ties which have the point just at belt buckle level or thereabouts.

 

[drpeter]

I too like navy trousers but always "think" about the fact that many do not. It doesn't bother me in the least but do know that others find it unconventional. I do also like ties which have the point just at belt buckle level or thereabouts.

I agree entirely. Here's what puzzles me: Navy blue is perhaps one of the most conservative colours, almost the same as a medium gray. It has a quality of "neutrality" which should enable an easy combination with other colours. This quality is also possessed by the khaki/beige colour.

Now, gray trousers seem perfectly acceptable to most folks here, in combination with blazers and sports jackets of almost all hues and textures, as well as an infinite range of shirt patterns and textures. To me, navy blue (and other shades of dark blue) seems to be equally acceptable with those jackets and shirts.

Over the years, I have become more open to colours that I would not formerly have worn in trousers. Pale pink is a good example. Think Breton red bleached to near-invisibilty, LOL. I wore a pair of poplin trousers in pale pink with a blue polo shirt this summer, and it looked great,

 

[lightbeard]

Well here is a best practice which falls into this category for me - collar or turtle neck shirts are the appropriate choices underneath sports coats. It doesn't bother me if someone wears a crew neck or even - dare I say it - a fashionable t-shirt underneath a sports coat.

Let the forum members expressing aghast with shock begin opcorn:

 

[Flairball]

Well here is a best practice which falls into this category for me - collar or turtle neck shirts are the appropriate choices underneath sports coats. It doesn't bother me if someone wears a crew neck or even - dare I say it - a fashionable t-shirt underneath a sports coat.

Let the forum members expressing aghast with shock begin opcorn:

That is something I can't get behInd. It happens, but it is neither a Trad, nor classic way of wearing menswear. Much more a fashion position, and a symptom of the laziness of our society. That said, usually when someone is dressed that way, the of their outfit follows, and it bothers me little, but in its totality I'd not call this a slip up.

 

[richard warren]

There was a time when the elements of a suit (shoulder padding, sleeve length, pants length and cuffs, lapel width, etc.) were tailored so as to flatter the wearer...now it’s all just fashion, and for most not very attractive.

To the extent deviations from best practices are deviations from fashion, they should be encouraged.

 

[williamkazak]

So if the question is "Which deviation from best practices does - in your opinion - simply not work?", one of my answers would be the unbuttoned button-down collar. I know what it is supposed to convey, but - in my opinion - it doesn't work.

I am not a button down shirt type of guy. I do have one in oxford cloth and I have three pinpoint that I have found at the local thrift store. They are white with blue stripes. Nautical. I can wear them without buttoning them up. It feels ok for me to do that.

 

[eagle2250]

Well here is a best practice which falls into this category for me - collar or turtle neck shirts are the appropriate choices underneath sports coats. It doesn't bother me if someone wears a crew neck or even - dare I say it - a fashionable t-shirt underneath a sports coat.

Let the forum members expressing aghast with shock begin opcorn:

Just yesterday our Pastor was wearing a (high brow) crew necked T-Shirt under his cream hued sport coat, paired with medium grey gabardine trousers. While I'm not a fan of wearing T-Shirts, paired with a sport coat, I gotta tell ya...he looked pretty spiffy. Nuff said!

 

[drpeter]

Just yesterday our Pastor was wearing a (high brow) crew necked T-Shirt under his cream hued sport coat, paired with medium grey gabardine trousers. While I'm not a fan of wearing T-Shirts, paired with a sport coat, I gotta tell ya...he looked pretty spiffy. Nuff said!

Well, Eagle, it is Florida after all, where things tend to be far looser than the buttoned-up East, LOL. Although it is hard for me to imagine the old chap delivering a fire-and-brimstone sermon clad in a cream sport coat and crewneck T shirt! That sort of elocution requires something much darker: A flowing black robe, perhaps with a giant red sash/belt, like a Cardinal...