Men's Clothing Forums banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
423 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, after a lot of research and trying on various suits I think I have decided to return my Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald suits that I have previously purchased and go the MTM route. Out of all the suits that I have tried on I liked the Zegna the most but at over $2200 it seemed a little too expensive. Instead I am going to get a Navy and Charcoal Samuelsohn suit made at The Hound in San Francisco. It seems like a pretty good deal for around $1200 a suit.

My question is whether there is anything I should be particularly aware of during my first MTM purchase? Anything you wish you knew the first time you did MTM? I really like the British look so am going to try to get that across and hope they know what I am talking about. Any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,415 Posts
MTM fits you to one of several exisitng patterns- they can certainly adjust some aspects (sliimer legs, narrower lapels, etc) but you need to make sure you are working with a tailor who understand 1) the patterns and 2) what you want so as to determine if it's compatible and how to communicate that to the factory. Trust your tailor. And rememerb, it's MTM, not bespoke.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
423 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
MTM fits you to one of several exisitng patterns- they can certainly adjust some aspects (sliimer legs, narrower lapels, etc) but you need to make sure you are working with a tailor who understand 1) the patterns and 2) what you want so as to determine if it's compatible and how to communicate that to the factory. Trust your tailor. And rememerb, it's MTM, not bespoke.
Thanks, for the advice. I've only talked on the phone with people at The Hound but they seem pretty knowledgeable. I've talked to Leon and Mike so I imagine one of them will be helping me when I go in on Monday. Curious if anybody can give me a clue as to what the slimmer models of Samuelsohn are as well. Looking for high armholes, waist suppression, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,343 Posts
You will like them. At the Hound you are working with an owner (3 of them) not an employee. There main line of suit and sport coats is Samuelsohn so they will have a fabulous relationship with the Samuelsohn follks.

That is where I always source my Samuelsohn purchases while visiting SF.

Please pass on my regards to them.

Perry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
423 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Perry, for your replies.

Couple of other questions to anybody who might know. What kind of cloth would one recommend for a Navy Blue Suit? I want really good soft fabric but also want it to be really durable.

Also, what are the feeling on side adjusters. I don't really like belts because I usually wear brown shoes with navy suits and feel that a dark brown belt really breaks everything up and makes it look more casual. Do they do a pretty good job of holding up your pants?

Any other advice anybody has would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,532 Posts
Also, what are the feeling on side adjusters. I don't really like belts because I usually wear brown shoes with navy suits and feel that a dark brown belt really breaks everything up and makes it look more casual. Do they do a pretty good job of holding up your pants?
There are two different types of side adjusters. The first kind is the one that buttons on the sides with an elastic band going through the rear of the trouser waistband. The elastic helps to keep the trousers tight on he waist. The other kind has adjustable pieces of cloth at the sides. I like them both better than belts. They can fit to your body more closely than a hole in your belt. The belt only allows for inch variations in waist size. I like my suits to also have buttons for braces. That's the most reliable and comfortable way to hold up your trousers. Side tabs are the best aesthetically; braces are the best functionally.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,415 Posts
As far as fabric- stay in the 100-range. A great colth ala super-100 will be soft but quite durable. Start going north of 120 and you get added pliability and maybe softer hand, but along comes the wrinkles and eventually the wear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
423 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks, I hope to go with side adjusters and keep the fabric in the super 100's to Super 120's range.

Sorry, another question I had was if anybody is familiar with Samuelsohn models what are some of their slimmer fitting models? In particular, what are the names of the models that have a silhouette similar to a British style? Just trying to know a little more before I go in. When I did a search for Samuelsohn I remember I found a general description of several models but can't seem to find it again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,343 Posts
One of the things you give up at the $1200-1400 price point is high super count fabrics.

I find every one of my Samuelsohn's wear very well, whether RTW or MTM, but than again I didn't try and go with a hi super count fabric that brought the cost up to $1800.

One thing to check is fabric weight. When I was working in SF I tended to a heavier 9.5-10 oz fabric. Now that I am in Az and LV I am much more focused on much lighter fabrics, which of necessity lower the durability factor. I would grab the fabric tag of my favorite 9.5 oz Navy Blue Samuelsohn from some years ago but the suit is in my place in LV. Sorry

Many of my suits were sourced some years ago and the models have since changed. The guys at the Hound are very very familiar with the current choices so I would let that decision wait until tomorrow. Also there are some stylistic differences as well as fit differences between the models that you will want to review.

I suppose it is the advantage of working with the owners rather than a commissioned sales agent a la NM, but I probably trust the folks you will work with more than any other sales contact I deal with. And I generally have been very pleased with my Saks and NM contacts.

Perry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,343 Posts
I decided to get off my duff and get you a bit more info. The current models I have from the past 2-4 years are the SB Andrew and the SB Greenwich. It is hard for me to tell which is more "slimming" as I find them much equivalent (also one is 43L and two are 42L) and the size difference is probably what I am seeing with the Andrews being having a bit more waist suppression.

My favorite old model which I own in a couple of Blue suits and a MTM summer suit in a khaki colored wool are the older SB Como. My love of that model had more to do with the unique slanted notch on the lapels (nearly a shawl collar but straight edged with a notch angled more down that sideways).

Have fun tomorrow. BTW, be open. You may find that you can get a RTW that fits you nicely and is quicker and less exp than a MTM. The reason I went to the MTM model some years ago had more to do with the availability of that summer colored fabric yet in a wool for SF wear than the need to change anything on the model. In fact I recall that I changed nothing.

Enjoy,
Perry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
423 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Perry,

Thanks again for the information. I am really looking forward to tomorrow as from all the research I have conducted and what you have told me is that the guys at The Hound really know their stuff and I am looking forward to dealing with them.

I am open to RTW but two features of the suits that I must have are flat front trousers and side vents. From the research I have gathered those aren't very common.

I posted this question over on Style Forum and somebody just commented that Samuelsohn makes a suit model that he felt was similar to a Zegna Milano. Anybody have any idea what this might be? I realize its easier for me to just go in with all my questions tomorrow but I like going in armed with as much knowledge as possible.

Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,532 Posts
I am open to RTW but two features of the suits that I must have are flat front trousers and side vents. From the research I have gathered those aren't very common.
Find that these days shouldn't be a problem. Both flat front trousers and side vents are in fashion right now. I see them pretty much everywhere. When I last went into the Barney's in Boston, every suit had flat front trousers, and I'm sure most if not all had side vents. I was looking for some pleated trousers, and when I asked the salesman if there were any, he said no. I thanked him and walked out. I called Paul Stuart in NY today and they said that all their suit trousers had no pleats. Flat front suits seem to be everywhere now. Men's Warehouse even has plenty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
780 Posts
"British Look"? Which British Look?
Anderson Sheppard or Huntsman?
For a Samuelsohn garment that is
roughly equivalent to the A&S end
of the British Look continuum,
try the Talbot model. It has virtually
no shoulder padding. The last time I checked,
the Hound had that model in stock.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top