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Black is extremely slim, with a modern look inspired by the skinny lapels of the early '60s. Tends to attract a youthful, slightly fashion-forward crowd. Purple has gone through several iterations over the years, but typically has been more of a traditional cut. The styling used to be heavily English, but that has faded. Lately it's slimmed down, but not so much as Black.

Purple is Ralph's top line, but Black is also very well made.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Black is extremely slim, with a modern look inspired by the skinny lapels of the early '60s. Tends to attract a youthful, slightly fashion-forward crowd. Purple has gone through several iterations over the years, but typically has been more of a traditional cut. The styling used to be heavily English, but that has faded. Lately it's slimmed down, but not so much as Black.

Purple is Ralph's top line, but Black is also very well made.
What's popular on here?
 

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There are two levels of Purple. One is predominantly hand tailored by Sartoria SantAndrea Milano (formerly SaintAndrews) and is very expensive for RTW www.st-santandrea.it . It's comparable in construction, not styling, to Paul Stuart's Stuart's Choice above 4K. The lower level PL ain't SA.

Black label construction is similar to lower level Purple, but not styling, as DH describes.

PL has proffered various styles from updated-traditional to neo-Edwardian with extended shoulders. Started as "boardroom" in concept, has "evolved" into something quite diffr'nt.

All now made in Italy. PL was made in England tween '95 & circa '02.

Unless things have changed yet again.

Please reference the search function for: RLPL
 

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Indeed, but the RLPL was aimed at the market that did not have the time, patience, imagination, knowledge or vocabulary to go bespoke. Only the money.

W_B
Unless you're buying from Holdfast!
 

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I have a Black Label suit that I got on sale about 3 years ago - its one of my favorite suits. Mine was made before Black Label started to come full canvas but its well put together anyhow. It has held up to abusive wear quite well also. I'd get 6 more if I could.
 

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There are two levels of Purple. One is predominantly hand tailored by Sartoria SantAndrea Milano (formerly SaintAndrews) and is very expensive for RTW www.st-santandrea.it . It's comparable in construction, not styling, to Paul Stuart's Stuart's Choice above 4K. The lower level PL ain't SA.

Black label construction is similar to lower level Purple, but not styling, as DH describes.

PL has proffered various styles from updated-traditional to neo-Edwardian with extended shoulders. Started as "boardroom" in concept, has "evolved" into something quite diffr'nt.

All now made in Italy. PL was made in England tween '95 & circa '02.

Unless things have changed yet again.

Please reference the search function for: RLPL
Very interesting.
Could you explain the other type of PL and how to tell which is which. I am waiting for Pl on sale in a small size but that seems to be very difficult.
 

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Jamgood and others have provided some insight into Purple Label, so I will try to do the same for Black Label based on the pieces I have.

Black Label is made by Caruso and is very well made. I am a big fan of Black Label. The cut as Doc has eluded to is quite slim and fits me darn near perfectly off the rack which is probably why I am such a big fan. In more detail the silhouette is trim with strong shoulders and narrowish lapels and a nipped waist. The button stance is a little lower than today's norm which helps accentuate the verticality of the silhouette. Additionally, the quarters are opened which helps form a "X" shape. The jacket has side vents which are on the shorter side. The suit trousers have button tabs and are cut trim through the thigh and fall straight from the knee.

Odd jackets and trousers, feature the same silhouettes. As far as I know all sportcoats and suit jackets feature the "Anthony" cut which I have described. It seems that they have introduced a double breasted cut as well for this season.

Black Label shirts seem to be made by Lorenzini as all the tags are the exact same as my Purple Label shirts. The shirts are cut quite slim, very different from their Purple Label counterparts in this regards.
 

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According to a PRL salesman I spoke to at their Boston Newbury Street location, the Blue Label slim fit and Black Label are practically the same fit, and purple label is somewhere in between black/blue slim and Blue Label classic fit.
 

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They blue label slim fit cuts while they may approximate the black label slimness and vice versa, are still unique in their details...and vice versa.

The Polo (sometimes referred to as blue label) jackets feature slghtly wider lapels in general (bleecker and congressman cuts being an exception) and also very soft shoulders. The shoulders are the biggest difference between the two.
 

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Very interesting.
Could you explain the other type of PL and how to tell which is which. I am waiting for Pl on sale in a small size but that seems to be very difficult.
Currently, original retail prices for RLPL SantAndrea are north of 3k for sport coats/blazers and north of 3.7k for suits, in most instances.

This is the production tag to be found inside RLPL-SA jackets and trousers. It may have changed. Although I've sold the other RLPL line on eBay I don't have a production tag photo or an item to check. It's different. RLPL odd trousers without this tag inside are not SA.
 

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This is the production tag to be found inside RLPL-SA jackets and trousers. It may have changed. Although I've sold the other RLPL line on eBay I don't have a production tag photo or an item to check. It's different. RLPL odd trousers without this tag inside are not SA.
I think this is an example of the tag on Cantarelli-made items (click thumbnail to enlarge). But I've just pulled it from my sales photo file, so I can't recall for certain.

https://img295.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jul29022uz3.jpg
 
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