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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In a fit of thrifting a few months ago, before I acquired anything resembling proper knowledge and/or concern about how clothes should really fit, I bought a LE pinpoint buttondown shirt. The size tag was cut off, so I still don't know the size.

Here it is in all its oversized, tent-like glory:
https://img145.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn3859mediumgh3.jpg

I never wear it anymore since I have now acquires less billowy shirts, and I wanted to learn a bit more about shirt construction and modification, so I decided to hack it up!
Full disclosure here: I'm an engineer, I like using my hands and figuring out how things work - even if that means using a few hours to cut on a $3 shirt.
I read up on a few old posts about how shirts are altered and someone mentioned their tailor opened up the side seam from bottom through the sleeve and removed material.
I borrowed my mother's sewing machine, and after some trial and error, got it working.
I marked a line 1-3/4" from each side seam (1-3/4 * 4 = 7 inches total removed!), tapered it to 1-1/4 by the armpit, and tapered that out to nothing by the time the seam reaches the cuff. From there, I sewed (more or less) along the line, then did another pass to reinforce, like this (the shirt is inside out, this is the inside of the armpit):
https://img387.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn3861mediumgh0.jpg

Then I cut off the excess. Here I realized that this is PROBABLY not how real tailors do the job. The cut edge frayed immediately. I later went in by hand and sewed "loop"-type stitches around the edge to maybe help it stay together for a while. Here's the cut edge and fabric removed:
https://img375.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn3862mediumld7.jpg

And here's the final product, side-by-side with the initial:
https://img145.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn3859mediumgh3.jpg
https://img368.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn3863mediumct4.jpg

And more after, wearing more clothing (but still not ironed):
https://img388.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn3865mediumdw5.jpg
https://img183.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn3866mediumrf3.jpg

The fit is a bit tight around the hips - if I did it again, I'd let that flare out a bit. The shirt itself does not fit my shoulders (too wide), even though the neck is pretty good. The sleeves are still really bulky, especially around the forearms, despite the material removed. I'm happy with the armholes - the operation sort of made them higher - they hug my armpits better and would better clear the armpits of a jacket worn on top.

I thought someone might be interested in this, so up it went for posterity. It gives me more of an appreciation of what tailors do, that's for sure.

It's still a $3 shirt with amateur tailoring, but it was a fun exercise. Tailoring tips are welcome. Any comments on the fit, even though it's obviously off as discussed above, may help me buy nicer fitting shirts in the future. I'm 6'0", 165lbs, 38R, 32Wx32inseam, runner/swimmer build. My arms are abnormally short, I think, like a t-rex.
 

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243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·

That's a swell job. Really. Oh, and there's something calld Fray Check, a mostly-invisible glue that's applied on the edges of freshly cut fabric to prevent unravelling. $1.63 at W*M.
Great tip, thanks! If I can find some of that, I think I'll try the procedure on a white shirt for med school interviews that fits better in the shoulder.
How do real tailors do the job? I have to guess there is some folding involved?
 
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