[kas]

Hello,

This summer I placed my first order at TJ at a "discount" offering of claimed limited supply fabrics. Cloth is from Reda, price is just over USD 1k. The experience has been disappointing to say the least due to myriad problems with the blazer. If I keep the jacket when I next view it, that will be my fifth visit to the shop.

Having resolved a handful of other issues including making the surgeon's cuffed sleeves over 2-1/2" too long, the fit is now pretty good. I dislike having sleeves removed and replaced due to utter carelessness.

Here are my remaining concerns or irritations:
1. Pattern at the bottom of the jacket is not symmetrical and I see this immediately in the mirror.
2. Pattern at the end of the sleeves is nowhere near symmetrical.
3. Breast pocket is curved, not straight, even when I try it on. This makes the pattern really wide and busy in this area, mandating a pocket square to separate the straight pattern on the jacket from the curved pocket, in my opinion. I rarely wear a pocket square and certainly want it to be my option.
4. Liner is really sloppy: Creased in various places and sewn in an uneven line across the bottom of the jacket including right near the edge in one location such that it just barely shows from the front even before wearing it. They are addressing only the latter issue at this time.

Naturally, the salesmen insist all this is perfectly normal and the jacket looks great, but I have other M2M blazers with no problems with pattern alignment. I do have other blazers with sloppy liners. I am not using a microscope. These issues are apparent in 30 seconds when I pick up the jacket and put it on.

The sleeves were ordered to be the same length and they fit me--sleeve length is not the issues. Also, the length of the two sides of the front of the jacket should be the same as each other, though I have not measured them. The fit fine when I try on the jacket. In the attached photo I did not align the jacket well but generally the pattern aligns acceptably across the chest.

Would you please comment on the photo displaying poor pattern alignment at both the bottom of the front of the jacket and at the ends off the sleeves? Specifically, would you request a full remake or refund?

Thank you.
KAS

 

[Oldsarge]

Without seeing the jacket either on a manikin or on you, I really can't help you.

 

[Matt S]

I was also going to say that we need to see the jacket on you. The bottom of the front looks to be a hair off. The sleeves can't even be compared since you're showing the front of one sleeve and the back of the other. The ends sleeves may also be different from either other if your arms are different lengths (most people's are), and the patterns need to match at the top of the sleeve. The pattern at the ends doesn't matter.

 

[kas]

I was also going to say that we need to see the jacket on you. The bottom of the front looks to be a hair off. The sleeves can't even be compared since you're showing the front of one sleeve and the back of the other. The ends sleeves may also be different from either other if your arms are different lengths (most people's are), and the patterns need to match at the top of the sleeve. The pattern at the ends doesn't matter.

Thank you for your comments and expertise. Matt S, I enjoy your Suits of James Bond blog.

I regret I have no photos of the jacket on me.

Sleeves
The sleeves are the same length, as mentioned, and I did not receive more photos, but I noticed the patterns do NOT match at the top of the sleeve, as you indicate they should . Rather, the sleeves attach to shoulders in different locations on the horizontal pattern of the sleeves, thus they end on the front of both sleeves how we see in the photo, even if the photo includes the back of sleeve, as you correctly point out, the front looks the same in this instance).

Front
I suppose logically either the front is longer on one side, the seam on the traps are not identical, or the pattern is misaligned, or we would not see the extra line on my right hip.

Thanks again.

 

[kas]

Photographs don't seem to match your complaint.

Jacket bottoms, as Matt says, seem a hair off. Underline the word hair. Keep in mind even when buttoned, the bottom quarters shouldn't touch so a side-by-side comparison should vanish when worn. And fabric isn't lumber, there's some give when tailoring and again when wearing. Nice looking jacket (from the knot hole in the fence view).

About the breast pocket (not shown). A couple things. Sometimes the welt on a patterned inset pocket will be inserted on the bias. So no pattern matching is attempted. And the dart extends up and into the pocket exterior, purposely pulling the pattern out of strict alignment. Either of these affecting your pocket?

Thank you for your observation, and for your compliment on the jacket.

Clearly, I did not receive sufficient photos, and the jacket is at the shop so I cannot add more. I appreciate your working with what I have. I'm trying to determine if I should keep it or request remake or refund.

Jacket
Regrettably that hair off on the bottom quarter includes a extra stripe, which I notice immediately in the mirror. It's not as subtle as I would hope.

Breast Pocket
Good questions. I don't believe either of these is what is vexing me. It's a square pattern and the pocket is also aligned square. I don't think it's on the bias, but then again, I am an ignoramus in this and countless other matters. I believe the welt is curved. A photo would certainly help.

 

[CLTesquire]

I don’t think I’d ask for a refund or remake based on the pattern matching at the bottom. I hear what you’re saying about an extra stripe but it’s very, very close to being right on. I’d have to see fit pictures for the other issues as other posters have suggested.

The pictures are pretty washed out...what color is the fabric? Reda makes some nice stuff.

 

[kas]

Thanks, CLTesquire. You mention the photos are washed out, but I don't know how to clear this up for you. They appear clear to me and others have not indicated there is a problem. The fabric is a dark green and the stripes are white.

 

[CLTesquire]

If it’s dark green then pics aren’t that far off. What else do you know about the fabric? Looks like a fairly smooth hand. Super 110s or 130s I’m guessing. What’s the weight? Just curious is all.

 

[kas]

I know it's beautiful. TJ describes is as 891299 Sport Coat Dark Green Plaid 100% Super 120s Wool, Set 12, S9JHE05. The stripes are white and blue on the dark green field.