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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Darren,

I have some rather specific questions regarding the tailoring technique that you (and other tailors of your statute in general) employ:

A. When pad stitching the lapel, do you use a blind himer or do you pad stitch by hand? What about for the coat front?
B. Do you make the coat front from the core components (horse hair cloth, hymo, canvas) and sew them together (w/pad stitching) or do you buy them pre-fabricated and modify per your specifications?
C. How much of the suit do your hands touch? Do you draw the pattern onto the fabric and then send work onto stitchers?
D. If, and I am sure you do, send the bulk of the work onto stitchers, how extensive is their role? I want to ascertain how much work a tailor (like one on Saville Row) actually does.
E. How is the roll of the lapel created? Is it through the pad stitching or through ironing?

I know that the tailor’s primary role is in the fitting and designing of the suit… but I would like to know what can reasonably be expected from a great tailor in terms of personal impact on a suit.

Best regards,

Kirby
An admirer of your work
 
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