Not sure what you mean.

This lapel notch is perfectly classical and appropriate for conservative business dress:

The trend for high gorges crawling like caterpillars over the shoulder is a modern fad.

B.

 

Ok, notice the how in the picture above, the notch opening seems to point straight to the side?

Now picture it pointing/opening down at an angle.

I looked for photos online, but couldn't find any that looked as I'd described.

 

https://putthison.com/post/23483570213/consider-the-gorge-trends-are-a-funny-thing

 

Ok, notice the how in the picture above, the notch opening seems to point straight to the side?

Now picture it pointing/opening down at an angle.

I looked for photos online, but couldn't find any that looked as I'd described.

It's hard to visualise what you're describing, but appreciate you've looked for a picture and came up short. If you were not deprecating the mid-level gorge, as in the picture, then we may well be ad idem.

 

I know what the OP is referring to--notches with more obtuse angles, so that the lower line of the angle forming the notch points more at the floor. If you watch early episodes of Seinfeld, you see Jerry wearing a lot of jackets like this. That angle was very '80s/early '90s.

By the way, GW Bush was not known for being a sharp dresser; his suit sleeves hung halfway down his hands. But to be fair, politicians in DC are known for putting as little thought into their clothes as possible.

 

By the way, GW Bush was not known for being a sharp dresser; his suit sleeves hung halfway down his hands. But to be fair, politicians in DC are known for putting as little thought into their clothes as possible.

I could take issue with whether all of us wish to be 'sharp' dressers. It is not a compliment in my vocabulary.

Bush was dressed by image consultants in high quality but loosely fitting suits; Oxxford featured prominently. He was all 'corporate CEO' in his dress, to declaw any negatives from the flack 41 took for his preppy-ness. But there is nothing wrong with the notch in his picture - my bespoke suits have a similar if not identical notch as a matter of personal preference. As a matter of personal preference, I don't like the high notch, louche Neapolitan style. At least on a Solito it would be executed well, unlike a lot of the fashion forward nonsense on the market OTR.

 

Don't quote me on this, but I believe BIllax wrote something on his blog about how the best lapel notches, specifically, the lower edge, are cut parallel to the shoulder line. This seems, to me, a natural and aesthetically pleasing design.

 

If Ascot... is correct, and this was one of those Armani-esque 90's "relaxed" things where the collar is way long and the notch is down on the chest, yes that was an exaggerated style that aged poorly.

I fear that Balfour is correct, and that you found proper proportions and are used to the modern ugliness of floppy lapels that are high and steep. I understand the mentality behind the former.

 

If Ascot... is correct, and this was one of those Armani-esque 90's "relaxed" things where the collar is way long and the notch is down on the chest, yes that was an exaggerated style that aged poorly.

I fear that Balfour is correct, and that you found proper proportions and are used to the modern ugliness of floppy lapels that are high and steep. I understand the mentality behind the former.

Entirely agree that the gorge in that picture is bloody awful.

 

It had a deliberate slouchiness about it. I don't understand this dreck, where the lapel is a total right angle. I get the feeling that if one fully closed this coat, they'd get smacked in the chin by the lapels.

 

That is very odd, and I agree it sounds unappealing. Without wishing to be wise a**, my only familiarity with Jones NY is from long ago, and they were strictly women's wear. Other women's wear labels who've ventured into men's clothing have been known to do strange things. Perhaps that's what you encountered.

 

I could take issue with whether all of us wish to be 'sharp' dressers. It is not a compliment in my vocabulary.

I see now that you're in the USA, but if you're originally British, then I think you're misunderstanding the American idiom; "sharp" here means what Brits would call "smart"--well dressed, basically.

(I initially thought from your name/profile photo that you're in the UK.)

 

I see now that you're in the USA, but if you're originally British, then I think you're misunderstanding the American idiom; "sharp" here means what Brits would call "smart"--well dressed, basically.

(I initially thought from your name/profile photo that you're in the UK.)

I do like these linguistic points.

What I was trying to convey is that there is a distinction between people who dress well, in the sense of being well put-together but in a fairly 'below the radar' way and people who dress well, but are 'noticed for their clothes'. (I mean 'noticed' in their professional and social circles; I'm not trying to trigger a tiresome debate about the decline in dress standards across the board, which has been done to death on these fora.)

In acknowledgement of my English heritage, it can be illustrated by two members of the Royal Family.

HRH The Duke of Edinburgh:

HRH The Prince of Wales:

I prefer the former approach; I would not wish to be 'noticed for my clothes', in a dandy-ish way. No criticism of those that do, it's just not my approach.