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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HSM New York, size 41R. Dillards 50% off sale, so $350.

Feels very comfortable, armholes are good, shoulders have a very slight dimpling but otherwise shoulders, arms, collar, etc. looks good, IMO.

I am 5'8 and usually wear 40-42 short. As far as I can find anywhere, this model does not come in a 41S.

I have a couple good local tailors. Should I bother getting it shortened? Looks like I would need 1-2" off. I think the pockets and buttons are still placed ok (at or above the belt).

What say you?

 

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Thank you. When I compare it to new "rules" I see it should be about 1" above the crotch for a 5'8 guy. I can't help but see that as well if I stare, but at a glance, I think it looks good!
The ideal is that it should comprise roughly half your height from shoulder to floor, subject to other considerations. I could see fiddling with it to shorten it maybe a 1/2", but frankly it looks good the way it is, and I wouldn't mess with it.

Sorry, I don't do new rules! :D
 

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If you were to shorten it do so by no more than half an inch. Shortening a jacket too much can throw the balance of the pockets off. First, the jacket should cover your behind, my ideal length is when the jacket falls at the knuckle of my thumb, within a fraction, may differ for others. While not a fast rule, deduct nine inches from your height and divide the difference by half, may not work for everyone. In your case that would work out to about 29 1/2" measured from the base of the collar at the back plus or minus. That jacket probably could stand to be shortened by half inch, otherwise leave it alone.
 

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As in, don't shorten it, or leave it in the store?
Based on your physique and this picture, it is better that you just leave the jacket length alone, while you should get the sleeve shorten and check the back side and you should be good to go.

Shorter jacket length, < 1" shorter than ideal, may work on some folks, but probably not for your physique. The two classical rules: a. cover your rears, and b. divide half from your nape down to floor, are not followed in the trendy short-short jackets. Those jackets do not make your legs longer, but make your hip looks larger than your shoulder. If this jacket was a 41S, the buttoning point will be higher and that may cause the jacket hem flare, creating an illusion that the hip is larger. With this shoulder width and a larger than ideal hip size, it looks like your hip is larger than your shoulder, which is not the case in reality.

I failed to see why some men wants to have this effect (hips larger than shoulder) on them. IMO that is not a look one should be looking for.
 

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Okay, since we've gotten into the weeds here and whether or not you purchased that jacket/suit, assuming you did. You say you have a couple of good tailors available to you, if all they did was to shorten the sleeves, which they need, they would be doing a disservice. It appears your left shoulder is lower than your right which causes bunching of fabric below and forward of your armpit which also effects button to buttonhole alignment, a competent tailor would know how to correct that. You may or may not wish to nip the waist, your tailor could pin it and judge if it would enhance the fit or not, A good tailor will look at all areas of fit, is the back clean, no ripples etc.. A bit more involved than just shortening sleeves. No two bodies are identical and a garment will fit differently on each person. Develop a relationship with a good tailor and forget "new rules".
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you for the excellent advice, all! I'm heading back to the store to pick this guy up (it was there at close last night).

Certainly the sleeves need shortened, the sides may be contoured and, good eye, one shoulder is lower than the other. Regarding length, I will consult with my favorite tailor but probably leave it alone.

To really get in the weeds, my favorite tailor is expecting to work with me on an MTM in a couple weeks. With this suit purchase (found it on a whim. Clearly much cheaper and not a perfect fit but more in line with my budget), I'll need to push that back 6 months or so. That may be a difficult conversation!

Thanks again!
 

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Thank you for the excellent advice, all! I'm heading back to the store to pick this guy up (it was there at close last night).

Certainly the sleeves need shortened, the sides may be contoured and, good eye, one shoulder is lower than the other. Regarding length, I will consult with my favorite tailor but probably leave it alone.

To really get in the weeds, my favorite tailor is expecting to work with me on an MTM in a couple weeks. With this suit purchase (found it on a whim. Clearly much cheaper and not a perfect fit but more in line with my budget), I'll need to push that back 6 months or so. That may be a difficult conversation!

Thanks again!
I'm sure your tailor will do right by you.
 

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I agree that the length of the jacket looks fine. But let’s say, for sake of discussion, that the jacket were just ever so slightly too long. That problem—assuming it existed—would not be noticeable once you put on the matching trousers. Because of the stark contrast between the dark suit jacket and your tan khakis, it’s easy to begin overthinking the length of the jacket. I believe you can safely relax, considering that in the real world you’ll never wear that jacket with light-colored trousers.

You can relax as far as the jacket is concerned, that is. There’s another issue that you haven’t mentioned, so I will, because it may be real rather than imaginary. In examining your facial features, as clearly presented in the two photographs in your opening post, I am reminded of the documented relationship between finger size and another part of the male anatomy. So never mind the jacket length—in light of your photos, you’d better make darn sure there’s enough fabric in the trouser crotch for your tailor to let out.
 
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