Simple geometry tells us that the length of your arm doesn't change, no matter what angle it's extended at, so long as you're fully extending it in both measurements.

What matters is whether or not you extend your fingers, and whether or not the tailor starts from the shoulder or from the beginning of the upper arm, or from some other starting location.

I've always been measured with my arms hanging naturally down at my sides, and my hands relaxed and un-stretched. Theoretically, this measurement should be no different than a measurement taken with my arms extended at 90-degree angles from my torso.

There's probably a natural tendency to relax your hands when your arms are hanging down, and to extend your fingers when your arms are extended from your sides. So if that's what happened, my guess is that the extra few inches came from having your fingers extended in the second measurement.

 

I have friends at Mens Wearhouse and Saks. This is the answer I got from interviewing them:

At Mens Wearhouse, the shirt brands they sell in 32/33 sleeve are usually cut slightly longer, closer to 33 1/2. At Saks, their shirt brands tend to be sold in exact sizes so you can find shirts in either a 34 or either a 35. Some salespeople may give you a different measurement due to the different brands their store sells, while some salespeople will take shrinkage into account, while other salespeople will give you differing measurements due to personal preferences.

So while it is entirely possible one of the salespeople was simply careless in their measurement, it is more likely due to the reasons listed above. A good link that I found about measuring for a shirt is https://fashion.about.com/cs/menstips/l/blmenmeasure.htm

P.S.: My guess is that you're a 34.

 

The obvious answer is just to try a few shirts on and see how they fit. I think the measurements only give you a starting point. Shirts vary, as do people's particular taste. Some people like the sleeves a bit long, so when they extend their arms their sleeves don't ride up too much. Other people don't like the look of the extra fabric this requires. Keep in mind the body of the shirt can be cut differently, also affecting the fit (varying trim fits/arm holes etc.) Pay attention to where the shoulder seams of the shirt lie in relation to your shoulders. Tuck the shirt in and see if it looks too blousy also.

 

The measurement is really just a starting point as the cut of the shirt and even how tight the cuff is will all influence how long the sleeve appears to be when worn.

That being said I'd use the method with your arm bent. Your arm may not get longer but the change in geometry will certainly pull the cuff if it's much too short.

-spence

 

I always measure with arms and hands relaxed. Start at the vertebrae, out to shoulder, down to the elbow then to the wrist. I figure it will give the best measurement for the "just standing there" fit that the shirts we sell are made for, but I always suggest to try them on before buying to see how it fits when you are moving around. But whenever you are using the two inch increments (32/33, 34/35, etc...) you need to fudge any way.

 

From the current Harvie & Hudson post -

 

Simple geometry tells us that the length of your arm doesn't change, no matter what angle it's extended at, so long as you're fully extending it in both measurements.

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The arm measurement is not of your actual arm but of the fabric which will be needed to cover your arm at it's most extreme position.

 

the guy seemed quite disinterested

I think this is the part of the problem. The whole point of me getting tailored clothing is so it fits correctly. If I don't think they did a proper job measuring, I'll have them do it until I'm satisfied. And if they are disinterested I'll drop them like 3rd period french class and get another person to help me. Never understood why clothing store staff seem to be bad about giving attitude to customers.

 

I think this is the part of the problem. The whole point of me getting tailored clothing is so it fits correctly. If I don't think they did a proper job measuring, I'll have them do it until I'm satisfied. And if they are disinterested I'll drop them like 3rd period french class and get another person to help me. Never understood why clothing store staff seem to be bad about giving attitude to customers.

Having them do it until you feel it's properly done implies you already know how to do it, so why do you need them at all? Working a tape measure isn't rocket science; surely you can figure out your arm length without soliciting the help of someone you already don't trust or respect. Even after you figure it out, rtw shirts vary in other ways that cause sleeves to pull up varing amounts- so you have to try each one on anyway.

 

Having them do it until you feel it's properly done implies you already know how to do it, so why do you need them at all? Working a tape measure isn't rocket science; surely you can figure out your arm length without soliciting the help of someone you already don't trust or respect. Even after you figure it out, rtw shirts vary in other ways that cause sleeves to pull up varing amounts- so you have to try each one on anyway.

I was referring to the apparent lackadaisical attitude of his salesperson. If I have a rough idea of my size, and someone does a sloppy, half-hearted job, I will certainly ask them to redo it. I've had people tell me I'm a 14x32 in shirts, and I'm generally a 15.5x35 - they weren't even trying. I agree that various brands and cuts will differ by varying degrees, which is why they measure you. But laziness is unacceptable. If they don't want to be at work, they should go home.

 

I agree with the OP, once your confidence is shot with people its shot. Its not the first time someone got half-hearted measurements that ran counter to what they thought they should be. What you are after is someone who is serious and skilled who can take your measurements, tell you how the shirts in any of their brands run and then steer you to the sizes that will fit. The employee is supposed to know what runs bigger and smaller etc., not you the customer.

This is the problem with OTR - you need to know your measurements and then you have to convert those into whatever the shirt maker has done so if nobody is there to help you are going to look for your exact size and you may get burned.

The best bet is to try on two different sleeve lengths and/or collar lengths until you find the best fit using your known measurements as a starting guide. Dont worry if this results in a number of shirts having to be unpacked or put away later, you didn't invent the inconsistent sizing problem your just stuck with it.

 

I was referring to the apparent lackadaisical attitude of his salesperson. If I have a rough idea of my size, and someone does a sloppy, half-hearted job, I will certainly ask them to redo it. I've had people tell me I'm a 14x32 in shirts, and I'm generally a 15.5x35 - they weren't even trying. I agree that various brands and cuts will differ by varying degrees, which is why they measure you. But laziness is unacceptable. If they don't want to be at work, they should go home.

Your concern of lazziness in the work-place is touching, but having someone re-measure you if you already know your size is silly. It's the shirts that vary, so ask them to measure those.

 

Thanks very much, guys. Great info. Here's an update ... yesterday I was at Lands' End and tried on several shirts. 16.5 x 35 is definitely the one for me, at least w/ that brand. ;-)

 

Thanks very much, guys. Great info. Here's an update ... yesterday I was at Lands' End and tried on several shirts. 16.5 x 35 is definitely the one for me, at least w/ that brand. ;-)

Good to hear. It's nice to find brands with sizes that fit right. I'm glad you found what you were looking for.

 

Thanks very much, guys. Great info. Here's an update ... yesterday I was at Lands' End and tried on several shirts. 16.5 x 35 is definitely the one for me, at least w/ that brand. ;-)

Just make sure there was room for the neck and sleeves to shrink, as shirts are made just slightly oversized to allow for shrinkage. If that size fit you perfectly without shrinkage, then you may need to move up 1/2" in the collar and 1" in the sleeves. Consider buying one shirt and washing it a few times to see if it still fits.

 

Just wondering, if they measure proper sleeve length, and then the body is tailored up through the armpit area, won't that shorten the sleeve? Should I plan on getting a longer sleeve length?