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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I received my lovely isaia sportcoat from STP last week. It fits perfectly in the shoulders. It's my first napoli style coat and I've noticed the sleeves are angled a bit at the end; when I hold my arms straight down rather than lining up with the shirt cuffs show more shirt cuff on the inside and less shirt cuff on the outside.

Before I get the buttons sewn on I'd like to know what the correct length for a coat that has an "angle" or "bias" in the sleeve.

I am taking it to nordstrom (only tailor in the area - Walnut Creek CA - that I know) to get the buttons sewn on and I certainly don't feel like I can rely on them to tell me how a neapolitan sleeve should fall.

Thanks!
 

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It sounds like the jacket has been previously altered ...

then returned to stock. But this may not be the case. First off, your shirts should be the correct length before altering the jacket, especially if you are like many people and have one arm longer than the other. Be sure to wear a shirt which has been altered to your satisfaction when measuring for your jacket. He will measure from the tip of your thumb to the end of your jacket, allowing for the proper 1/2" of cuff to show with your arms at your sides. He or she can make both sides of the jacket show the required 1/2" of cuff. The only time I have run into this is when I bought a jacket that already had working buttons installed. The tailor had to make one side of the sleeve a little long to compensate for the previously installed buttons. Keep in mind when you are having a department store do alterations, that those tailors have almost 100% of their customers wear their sleeves too long, so they may balk at adjusting your sleeve length correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
then returned to stock. But this may not be the case. First off, your shirts should be the correct length before altering the jacket, especially if you are like many people and have one arm longer than the other. Be sure to wear a shirt which has been altered to your satisfaction when measuring for your jacket. He will measure from the tip of your thumb to the end of your jacket, allowing for the proper 1/2" of cuff to show with your arms at your sides. He or she can make both sides of the jacket show the required 1/2" of cuff. The only time I have run into this is when I bought a jacket that already had working buttons installed. The tailor had to make one side of the sleeve a little long to compensate for the previously installed buttons. Keep in mind when you are having a department store do alterations, that those tailors have almost 100% of their customers wear their sleeves too long, so they may balk at adjusting your sleeve length correctly.
That's good info. The white thread is still in the sleeve so I didn't think it was previously done. I assumed it was a stylistic thing. For example these napoli coats have a "crooked" sleeve end:

 

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then returned to stock. But this may not be the case. First off, your shirts should be the correct length before altering the jacket, especially if you are like many people and have one arm longer than the other. Be sure to wear a shirt which has been altered to your satisfaction when measuring for your jacket. He will measure from the tip of your thumb to the end of your jacket, allowing for the proper 1/2" of cuff to show with your arms at your sides. He or she can make both sides of the jacket show the required 1/2" of cuff. The only time I have run into this is when I bought a jacket that already had working buttons installed. The tailor had to make one side of the sleeve a little long to compensate for the previously installed buttons. Keep in mind when you are having a department store do alterations, that those tailors have almost 100% of their customers wear their sleeves too long, so they may balk at adjusting your sleeve length correctly.
Why do you need a shirt? If you measure the 5 3/4" from the tip of the thumb, the shirt doesn't matter. It only matters if you want to base it off the shirt.
 
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