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jmorgan32

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I just bought my first pair of Charleston khakis. I have worn Bill's in the past and enjoyed them.
Charleston khakis are made by Berle Manufacturing in SC, and they are a premium trouser manufacturer.

If you have not tried a pair, I urge you to do so. They retail for 75.00 versus the 97.50 for Bill's. I just have an issue (frugality?)with paying 100 bucks for a pair of cotton khakis, unless I can see far superior quality. I cannot. Same piece goods. 8.5 ounce and all of the same features. Brass zipper, deep pockets, coin pocket, etc. On the Berle website, they list the local retailers, and provide a nice description of the trouser.

I describe the fit as an "in-between" of the Bill's M1 and M2. Not a long rise like the M1, but not quite as narrow through the rear end and thighs as an M2. Great khakis! Sorry for not providing the link, but you can simply Google Berle Manufacturing. They even have the entire list of phone numbers listed on the Contact link to call and ask whatever you like. (I have done so. Very nice "Southern" folks on staff there.)

As an FYI, I had a conversation with Mr. Hunter of Hunter and Coggins about khakis, and he said that he prefers the Charleston, but his partner, Mr. Coggins wears Bills. Just a matter of personal preference. His store stocks both brands of trousers. ( I called them because they are one of the few retailers who sell both brands, and I wanted a non-biased opinion from a true expert.)

All the best,
Joe
 
There is an ad in the current Esquire (The United States of Style issue) for something called the Dockers K-1. They are claimed to be the classic WWII-style khakis and are only $70.

I have not actually seen a pair in person, so I have no idea of the quality, but I am curious.

I would guess that Levi's has seen the popularity of brands like Bill's and is looking to catch some of that market as well.
 
Thanks for giving a nod to us Southerners, Joe. Charleston Khakis are great, and I prefer their "Charleston Reds" to Murray's "Nantucket Reds" any day. I just ordered a pair of Berle's seersucker patch trousers, they are patches of seersucker in varying horizontal-vertical alignment in pink, blue, and green. Those are another pair of go-to-hell pants for me.

Until a man is 25, he still believes, somewhere deep in his mind, that if the circumstances were right, he could be the baddest motherf***er in the world.

- Unknown
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
quote:Originally posted by Drinking and Drafting

Thanks for giving a nod to us Southerners, Joe. Charleston Khakis are great, and I prefer their "Charleston Reds" to Murray's "Nantucket Reds" any day. I just ordered a pair of Berle's seersucker patch trousers, they are patches of seersucker in varying horizontal-vertical alignment in pink, blue, and green. Those are another pair of go-to-hell pants for me.

Until a man is 25, he still believes, somewhere deep in his mind, that if the circumstances were right, he could be the baddest motherf***er in the world.

- Unknown
Thanks.. I loved the little tags that came on the khakis too. The quips about "our Southern grits and shrimp and low country khakis." Neat stuff.
 
I feel that the distinction between Cton Khakis and Bill's is one of functionality. Cton K's are part of the whole "Charleston uniform," and are therefore a bit finer, to my eye, anyhow (despite the lower price). I'm not knocking their durability, which I gather is superb. Bill's, on the other hand, are essentially an updated military "working" garment, which means that are intended to be ruthlessly abused and still come through the ordeal with panache. In a sense, Bill's are supposed to look sorta roughed-up. Cton Khakis invite a pressing; Bill's M1s disdain it.

But how about a nice round of props to Charleston for continuing to exist as America's most stylish city and providing reason for us to even have this debate?
 
quote:Originally posted by Bradford

There is an ad in the current Esquire (The United States of Style issue) for something called the Dockers K-1. They are claimed to be the classic WWII-style khakis and are only $70.

I have not actually seen a pair in person, so I have no idea of the quality, but I am curious.

I would guess that Levi's has seen the popularity of brands like Bill's and is looking to catch some of that market as well.
Levis made the K-1s probably six or seven years ago and they didn't catch on--I bought several pair at Marshalls for $30 per and they are finally starting to wear out, so I'm glad to see they are bringing them back. They are excellent, and if the details remain the same I will buy more. The ones I have are 9 oz. Cramerton cloth, flat front with a button fly, on seam side pockets, coin pocket, French fly, and a little fabric loop (for a pocket watch chain?) on the waistband above the right pocket.

The rise on them wasn't as high as the WWII vintage khakis I've owned, but the fit is slightly looser through the thigh.

Regards,

Charles

https://bostonhistory.typepad.com
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
quote:Originally posted by matdebord

I feel that the distinction between Cton Khakis and Bill's is one of functionality. Cton K's are part of the whole "Charleston uniform," and are therefore a bit finer, to my eye, anyhow (despite the lower price). I'm not knocking their durability, which I gather is superb. Bill's, on the other hand, are essentially an updated military "working" garment, which means that are intended to be ruthlessly abused and still come through the ordeal with panache. In a sense, Bill's are supposed to look sorta roughed-up. Cton Khakis invite a pressing; Bill's M1s disdain it.

But how about a nice round of props to Charleston for continuing to exist as America's most stylish city and providing reason for us to even have this debate?
Literally considering moving to Charleston. Love that town. Great place, great food and nice folks.
 
quote:Literally considering moving to Charleston. Love that town. Great place, great food and nice folks.
Well, as long as you are from some other place in South Carolina, you are welcomed to move to Charleston, if you are from above the Mason-Dixon, you may want to consider Myrtle Beach. ;)

Until a man is 25, he still believes, somewhere deep in his mind, that if the circumstances were right, he could be the baddest motherf***er in the world.

- Snowcrash, Neil Stephenson
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
quote:Originally posted by JohnnyVegas

I was planning on checking out some pairs of Bill's here in Providence over the weekend, and thankfully the same men's shop that stocks those also has Berle's on hand. I wonder what the staff will say about the two.
Please be aware that Berle makes a "regular" khaki in addition to the "Charleston" model. The Charleston is their top of the line. The regular Berle has 3/4" slant pockets, and is not the same piece goods. Bill's are far superior to that trouser. When you compare the Bill's side by side to the Charleston, I would love to hear what your thoughts are.
Joe
 
Dumas & Sons in Charleston has, probably, more pairs of Berle and Charleston Khakis than any other store in the world. Last time I went there were just mountains of them laying around the store.

Until a man is 25, he still believes, somewhere deep in his mind, that if the circumstances were right, he could be the baddest motherf***er in the world.

- Snowcrash, Neil Stephenson
 
Ive actually gone the tailored route with my khakis. I have worn Bills, and to a lesser extent, JCrew khakis for years, but none of them fit me precisely as I wanted. I wanted a longer rise than Bills, and a larger leg opening at the the bottom. Izzy at LS had his pants tailor from Staten Island make me a pair to my specs, and they are perfect. Cost was $265.00, which included materials. Button fly, made by one man, with his machine and his hands. Seems expensive yes, and it is, but considering the hundreds I have spent over the years trying to find the perfect khaki for me, this is almost a money saver in the long run.
 
Question on the Rise:

I called Bill's a while ago. They stated that the rise on the M1 was 12", and that the rise on the M2 is 11"

For Joe Morgan and those who have bought Charleston Khakis and find the rise not as deep as Bill's, did you order the Charleston in Long, or Regular?

Also, if anyone could measure the rise of the Charleston's to compare imperically, that would be great. Just measure the outseam (waist to hem) and subtract the inseam (groin to hem).

I would really appreciate such info. Thanks.
 
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