Pleats or Flat Front

10277 Views 53 Replies 27 Participants Last post by rocco, Aug 17, 2008

DietzGolf

Discussion Starter · Aug 13, 2008

I need to buy 1 or 2 new suits. I generally hope to get 5 years out of my investment, so I want to make sure I am buying at the beginning of a fashion trend as opposed to the end. As such, I believe I should be looking at a 2 button, side vent Jacket with flat front pants with plain bottoms. I understand the flat fronts have been popular for a few years know, so my concern is that it may be time to pants with a single pleat.

Any suggestions?

41 - 54 of 54 Posts

Cruiser

· #41 · Aug 15, 2008

Bogdanoff said:
Look here, people are comming to this forum for advice. The only thing you keep on repeating is that it doesn't matter. This makes you a troll.

What doesn't matter? I'll tell you what doesn't matter. It doesn't matter whether you choose to wear pleated pants or flat front pants. And if thinking that way makes me a troll, OK, I'm a troll. Does that make you feel better?

If you want to choose to wear one style or the other, it doesn't matter. Why do you think it does? Why do you think that YOUR choice in this matter is the only right choice and that anyone who disagrees with that is a troll?

By the way, we don't disagree on this as it appears we both favor flat front pants. The difference is that I don't really care if someone else chooses to wear pleats. Nor should you.

Cruiser

Jovan

· #42 · Aug 15, 2008

He's got quite a healthy point, Boggie. I may not be the most experienced or knowledgeable person about clothes, but I think I'm correct in agreeing with him. And I'm sure I'm not the only one who says that if the forum were full of people who think the same way as you, Ask Andy would not be the most popular clothing forum. It would, in fact, be quite alienating. I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish by driving off TMW shoppers "for the good of the forum" and creating completely inflexible rules that follow only your aesthetics. I may not be the best dressed here either, but I've gone a long way in three years and I'm still learning. I've fortunately learned to disregard the really black and white opinions of you and other members like you that I've seen here.

Please don't think this is an ad hominem attack, I am merely pointing out what I've seen. I have gotten frustrated a couple of times with you and other members with similar advice though, I'll admit.

I'll tell you what. I may be going on a road trip later this year up north. If I can find time to stop over for a bit in Cambridge, we should sit down and have a drink. I have a feeling you're actually a really decent chap in person. I'm also eager to see how you dress and what works well for you that you have these strict rules from which to follow (which may be why you're very adamant about telling these to others and think they are absolutely correct, and I think that is understandable to a degree). To date, I don't think I have seen a single picture of you on this forum so if you could provide one for me to recognise you, that would also help. Please, let me know if you're interested.

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Jim In Sunny So Calif

· #43 · Aug 16, 2008

Bogdanoff said:
Who cares is not a difficult concept. The problem with it is that it is useless.

If you find my posts or opinions to be useless, you might be right, so please feel free to ignore them.

Thank you, Jim.

ChicagoMediaMan-27

· #44 · Aug 16, 2008

Bogdanoff said:
Look here, people are comming to this forum for advice. .

So the only advice you have to offer is "flat unless fat" ? Wow, I now consider you an expert.

brokencycle

· #45 · Aug 16, 2008

ChicagoMediaMan-27 said:
So the only advice you have to offer is "flat unless fat" ? Wow, I now consider you an expert.

Check out his other posts. He is, just ask him. In fact, he should write the law of the land when it comes to people's attire. Anyone who doesn't follow it will be swept up in the middle of the night.

And for the record, I am quite slim; however, I have never liked flat fronts. I find them uncomfortable.

Bog

· #46 · Aug 16, 2008

ChicagoMediaMan-27 said:
So the only advice you have to offer is "flat unless fat" ? Wow, I now consider you an expert.

That is a distilation of a conventional wisdom.

Preu Pummel

· #47 · Aug 16, 2008

Jim In Sunny So Calif said:
I started wearing braces last year and, like you, find them more comfortable than a belt. Too bad they don't look good without a jacket or I would wear them all the time. I guess that is a look for lumberjacks and not many others.

Thanks for the Thurston advice. I love their braces, and find the colors and material the best so far.

Braces without a jacket do look a little odd, but it depends on the coordination with the suit. If they look good with the rest of the suit you can go sans jacket at times of need and not be embarrassed to look like a lumberjack.

I used to work with one of those throw-back type guys, retro-clothes wearing hipster, and he would work without jackets and show off his braces. Looked fine, when away from desk he donned jacket. It was highly swank in the halls of cotton tees and jeans.

Matt S

· #48 · Aug 16, 2008

I think we should all just talk about the history of the pleated pant to explain the difference. To start very simply:

English - forward pleats
Italian - reverse pleats
American - flat front

This is what these are traditionall associated with, but now the English do every thing, the Americans do mostly reverse pleats and flat front as do the Italians.

RTW

· #49 · Aug 17, 2008

Esquire: "A Compendium of Pants." April 1962

Pleats Trouser fronts are either plain-fronted or single- or double-pleated; the double-pleat is, for the most part, limited to tradition preserving custom tailors. While the single-pleat is still, by far, the most popular, the trimmer look of pleatless trousers is continually gaining favor and is de rigueur for the younger man and the natural shoulder enthusiast. Sport slacks, especially are going the way of no pleats (though the less-confining pleated models are preferred by many active sportsmen: e.g. golfers). While pleats - contrary to popular conceptions- will not hide a pot, they will give a heavier-set man more room through the front. The choice, therefore, depends on comfort and the look a man wishes to achieve.

eHaberdasher

· #50 · Aug 17, 2008

RTW said:
Esquire: "A Compendium of Pants." April 1962

Pleats Trouser fronts are either plain-fronted or single- or double-pleated; the double-pleat is, for the most part, limited to tradition preserving custom tailors. While the single-pleat is still, by far, the most popular, the trimmer look of pleatless trousers is continually gaining favor and is de rigueur for the younger man and the natural shoulder enthusiast. Sport slacks, especially are going the way of no pleats (though the less-confining pleated models are preferred by many active sportsmen: e.g. golfers). While pleats - contrary to popular conceptions- will not hide a pot, they will give a heavier-set man more room through the front. The choice, therefore, depends on comfort and the look a man wishes to achieve.

Great quote RTW and I do find that it still applies 46 years later today. I personally prefer a trim flat front pant as I have oddly wide hips for a 40R/34W. Pleats merely accentuate my wider hips (although I can get away with a single reverse pleat without looking like I have the capability to deliver twins). I also tend to believe that, in general, larger waisted men look better in flat front trousers as pleats merely balloon at the thighs and accentuate the girth of the mid-section - again - my humble opinion. Of utmost importance is wearing the trousers correctly at the natural waistline - far too many men, especially heavier men, wear their trousers too low, which looks terrible regardless of whether the trousers or plain front or pleated.

Matt S

· #51 · Aug 17, 2008

RTW said:
Esquire: "A Compendium of Pants." April 1962

Pleats Trouser fronts are either plain-fronted or single- or double-pleated; the double-pleat is, for the most part, limited to tradition preserving custom tailors. While the single-pleat is still, by far, the most popular, the trimmer look of pleatless trousers is continually gaining favor and is de rigueur for the younger man and the natural shoulder enthusiast. Sport slacks, especially are going the way of no pleats (though the less-confining pleated models are preferred by many active sportsmen: e.g. golfers). While pleats - contrary to popular conceptions- will not hide a pot, they will give a heavier-set man more room through the front. The choice, therefore, depends on comfort and the look a man wishes to achieve.

Very interesting. From movies and television in the 60's, I remember many more flat fronts and double pleats than single. Do you know if they are referring to forward or reverse pleats?

Jovan

· #52 · Aug 17, 2008

Bogdanoff said:
That is a distilation of a conventional wisdom.

I'm still waiting for a reply. If you say no, that is fine. My feelings are not hurt.

archduke

· #53 · Aug 17, 2008

I love the RL Preston flat front model. Goes well with English style tweed jacket

rocco

· #54 · Aug 17, 2008

Pleats = cuffs

Never made sense to me, given that formal trousers will never have turn ups but often have pleats.

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