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Pleats or Flat Front

10278 Views 53 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  rocco
I need to buy 1 or 2 new suits. I generally hope to get 5 years out of my investment, so I want to make sure I am buying at the beginning of a fashion trend as opposed to the end. As such, I believe I should be looking at a 2 button, side vent Jacket with flat front pants with plain bottoms. I understand the flat fronts have been popular for a few years know, so my concern is that it may be time to pants with a single pleat.

Any suggestions?
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Instead of trying to time a trend, just stick to a classic look. Two button side vents are fine. As for pleats, that's a personal preference. I prefer pleats and cuffs with suits and save the flat fronts for more casual occasions.
The fashion industry has been pushing flat front slacks for 4 or 5 years now. But I think they may have begun to realize that some people won't wear them, and those who don't offer pleats will lose business to those who do.

If you can figure out what you prefer, and buy good quality clothing that makes you look good, you'll never have to worry about the fashion industry's plan to make it obsolete.
Pay no attention to fashion, only look to style....

Both flat front and pleats have been in style for years. Some years you see more of one than the other, but both can and do work. Flat fronts are not less formal than pleats, but flat front or one pleat work well with slimmer cut suits, as do plain bottoms. You must look at and try on some suits to see what you want. For example, Hickey-Freeman is an American style full cut suit. It is likely to be found with pleats and a jacket center vent. This suit looks good with cuffs. The BB Regent iis a much slimmer suit, and will be found with side vents, flat front or one pleat, and looks better with no cuffs. People who say they only wear pleats and cuffs are probably buying full cut suits since billowing pleats and cuffs would look rediculous on a trim fit. You have to select the cut you want first, then you can get the styling to fit the cut.
Exactly what they said. Fashion is fleeting, style is forever.

I might try to find suits with forward-facing pleat trousers if you end up wanting them. The forward facing single pleat looks sleek and is quite flattering. Cuffs are your preference as well. I prefer side vents myself, but there will be many that defend the single vent forever. Again, your choice.

What are you buying the suit(s) for? Work? Looking good on a night out? The inevitable weddings/funerals? That would help some of the more experienced members here help you.
The fashion industry has been pushing flat front slacks for 4 or 5 years now. But I think they may have begun to realize that some people won't wear them, and those who don't offer pleats will lose business to those who do.
This certainly hasn't been my experience. Finding off the rack flat front pants, especially in a selection beyond charcoal, navy, black, and tan, is not easy. Every store I go to has almost exclusively pleated pants and when they do get flat front pants they sell out quickly.

My last two pairs of pants I had to pay $70 each to have the pleats removed and before that I had several pairs of pants made just so I could get flat fronts. I know several guys who wear pleated pants solely because flat front pants are so hard to find.

I was in Macy's, Dilliards, and Jos. A. Bank last week and couldn't find a single pair of flat front pants in any of them. OK, there were a couple of striped, fashion forward pants at Macy's, but that's not what I'm talking about. Macy's and Bank both told me I would have to special order flat front pants. I asked why they didn't carry them in the store and both salesman said that they didn't know, especially since they have so many requests for them.

Another example, J.C. Penney has apparently discontinued it's Stafford line of suit separates in which you could get either pleated or flat front pants. They are selling them at close out prices on their web site and the flat front pants have just about sold out while there are plenty of pleated pants in all sizes left.

I went to Brooks Brothers and almost all of their suits come only with pleated pants. I asked the salesman why and he just shook his head. He said he gets lots of requests for flat front pants. Later that same day I was at my tailors and a guy was dropping off a pair of Brooks Brothers pants to have the pleats removed.

My conclusion is that a lot of guys want flat front pants but simply can't find them easily. I wish the industry would push flat front pants.

Cruiser
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You have the right idea of looking towards a 5 year life in a suit, particularly if that is what you wear daily.

Most people look better in a 2 button, so that probably works for you. Try a 3 button to be sure. It really is question of your physique.

Side vents require a good cut and a good tailor or you will have a shelf on your butt. That is why most suits are sold as single vent.

Pleated vs flat front doesn't make much of a difference and I am not picky when it comes to the pants. That said, I recently picked up a 2 emergency pairs of pants from the Andover shop, one pleated, the other flat front. The flat front makes my 38" waist look not so bad. I was surprised as I have bought pleated for the last 15 years because that is mostly what has been available. The pleats provide more room in the thighs, etc, and are overall a tad more comfortable.

Unless you wear cowboy boots with your suits, have your pants cuffed.

You can't time fashion. If you could, fashion houses wouldn't make any money. Traditional clothes always look good in any time, so they are cheaper in the long run and that is why I buy them.

Good luck and look for a store with a good tailor.
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Unless you wear cowboy boots with your suits, have your pants cuffed.
Have to disagree completely with this, at least on this side of the pond...
If you've even attempted to use the search facility then you should know already that it is the opinion of many on this forum that pleats are usually unnecessary and unflattering.
A good suit defies trends. Get what suits you and not what the magazines say what should or not be offered for sale. They are seldom right and following their line merely encourages manufacturers to pander to 'fashion'.
Side vents require a good cut and a good tailor or you will have a shelf on your butt. That is why most suits are sold as single vent.

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Hardly true at all although the US has always hada preference for this nwretched style. Just a lazy salesman would allow someone to leave his shop in any ill-fitting garment.
A good suit defies trends. Get what suits you and not what the magazines say what should or not be offered for sale. They are seldom right and following their line merely encourages manufacturers to pander to 'fashion'.
I agree 100%. We continually have threads about 2 vs 3 button, darts, cuffs, collar bars, tie width, pleats, vents, and other details being in or out of fashion. My advice to people is find the style that suits you and leave fashion to the ladies.

I was lucky and found the style I prefer 50 years ago, so I expect that during that time I have been in and out of fashion many times without knowing nor caring.

If this forum did not have 'fashion' as part of it's name, I would be in favor of banning the word 'fashion' here. :icon_smile:

OK - Rant Mode Off.

Cheers, Jim.
I agree 100%. We continually have threads about 2 vs 3 button, darts, cuffs, collar bars, tie width, pleats, vents, and other details being in or out of fashion. My advice to people is find the style that suits you and leave fashion to the ladies.

I was lucky and found the style I prefer 50 years ago, so I expect that during that time I have been in and out of fashion many times without knowing nor caring.

If this forum did not have 'fashion' as part of it's name, I would be in favor of banning the word 'fashion' here. :icon_smile:

OK - Rant Mode Off.

Cheers, Jim.
Will's "A Suitable Wardrobe" blog had an apt post this week about that very thing:

...Fashion is for women and style is for men. The fashionable woman buys clothes frequently and wears them just a few times so she can dress in the mode of the day. The role of the male of the species, on the other hand, has been for the last three hundred years to provide a good looking backdrop to that extravagance. A man ideally wears well cut clothing that remains perfectly appropriate for decades.
https://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2008/08/fashion-vs-style.html

The "decades" part probably shouldn't be taken to extremes... ;)
If you've even attempted to use the search facility then you should know already that it is the opinion of many on this forum that pleats are usually unnecessary and unflattering.
This thread says otherwise.
BB has plenty of flat front or single pleat trousers...

Maybe the respondent was at an outlet store. The price may be prohibitive to some, but they are available. Last year, I bought three flat front trousers at BB from their Country Club collection. These ran $234 retail. I also bought two Regent suits with the single pleat. BB has 25% off sales frequently, and if you like their clothes, the sale prices are not too high.

JAB also sells flat front or single pleat trousers in their Joseph line. Not all store s carry the Joseph, so sometimes you have to order over the internet. You can take your order to any JAB store for return/alterations.
Will's "A Suitable Wardrobe" blog had an apt post this week about that very thing:

https://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2008/08/fashion-vs-style.html

The "decades" part probably shouldn't be taken to extremes... ;)
Like with so many topics, I think Will is spot on. Fashion was once described as something so ugly, it has to be replaced every six months - I forget who said that, but it seems to be that way with the fair sex and I would hate to see men fall into the same trap.

Men who are interested in clothing, such as the chaps who post here, are interested in quality of construction because they plan to wear them for considerable length of time while women are more interested in a new look that was designed by a Designer.

I could provide examples, but they may be a bit off topic, I don't want to paint with too broad of a brush, nor do I want to get into gender bashing.

Cheers, Jim.
Why does there have to be a right or wrong on this? Select whichever style you prefer and wear it, or wear both styles for that matter. They are both acceptable, appropriate, and can look equally nice.

Cruiser
This thread says otherwise.
This thread seems to be saying above all else that it is best to be guided by personal taste rather than to determine the cut of your trouser based on popularity or fashion.

I have worn flat front trousers for many years and will continue to do so for the rest of my life.
I love flat fronts, but I may favor my trousers with a single (not particularly deep) pleat. I love the way the crease extends all the way up to the waistline, and I think it may contribute to a longer, leaner look.

But I've never been happy with any double-pleated trousers, and stopped purchasing them several years ago. I was able to successfully alter an old double-pleated Kiton suit trouser by having my tailor "dart" the secondary pleat. The material is a very dark charcoal, and it's practically indistinguishable. I doubt this would work on a lighter colored trouser or one with a pattern.
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