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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trust me, this is only out of necessity.

I purchased a Hickey Freeman suit online a few weeks ago. Great fabric at a great price. Unfortunately, the unfinished pants were too short to add cuffs -- probably why I got such a great price.

The suit has three pleats (also, another reason for the low cost), but because I had very little choice, I went with no cuffs. Usually, I am a cuffs man, through and through.

To counteract this look, I decided to have the suit tailored a bit more "modern." The jacket is as cut and defined as the tailor could possibly make it, without looking silly, of course.

My question is this: how big a sin is the three pleat + no cuffs look that I'm trying to pull it off? Is it even worth it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not really. The suit is a beautiful charcoal with a two-tone (faint grey and almost electric blue) pinstripe. It would be almost impossible to match.

I would just throw in the towel but it's such a great suit (minus the obvious misgivings).
 

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I agree that pleats almost require cuffs, certainly triple pleats. Flat front trousers look good with or without cuffs, but pleated trousers need cuffs.

Are you SURE there isn't enough material to add a cuff - it sounds a little strange that somebody would have shortenend the trousers and not left some extra inside the leg opening.

You may consider having the pleats removed if you really like the suit that much. Its an expensive job - I've paid about $90 in the past - but it may be your best bet. If you got a really good deal on the suit in the first place it may seem reasonable to pay for this alteration. Especially if you just won't ever end-up wearing the suit the way it is now.
 

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Are you SURE there isn't enough material to add a cuff - it sounds a little strange that somebody would have shortenend the trousers and not left some extra inside the leg opening.
Unfortunately, I can confirm that it happens. I just bought (and will have to return) a pair of unfinished, pleated trousers I wanted to have cuffed. When I brought them to my tailor, he told me it was going to be plain bottoms or nothing, as there just wasn't enough material with which to make a cuff. These were new pants, by the way, so it wasn't even a matter of them having been shortened previously.

I'm finding that most unfinished trousers come with 37" inseams, and that isn't enough for someone with long legs (I'm' 6'4").
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Same thing happened in this case. In fact, there's only about an inch left after finishing the pants with no cuff. Truly bizarre.

I had considered having my tailor take the pleat out, but some research led me to believe that this could very easily turn into a horror story. I guess if the suit isn't really wearable to begin with, what's the harm, right?
 

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Same thing happened in this case. In fact, there's only about an inch left after finishing the pants with no cuff. Truly bizarre.

I had considered having my tailor take the pleat out, but some research led me to believe that this could very easily turn into a horror story. I guess if the suit isn't really wearable to begin with, what's the harm, right?
You'll see people comment on how removing pleats can be dicey, and I'm sure people have had bead experiences. But I've had it done a couple of times and it worked beautifully - I think the trick is to using a great alterations tailor. This won't be a cheap job but you get what you pay for. I think the $100 is worth it if it makes this suit something that you will wear.
 

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Exactly. All you've got to lose is the $90 (or whatever) you'd spend trying to get the pants de-pleated, plus the pants that you wouldn't wear otherwise anyway.

Worst case scenario: you're out the money for the de-pleating, plus the pants -- but at least the jacket can be used. Best-case scenario: you've got a wearable suit with wearable pants.

If you've got the money lying around, I say go for it.
 

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Surely there will be occasions where you will want to
keep the jacket on and buttoned or at least not
flapping about. In those instances, no one will
notice whether the pants have pleats or not. :icon_smile:
 

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Get the pants done to length first of all. Since there is no other option at least have them finished, thats just a few bucks. Try it on and see how it looks, frankly you have a problem with it and many people here do as well but I wonder how many people "in the real world" would even notice. You sunk the money into it, had the jacket tweaked, had the pants finished - might as well keep it and wear it on occasion just to increase the rotation time on the rest of your suits.
 

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I've never understood this rule about pleats and cuffs. The only pair of cuffed pants that I've owned in my adult life were flat fronts and the only pair of pleated pants I've ever worn were tuxedo pants that had no cuffs. For what it's worth I later had the pleats taken out of the tuxedo pants.

Cruiser
 

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Curses . . .

Surely there will be occasions where you will want to
keep the jacket on and buttoned or at least not
flapping about. In those instances, no one will
notice whether the pants have pleats or not. :icon_smile:
. . . , foiled again! Just what I was going to say. I have continually been puzzled about concerns about the "look" of pleats or no pleats and what goes or does not go with them, when you are not going to take your coat off except when you will be seated behind your desk (except in the Oval Office, if the carpers rule), and no one will see or care.

Then there is the issue that evening dress trousers never have cuffs but often do have pleats. What a quandary! How can I go out in those?! Horrors! I'll just have to stay at home:(
 

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I don't think there is a problem with having pleats without cuffs. It's a very English thing to do. But the English wear double and single forward pleats without cuffs. I would assume your trousers have triple reverse pleats, as I've never seen triple forward pleats. If you do remove some or all of the pleats, you may also want to have the leg slimmed down. Most trousers with triple pleats are very baggy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have worn the suit just once already. No one made any negative comments. A few people in the office even complimented the pattern, but that was with the jacket on. To be honest, maybe 5% of people would even notice the pleats with the uncuffed bottom. But I fall into that 5%, so if it bothers me, it might need to changed. I will definitely give it a few more tries to see if I get used to it.
 

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I feel this is an American thing. You seem to be more fixated with rules of dress than us Brits. Over here people would just admire your suit and not care one way or the other about pleats and cuffs.
 

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I have worn the suit just once already. No one made any negative comments.
You're joking, right? You expected what, folks to run shrieking because you're cuffless with pleats?

This whole idea about pleats requiring cuffs is nonsense, without foundation and stupid.

However, bear in mind that if you have just one-inch of fabric beyond the leg hem you can make a faux cuff. If done properly, it cannot be detected. I have done it (not had it done) numerous times.

 

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You're joking, right? You expected what, folks to run shrieking because you're cuffless with pleats?

Hahahaha. Since I discovered AAAC and dressing as such, I have been described as

Shallow
Vain
and other horrible things

There are worse things in life, I suppose.

In any case, to the OP, see if you personally like your look with the cuffless pleated pants. If you personally don't like the look, rectify the situation by buying new trousers, adding faux cuffs, or having the pleats removed. Otherwise, be happy and enjoy your H-F suit! I love my H-F outfits myself, personally.
 
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