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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Currently, all my trosuers are flat front and it is getting a little boring so I was thinking of adding a pair or two of pleated, cuffed trousers. I was looking at a single pleat instead of the double pleat because it looks billows a lot less. The cuffs are also 1.25 inches instead of the usual 1.5 inches.

Do you think a 5' 8" 150 pound (average weight, not overly thin) guy can get away with pleated and cuffed pants? Or should I just stick to the flat fronts?
 

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Currently, all my trosuers are flat front and it is getting a little boring so I was thinking of adding a pair or two of pleated, cuffed trousers. I was looking at a single pleat instead of the double pleat because it looks billows a lot less. The cuffs are also 1.25 inches instead of the usual 1.5 inches.

Do you think a 5' 8" 150 pound (average weight, not overly thin) guy can get away with pleated and cuffed pants? Or should I just stick to the flat fronts?
I think cuffs are always an appropriate option. I typically stick to the 'flat front = no cuffs, pleats = cuffs' rule of thumb, but even then will break that depending on the style of pants. At 5' 8" you're certainly not tall, but you're not really that short - just stick to the smaller cuff. The bigger issue I have is that pleated pants tend to be baggier, and at 150 lbs it might be that more than the cuffs that make you look shorter than you are ...
 

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Currently, all my trosuers are flat front and it is getting a little boring so I was thinking of adding a pair or two of pleated, cuffed trousers. I was looking at a single pleat instead of the double pleat because it looks billows a lot less. The cuffs are also 1.25 inches instead of the usual 1.5 inches.

Do you think a 5' 8" 150 pound (average weight, not overly thin) guy can get away with pleated and cuffed pants? Or should I just stick to the flat fronts?
I'm 5'9" and about 136. I think pleats look very good on me. My only problem is long legs 32.5" inseam and a short rise. I think if your legs are really short they might not look so nice. How do you think you look? If you like the look buy a pair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The Duke of Windsor was about your size. In fact, perhaps a bit shorter. You might do a search on Google images to see if he carried it off. :rolleyes:

Double forward pleats preferred! Reverse if you can't find them.
Any opinion on single pleasts compared to double pleats? I have some suits that I picked up in England that are single pleat and they have less of a billow effect.

I would be getting these custom made, so I can lay on a lot of specifications. I was going to go for a slim cut, single forward pleat, 1.25 in cuff, with a slight break.

Any other suggestions?
 

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If I were you, I would stick to flat front pants and add a cuff of 1.5 to them. I started doing this this past year on all my FF pants and suits. I put a 1.75" cuff and have even put a 2" cuff on some of my slim fitting slacks and casual trousers. I don't own any pleated pants. If I did, I would probably get a slim fit double reverse pleat. I am 6'2" so that is why I have a bigger cuff, but If I were you I would not put less than 1.5" cuff on. Anything smaller looks funny to me.
 

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I'm 5'9" and about 136. I think pleats look very good on me. My only problem is long legs 32.5" inseam and a short rise. I think if your legs are really short they might not look so nice. How do you think you look? If you like the look buy a pair.
Wow, that is a long inseam I'm 5" taller than you and have an inch longer inseam.

Now I'm self conscious of my legs...
 

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You could go with pleats and no cuffs. The pleats will give you a nice vertical line and extra room and no cuffs will lengthen your legs. Some rules are meant to be broken when they don't suit you.

By the way, I prefer double pleats since the outer pleat helps the inner pleat stay in place.

Wear whatever pleases your eye. If you are uncertain, try the cuffs; you can always remove them afterwards.
 

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Any opinion on single pleasts compared to double pleats? I have some suits that I picked up in England that are single pleat and they have less of a billow effect.

I would be getting these custom made, so I can lay on a lot of specifications. I was going to go for a slim cut, single forward pleat, 1.25 in cuff, with a slight break.

Any other suggestions?
Suggestions? Yes, dress more like this man -

And while I'm joking, I'm also not joking. The Duke dressed very well, and enjoyed it. I don't know that I've ever seen him wearing long pants that weren't double forward pleats with cuffs, except for his black tie, which of course had no cuffs. If I wanted to do the research, I'd probably find he was somewhere between 5'6" and 5'8", and didn't have particularly long legs.

No, I wouldn't throw away your suits with single pleats. English fashion isn't currently very appealing to me. Even The Duke had his suit trousers cut in the U.S., as he didn't like what his London tailors did with them. But rather than having to replace your entire wardrobe, it can evolve toward greater perfection.

I have a strong bias to forward double pleats. I think they make anyone look better, and are more interesting. If you're thin, they make you look less so. If you're stout, they make you look thinner. Reverse pleats are OK, but not as good. Single pleats continue down the continuum. I don't like unpleated slacks.

Cuffs make slacks hang better. A particular advantage with any pair, particularly pleated.

The most important suggestion I can offer is to observe fashion, and then ignore it, dress as you find appealing and attractive. At the moment, men's fashions are pretty ugly. You can choose to ignore them. When they're more appealing, you can select individual items to include among your sartorial vocabulary.

I prefer 1 5/8" cuffs. If you have short legs, one way to maximize your line is to be certain your slacks have a high enough rise. Longer rise slacks that rest nearer to your natural waist will make you legs look longer. Avoid wearing them at the hips. My legs are so short my wife says they're virtual nubs. Cuffless trousers don't make them look longer, just sloppier. If your legs are shorter, in addition to a higher rise, the best way to maximize your vertical line is to have your slacks cut moderately full, and taper that gracefully to the cuff. (And frankly, The Duke's tailors might have done that a bit better!)
 

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At 5'6" this is always an issue for me. I have slacks with both cuffs and without. However I tend not to like the cuffs to hang too low. I prefer midway to 2/3 of the way up the heel of my shoe. I also prefer the leg opening to be 16.5 inches. This gives me a cleaner line cuffs or no cuffs.
 

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Any opinion on single pleasts compared to double pleats? I have some suits that I picked up in England that are single pleat and they have less of a billow effect.

I would be getting these custom made, so I can lay on a lot of specifications. I was going to go for a slim cut, single forward pleat, 1.25 in cuff, with a slight break.

Any other suggestions?
Cuffs should be proportionate to height and 1 1/2" would be the usual size for you.

You may prefer the look of single pleats but if your pleats billow they weren't made correctly. They should lie flat when you stand.
 

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I'm in total disagreement with the folowin from Flanderian ....

"The most important suggestion I can offer is to observe fashion, and then ignore it, dress as you find appealing and attractive. At the moment, men's fashions are pretty ugly. You can choose to ignore them. When they're more appealing, you can select individual items to include among your sartorial vocabulary."

What could be more appealing than the diverse styles of today. I have been wearing suits for over 50 years, and I find the rtw of today are not only diverse (something for everyone) but that many of the classical designs of men's clothing are available.

Full-cut options are available from many manufacturers such as H-F for premium quality to JAB for those with economy in mind. Brooks Bros 1818 suits are made for the very thin, average, and heftier man. Lapels, both notch and peak, for your taste, as with center vent or side vents. Also, double breasted or single breasted models are out there. In materials, for the first time in years, one can be worsteds or the heavier weight flannels. No pleats, single pleat, or double pleats (both forward and reverse) are available from different manufacturers. More style are now avaiable than ever in my suit wearing history. All you have to do is look for the style that best fits you. So how can one say "men's fashions are pretty ugly" when there is so much available?
 

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It is important that people who are short not wear trousers that are too long. ( The reverse is important for tall individuals, who should never have their trouser length too short.)The question of pleats vs plain front and cuffs vs plain bottoms are personal choices which are not affected by one's height.
 

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"The most important suggestion I can offer is to observe fashion, and then ignore it, dress as you find appealing and attractive. At the moment, men's fashions are pretty ugly. You can choose to ignore them. When they're more appealing, you can select individual items to include among your sartorial vocabulary."

What could be more appealing than the diverse styles of today. I have been wearing suits for over 50 years, and I find the rtw of today are not only diverse (something for everyone) but that many of the classical designs of men's clothing are available.

Full-cut options are available from many manufacturers such as H-F for premium quality to JAB for those with economy in mind. Brooks Bros 1818 suits are made for the very thin, average, and heftier man. Lapels, both notch and peak, for your taste, as with center vent or side vents. Also, double breasted or single breasted models are out there. In materials, for the first time in years, one can be worsteds or the heavier weight flannels. No pleats, single pleat, or double pleats (both forward and reverse) are available from different manufacturers. More style are now avaiable than ever in my suit wearing history. All you have to do is look for the style that best fits you. So how can one say "men's fashions are pretty ugly" when there is so much available?
We may not disagree as much as you think.

The issue hinges on how one defines fashion. If it is defined as the totality of merchandise available, there are certainly some very nice things that can be found. My perception of fashion is as a generalized aesthetic portrayed in a significant portion of advertising, designer's collections, and among product placements in TV and films. Much of that I find pretty ugly.

And I also believe those mediums have a substantial influence on the public, particularly the young. I know I looked to such things for guidance 50 years ago. And therein lies my central point: We are all free to develop our own aesthetic, and can benefit greatly from doing so. Hence my suggestion to, "observe fashion, and then ignore it, dress as you find appealing and attractive."
 

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I prefer 1 5/8" cuffs. QUOTE]

Personally I think 1.5" is too little cuff and 1 5/8" is too much so I get mine at 1 9/16".
You are really splitting hairs now. I always think a cuff looks better on pleated pants. I see some shorter guys in the 5'6"-5'8" range that don't cff their pants. The pants don't hang right and also are not properly tapered so they look baggy. I have recently started to cuff my FF pants and like the way it looks. I think a cuff is great on everything but casual chinos w/FF.
 
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