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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I picked up my first foray into bespoke clothing today. I've been working with Richard Lim's shop High Society.

I had ordered a sport coat with suiting (Super 130 cashmere / wool) and lining (vintage silk) I brought myself.

The C.M.T. (Cut / Make / Trim) rate for the sport coat is $480, plus 20 for working button holes and 15 for stitching around and down the lapel.

After reading this form endlessly I was able to ask some of the right questions to determine some key facts about the work at High Society.

My sport coat was cut from a custom pattern. The coat is fully canvased and most likely machine pad stitched (i think the right term) on the lapel. Richard Lim said he likes to use little to zero fusing on the coats.

This shoulder is not "natural", but was slightly padded after the basted fitting because of the protruding bony structure of my shoulder.

Here is a pic I took when i got home. The shirt is also from High Society, however, I didn't bother tucking it in because it wasn't worth wrinkling for a quick shot. It's 90 degrees in Los Angeles today, so I spared you my sweaty face and collar isn't "perfect". This pic should mainly be judged for the fit of the jacket. BTW I'm 6'0", size 40 chest 32/33 waist and about 170lbs.

I'm curious what you guys think. What would you like closer details of?

Here is the shirt by the way, without being tucked in I don't think it looks perfect. When standing straight, I can't notice the cloth touching my body, it really does float around me. C.M.T rate was $150



Disclaimer: I'm certainly not trying to hold a flame to the work of Savile Row or any of the truly high end artistans. I am however, trying to graduate from a dependence on label designers and enter the world of custom clothing.

What are some thoughts? I'd like to know what I should ask for next time in order to successfully guide this relationship in a positive direction (towards perfect fitment every time).

Thanks,
Alex
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks for the warm comments you guys! I took some more pics to get a better impression of fit and some details.

close of up of the suiting, note that the flaps are tuck in


Trying to capture the nice curve where the lapel ends:


side profile:


and back:



Thanks for the pointers so far, I'm starting to get an impression of what i want done next time.

-Alex
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The collar on the coat is too low, and the collarband on the shirt is too high.
The shirt collar is too high and the coat collar too low relative to each other? or relative to me?

I ask, because i don't plan on wearing this shirt with the sport coat, rather, only with suits. But i'm sure your observation would hold true either way. Thanks for the input.

-Alex
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Fantastic feedback. It's amazing the minutia that's involved in perfecting the fit. I'm captivated by it.

I didn't expect anything close to perfect on the first try. That is, I believe, half the fun of this process; finding that perfect balance, with my tailor, between fashion, form, function and comfort. While building a relationship in the process.

I welcome all further comments and critiques :)

-Alex
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I can't tell the quality from the photo, but I certainly like the fit. A friend recommended his work to me. I'm planning a trip to his shop soon. How can I reference your coat as an example of what I would like done? How does the coat feel on? Is it comfortable? Have you detected any negative quality issues?
The coat is a continental cut. That's how they refer to it. I told them to have very lightly padded shoulders (no padding was added till after the basted fitting) and high armholes.

The fit is awesome. The high armholes were an initial concern, considering the small margin for error. The right armhole was opened a quarter inch after i picked it up to make it "perfect". The best way to describe the fit is by saying that it doesn't hang off my shoulders, rather it floats around me. Extremely comfortable; tempting to pass out while wearing it.

As for quality issues, I haven't discovered any. The shirts after more research are less to my liking (the collar is too stiff for my tastes and I feel the talent is in the suit arena). I'm experimenting with other shirt makers at the moment.

I'll be returning to Richard Lim soon to get some London Lounge cloths made into suits.

-Alex
 
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