Picked up my first bespoke sport coat and shirt - By Richard Lim of High Society - Thoughts?

10514 Views 23 Replies 16 Participants Last post by M Go Crimson, Sep 27, 2013

coolal

Discussion Starter · Jan 12, 2009

So I picked up my first foray into bespoke clothing today. I've been working with Richard Lim's shop High Society.

I had ordered a sport coat with suiting (Super 130 cashmere / wool) and lining (vintage silk) I brought myself.

The C.M.T. (Cut / Make / Trim) rate for the sport coat is $480, plus 20 for working button holes and 15 for stitching around and down the lapel.

After reading this form endlessly I was able to ask some of the right questions to determine some key facts about the work at High Society.

My sport coat was cut from a custom pattern. The coat is fully canvased and most likely machine pad stitched (i think the right term) on the lapel. Richard Lim said he likes to use little to zero fusing on the coats.

This shoulder is not "natural", but was slightly padded after the basted fitting because of the protruding bony structure of my shoulder.

Here is a pic I took when i got home. The shirt is also from High Society, however, I didn't bother tucking it in because it wasn't worth wrinkling for a quick shot. It's 90 degrees in Los Angeles today, so I spared you my sweaty face and collar isn't "perfect". This pic should mainly be judged for the fit of the jacket. BTW I'm 6'0", size 40 chest 32/33 waist and about 170lbs.

I'm curious what you guys think. What would you like closer details of?

Here is the shirt by the way, without being tucked in I don't think it looks perfect. When standing straight, I can't notice the cloth touching my body, it really does float around me. C.M.T rate was $150

Disclaimer: I'm certainly not trying to hold a flame to the work of Savile Row or any of the truly high end artistans. I am however, trying to graduate from a dependence on label designers and enter the world of custom clothing.

What are some thoughts? I'd like to know what I should ask for next time in order to successfully guide this relationship in a positive direction (towards perfect fitment every time).

Thanks,
Alex

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omanae

· #4 · Jan 12, 2009

A couple quick thoughts.

first, the shirt seems a little big around the stomach for my taste, but it looks much better than off the rack I'm sure. I also wonder if the neck size is a little large, it seems as if it's going to be when you close it, but it's hard to tell.

The jacket appears to have a decent fit. I am curious about the shoulder. If you could have someone take a side shot of the shoulder that would help. I feel the jacket lenght is good, as is the waist suppression, it's natural and not overly exaggerated and is clean on the front. I would agree that there should be flaps on the pockets for my taste and the conventions of a sport coat I believe. Overall good though.

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omanae

· #13 · Jan 13, 2009

I'd agree that too much is better than too little shirt collar.

It seems as if the jacket shoulder hole is not quite forward enough. This may be the cause of some of the problems with the way the collar of the jacket is sitting as well. Try to reach your hand inside the front of the arm hole by your armpit and pull it forward to see if this helps it sit a little better. Next time see if you can have the shoulder cut a little more forward.

I like the fabric detail, nice choice for that jacket.

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