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Picked up my first bespoke sport coat and shirt - By Richard Lim of High Society - Thoughts?

10512 Views 23 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  M Go Crimson
So I picked up my first foray into bespoke clothing today. I've been working with Richard Lim's shop High Society.

I had ordered a sport coat with suiting (Super 130 cashmere / wool) and lining (vintage silk) I brought myself.

The C.M.T. (Cut / Make / Trim) rate for the sport coat is $480, plus 20 for working button holes and 15 for stitching around and down the lapel.

After reading this form endlessly I was able to ask some of the right questions to determine some key facts about the work at High Society.

My sport coat was cut from a custom pattern. The coat is fully canvased and most likely machine pad stitched (i think the right term) on the lapel. Richard Lim said he likes to use little to zero fusing on the coats.

This shoulder is not "natural", but was slightly padded after the basted fitting because of the protruding bony structure of my shoulder.

Here is a pic I took when i got home. The shirt is also from High Society, however, I didn't bother tucking it in because it wasn't worth wrinkling for a quick shot. It's 90 degrees in Los Angeles today, so I spared you my sweaty face and collar isn't "perfect". This pic should mainly be judged for the fit of the jacket. BTW I'm 6'0", size 40 chest 32/33 waist and about 170lbs.

I'm curious what you guys think. What would you like closer details of?

Here is the shirt by the way, without being tucked in I don't think it looks perfect. When standing straight, I can't notice the cloth touching my body, it really does float around me. C.M.T rate was $150

Disclaimer: I'm certainly not trying to hold a flame to the work of Savile Row or any of the truly high end artistans. I am however, trying to graduate from a dependence on label designers and enter the world of custom clothing.

What are some thoughts? I'd like to know what I should ask for next time in order to successfully guide this relationship in a positive direction (towards perfect fitment every time).

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The jacket is really good, the shoulders are very symmetrical, nice shape without being too fitted, its just right. I like the besom pockets sans flaps, very sleek looking. the suiting is very interesting, can we get a close-up of the texture, what's it made of? All told its a hip jacket, more for socializing than work I would say.

As for the shirt, the fit is good, especially the body of the shirt, it somehow looks like the sleeves are a bit wide in the bicep and then get more conformal in the forearms. The collar is substantial, I would wear it with a tie because its a bit big when open. I would also wear a v-neck t-shirt under it to pop that white even brighter. What does it look like buttoned and buttoned with a tie (in both cases with the jacket).

really nice....nice sleeve length on both as well.
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That raises the question - how much shirt collar should stick up above the coat collar traditionally? None? half an inch? I don't know off the top of my head what's really normal, is there a normal?
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