[coolal]

So I picked up my first foray into bespoke clothing today. I've been working with Richard Lim's shop High Society.

I had ordered a sport coat with suiting (Super 130 cashmere / wool) and lining (vintage silk) I brought myself.

The C.M.T. (Cut / Make / Trim) rate for the sport coat is $480, plus 20 for working button holes and 15 for stitching around and down the lapel.

After reading this form endlessly I was able to ask some of the right questions to determine some key facts about the work at High Society.

My sport coat was cut from a custom pattern. The coat is fully canvased and most likely machine pad stitched (i think the right term) on the lapel. Richard Lim said he likes to use little to zero fusing on the coats.

This shoulder is not "natural", but was slightly padded after the basted fitting because of the protruding bony structure of my shoulder.

Here is a pic I took when i got home. The shirt is also from High Society, however, I didn't bother tucking it in because it wasn't worth wrinkling for a quick shot. It's 90 degrees in Los Angeles today, so I spared you my sweaty face and collar isn't "perfect". This pic should mainly be judged for the fit of the jacket. BTW I'm 6'0", size 40 chest 32/33 waist and about 170lbs.

I'm curious what you guys think. What would you like closer details of?

Here is the shirt by the way, without being tucked in I don't think it looks perfect. When standing straight, I can't notice the cloth touching my body, it really does float around me. C.M.T rate was $150



Disclaimer: I'm certainly not trying to hold a flame to the work of Savile Row or any of the truly high end artistans. I am however, trying to graduate from a dependence on label designers and enter the world of custom clothing.

What are some thoughts? I'd like to know what I should ask for next time in order to successfully guide this relationship in a positive direction (towards perfect fitment every time).

Thanks,
Alex

 

[Bonhamesque]

Well it appears to me that your first foray into tailored clothing is a fairly successful one.
It's hard to see much from such a dark photo but what I can see is that the sleeve length looks pretty much perfect.
The lapel width is nice as is the high notch, the sleeves are nice and slim and the crown looks good.
The jacket appears to fit you quite well overall although it's hard to judge the length of it when it's worn with jeans.

Personally I prefer my pockets to have flaps and be slanted but that's just personal taste. I also like my jackets tighter/more shaped around the waist but again that's just my preferences.
That's a very good first purchase though, well done.
I hope it encourages you to continue down this road.

 

[deanayer]

The jacket is really good, the shoulders are very symmetrical, nice shape without being too fitted, its just right. I like the besom pockets sans flaps, very sleek looking. the suiting is very interesting, can we get a close-up of the texture, what's it made of? All told its a hip jacket, more for socializing than work I would say.

As for the shirt, the fit is good, especially the body of the shirt, it somehow looks like the sleeves are a bit wide in the bicep and then get more conformal in the forearms. The collar is substantial, I would wear it with a tie because its a bit big when open. I would also wear a v-neck t-shirt under it to pop that white even brighter. What does it look like buttoned and buttoned with a tie (in both cases with the jacket).

really nice....nice sleeve length on both as well.

 

[omanae]

A couple quick thoughts.

first, the shirt seems a little big around the stomach for my taste, but it looks much better than off the rack I'm sure. I also wonder if the neck size is a little large, it seems as if it's going to be when you close it, but it's hard to tell.

The jacket appears to have a decent fit. I am curious about the shoulder. If you could have someone take a side shot of the shoulder that would help. I feel the jacket lenght is good, as is the waist suppression, it's natural and not overly exaggerated and is clean on the front. I would agree that there should be flaps on the pockets for my taste and the conventions of a sport coat I believe. Overall good though.

 

[ToryBoy]

Almost my fave fit: single-breasted, 2 button, straight pockets with no flaps. However, I would prefer a tighter fit and a natural shoulder.

You have done well, both fit well. The shirt may look different (better) if it tucked in.

If you plan to get more things from them, show them the jacket and shirt and say I want the same fit.

 

[coolal]

Thanks for the warm comments you guys! I took some more pics to get a better impression of fit and some details.

close of up of the suiting, note that the flaps are tuck in


Trying to capture the nice curve where the lapel ends:


side profile:


and back:



Thanks for the pointers so far, I'm starting to get an impression of what i want done next time.

-Alex

 

[PedanticTurkey]

The collar on the coat is too low, and the collarband on the shirt is too high.

 

[coolal]

The collar on the coat is too low, and the collarband on the shirt is too high.

The shirt collar is too high and the coat collar too low relative to each other? or relative to me?

I ask, because i don't plan on wearing this shirt with the sport coat, rather, only with suits. But i'm sure your observation would hold true either way. Thanks for the input.

-Alex

 

[Bonhamesque]

The collar on the coat is too low, and the collarband on the shirt is too high.

...for YOUR liking.

 

[Bird's One View]

I like the shirt collar. It could be even higher, and I would still like it. I might ask for a higher collar on the next jacket.

But this is the kind of thing you have to decide for yourself.

 

[deanayer]

That raises the question - how much shirt collar should stick up above the coat collar traditionally? None? half an inch? I don't know off the top of my head what's really normal, is there a normal?

 

[Bird's One View]

I've seen half an inch recommended.

Too much shirt collar looks better to me than too little.

 

[omanae]

I'd agree that too much is better than too little shirt collar.

It seems as if the jacket shoulder hole is not quite forward enough. This may be the cause of some of the problems with the way the collar of the jacket is sitting as well. Try to reach your hand inside the front of the arm hole by your armpit and pull it forward to see if this helps it sit a little better. Next time see if you can have the shoulder cut a little more forward.

I like the fabric detail, nice choice for that jacket.

 

[Falconboy]

I won't critique other than to say I like it and thank you for posting pictures of Mr. Lim's work. I might want to try him out.

Thanks

 

[Orsini]

That raises the question - how much shirt collar should stick up above the coat collar traditionally? None? half an inch? I don't know off the top of my head what's really normal, is there a normal?

Half an inch is the old saw. Ideally, this will approximately match the linen showing at the jacket sleeve. Now, if you fancy 3/8" of linen at the cuff, as did JFK, then what to do at the collar? Maybe someone will favor us with a photo...

 

[coolal]

Fantastic feedback. It's amazing the minutia that's involved in perfecting the fit. I'm captivated by it.

I didn't expect anything close to perfect on the first try. That is, I believe, half the fun of this process; finding that perfect balance, with my tailor, between fashion, form, function and comfort. While building a relationship in the process.

I welcome all further comments and critiques

-Alex

 

[rpardz]

I like the shirt texture very much. I tend to go for pinpoint or a herringbone for more formal shirts, but the pattern on your white shirt is very interesting.

That'll look nice in a formal setting.

I like the jacket sleeve length as well. Although I personally always wear double-cuff shirts when the shirt protrudes below the sleeve.

Overall an impressive jacket, I'd be more than happy with that myself.

 

[chava]

I can't tell the quality from the photo, but I certainly like the fit. A friend recommended his work to me. I'm planning a trip to his shop soon. How can I reference your coat as an example of what I would like done? How does the coat feel on? Is it comfortable? Have you detected any negative quality issues?

 

[coolal]

I can't tell the quality from the photo, but I certainly like the fit. A friend recommended his work to me. I'm planning a trip to his shop soon. How can I reference your coat as an example of what I would like done? How does the coat feel on? Is it comfortable? Have you detected any negative quality issues?

The coat is a continental cut. That's how they refer to it. I told them to have very lightly padded shoulders (no padding was added till after the basted fitting) and high armholes.

The fit is awesome. The high armholes were an initial concern, considering the small margin for error. The right armhole was opened a quarter inch after i picked it up to make it "perfect". The best way to describe the fit is by saying that it doesn't hang off my shoulders, rather it floats around me. Extremely comfortable; tempting to pass out while wearing it.

As for quality issues, I haven't discovered any. The shirts after more research are less to my liking (the collar is too stiff for my tastes and I feel the talent is in the suit arena). I'm experimenting with other shirt makers at the moment.

I'll be returning to Richard Lim soon to get some London Lounge cloths made into suits.

-Alex

 

[ALF TUPPER]

The coat is a continental cut. That's how they refer to it. I told them to have very lightly padded shoulders (no padding was added till after the basted fitting) and high armholes.

The fit is awesome. The high armholes were an initial concern, considering the small margin for error. The right armhole was opened a quarter inch after i picked it up to make it "perfect". The best way to describe the fit is by saying that it doesn't hang off my shoulders, rather it floats around me. Extremely comfortable; tempting to pass out while wearing it.

As for quality issues, I haven't discovered any. The shirts after more research are less to my liking (the collar is too stiff for my tastes and I feel the talent is in the suit arena). I'm experimenting with other shirt makers at the moment.

I'll be returning to Richard Lim soon to get some London Lounge cloths made into suits.

-Alex

Alex did you ever get to go back to Mr. Lim with London Lounge cloths?