Oxxford suit in super 100's

Super 100's refers to the "fineness" of the wool, not the weight. You can have super 100's that can be heavy and super 100's that can be light. Not all super 100's are the same weight. Many individuals find that there is a weight that will work for them for most of the year. I want my customers to buy the heaviest weight they can comfortably wear. For some it is a light weight and for others a heavier weight. The weight is only part of what I call the "comfort formula". The nature of the weave and the finish of the cloth are as important as the weight.
Paul Winston
Winston Tailors
www.chipp2.com

Max Inseam said:

Paul, would you elaborate on this? If I come into your shop in November looking for next Summer's suit, I can comfortably wear a heavier wool then (in November) than what will be comfortable next Summer. How do you judge what a customer will find comfortable two seasons off?

Click to expand...

It is incumbent on each individual to know what works for him. Another important part of the "comfort formula" is one's mindset. If an individual is convinced that he will be uncomfortable wearing a particular weight they will be uncomfortable. Many of my customers wear 12 ounce ( and heavier) in the summer. For warm weather wear they select cloth with an open weave and a smooth clear finish. Unfinished worsted would not work because the "fuzzy" finish against your skin would send your mind a message that it is too warm. A nailhead, if held up to the light, shows you its air flow. When you deal in the better quality cloth, H Lesser & Son for example, a 12 ounce clear finish feels as light as other makers 10 ounce. No one knows exactly what will work for another person. There are likey hoods and that I can reach by combining what a customer says and my 48 years of menswear experience. The business is an art, not a science.
Paul Winston
Winston Tailors
www.chipp2.com