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Might be just me, but I associate the one-button peak lapel style with tuxedos. The look seems very formal on a day suit. Or is your suit going to be a tuxedo? I couldn't tell for sure by your post.

Here in the U.S., peak lapel one-button suits began to appear en mass in the later '50s. They tended to be "continental" in style. As lapels got thinner and jackets got shorter, the peak lapel one-button became more prevalent. It was often wedded to sharkskin, for some reason.

To this day, Beverly Hills "tailor" Jack Taylor's peak lapel SB jackets come with one button only. He's been making them this way for fifty years, and isn't about to stop now.

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the fishtails do make it rather tux-esque, although we just did a fitting on a one button peak lapel suit with a navy birdseye, the fabric looks great and helps keep it looking like suiting instead of a dinner jacket.
 

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I'm thinking of having another suit made,and want to do something a bit different.I was thinking navy blue one button peak lapel jacket with fishtail back trousers.Thoughts?
I think two buttons better balance a peak lapel, and if I were to get fishtail's, I'd get a waist coat to wear over them. Apparel Arts showed some interesting waistcoat combinations with peak lapel SB's. In addition to the common SB collarless version, I belive I also recall seeing a DB shawl collar version with A SB peak lapel that looked rather smart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think two buttons better balance a peak lapel, and if I were to get fishtail's, I'd get a waist coat to wear over them. Apparel Arts showed some interesting waistcoat combinations with peak lapel SB's. In addition to the common SB collarless version, I belive I also recall seeing a DB shawl collar version with A SB peak lapel that looked rather smart.
I think I will go with two buttons and get a waistcoat (maybe DB with peak lapels).
 

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I think two buttons better balance a peak lapel, and if I were to get fishtail's, I'd get a waist coat to wear over them. Apparel Arts showed some interesting waistcoat combinations with peak lapel SB's. In addition to the common SB collarless version, I belive I also recall seeing a DB shawl collar version with A SB peak lapel that looked rather smart.
I 2nd the 2 button peak. I think the 1 button peak is best left with a tuxedo only. I'm not crazy about the fishtail back - but that's just me.
 

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I'm thinking of having another suit made,and want to do something a bit different.I was thinking navy blue one button peak lapel jacket with fishtail back trousers.Thoughts?
I don't think there's anything wrong with that. The single button peak lapel jacket is at least in fashion right now so people won't think you odd. I recently had one done in dark grey so it can double as a stroller jacket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the great photos. Can't be sure, but I think that's a shawl collar DB waistcoat, and I believed the OP was discussing the possibility of a peak lapel DB waistcoat, with SB peak lapel jacket.
I was thinking of a peak lapel,I prefer to match lapel types.

Valid point.
 

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Can't be sure, but I think that's a shawl collar DB waistcoat..
I can understand why you'd get that impression. The lapels tend to "belly"; in other words, they're rounded. In varying degrees, this is typical of double-breasted waistcoats, especially those without a very low gorge. However, in the waistcoat shown above, the lapels do peak where they reach toward the collar.

Another, more extreme example:

(Too bad the photos don't show the peaks.)

How do I know that the waistcoats in these photos have peak lapels? Here's the rule of thumb that tailors tend to follow:

  • If the suit jacket has notch lapels, then the waistcoat (single or double-breasted) has either no lapels, a shawl collar, or notch lapels.

  • If the suit jacket has peak lapels, then the waistcoat will have either no lapels (if single-breasted), or peak lapels (if double-breasted).
  • .
  • If the waistcoat belongs with a tuxedo or evening tails, then the waistcoat can (and usually does) have a shawl collar on both single and double-breasted models. This is the case even when the tuxedo jacket or tailcoat has peak lapels.

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I've added some needed detail here, FWIW. Prepare to get dizzy:

1. If a suit jacket or morning coat has notch lapels, then the waistcoat (single or double-breasted) will have either no lapels or a shawl collar (pretty unusual). A single-breasted waistcoat can also have notch lapels in this case.

2. If a suit jacket has peak lapels, then the waistcoat will have either no lapels (if single-breasted), or peak lapels (if double-breasted).

3. If a morning coat has peak lapels, then the waistcoat (single-breasted) will have either no lapels or notch (yes, notch) lapels. If the waistcoat is double-breasted, it will have either no lapels, a shawl collar (unusual), or peak lapels.

4. If the waistcoat belongs with a tuxedo or evening tails, then the waistcoat can (and usually does) have a shawl collar on both single and double-breasted models. This is the case even when the tuxedo jacket or tailcoat has peak lapels. However, I have seen rare examples of tuxedo and white tie waistcoats --single and double-breasted-- with peak lapels.

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