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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Dear Friends

Thank you to those who have recently asked me about my Savile Row, or rather 'off-Row', made to measure suit experiences. I thought I would get a fresh set of hopefully clearer photos to help you in your research, and in some way attempt to repay the invaluable assistance which this board has already provided to me.

After my own preliminary research of made to measure tailoring some time ago, and some insightful conversations with some of the most knowledgeable members of this forum, I decided to visit Jasper Littman at the Holland and Sherry office at 9 Savile Row.

I commissioned a first suit in a charcoal pinstripe. At this time I was somewhat aware of my own preferences and requirements, but I was also relying on Mr Littman's advice, guidance and tailoring experience. All I did know was that I wanted a suit which was as slim as possible - as the lack of appropriate slim suits available anywhere else was my primary reason for pursuing personal tailoring in the first place. However, Mr Littman slowly helped me to realise that a garment which fits like a second skin would not be a desirable thing at all. He helped me to appreciate the way in which a suit should compliment and balance one's bodily proportions - even that of a slim gentleman. Of course, if you do happen to visit Jasper Littman yourself as a result of this information, then please do mention my name to him!

So I have set out below a number of snapshots of each of the three suits in their chronological order of birth. Also pictured, in each suit photo, and in two of its own photos at the end, is a bespoke shirt made by Sean O'Flynn of Sackville Street. It was the second shirt which has made for me, following the first trial shirt.

I hope these photos might be useful to anyone undertaking their own research. If you have any comments, questions, and especially criticisms, then please let me know. I look forward to your responses.

Thank you for looking.

Charcoal Pinstripe - Holland & Sherry Snowy River collection

Grey Sharkskin - Holland & Sherry Target collection

Blue sharkskin - H Lesser Golden Bale collection

Bespoke Shirt - Sean O'Flynn, Sackville Street
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you, gentlemen. :icon_smile:

The third suit is supposed to be of exactly the same bodily dimensions as the second suit. However, for those of you who are familiar with Wensum's manufacturing techniques, their methods are hardly a science, and my opinion, vary significantly in sizes and quality for no apparent reason.

I suppose I am just lucky that the third suit turned out to fall especially well. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Good looking suits/shirt. However as you and your suits are so slim may I politely suggest a slightly less "fat" tie would look more balanced :icon_smile_big:
Do you think the difference in tie width is noticeable between that of ensembles 1+3 and that of ensemble 2?

Do you think that this same narrower tie in the shirt-only photos still looks out of proportion with the shirt?

Thanks for the feedback.
 

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In my opinion, the third suit -- solid navy -- is the best of the three. I'm not a huge fan of the pinstripes, unless they're subtle, as they always make me look wider and fatter.

As for the neckware, I honestly think the third tie with the solid navy suit is the thinnest-looking and certainly the best of the three. Ths second tie isn't my cup of tea, though it's certainly very London-like. I prefer regimental ties.
 

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Nice suits and shirt. Sharkskin is a great cloth and as for Lessers Golden Bale...I am very impressed. The silhouette that you have achieved with JL would look very good as a Sb1 peak...just a thought.
My only criticism would be that with such well fitting and proportioned suits and shirt, a slimmer and more discreetly patterned tie would be more desirable. A nice grenadine perhaps?

W_B
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Nice suits Mr. Pipps. May I enquire as to the amount of money required for such items from Mr. Littman?

What cloth is the shirt made from? Alumo?
The cloth is made form Monti. It's a textured white, with a feint and thin white stripe throughout. It feels great. But it creases so easily due to the quality and softness of the cotton.

Regarding the prices - PM sent. :icon_smile_wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
In my opinion, the third suit -- solid navy -- is the best of the three. I'm not a huge fan of the pinstripes, unless they're subtle, as they always make me look wider and fatter.
The pinstripes in this charcoal suit are really very feint for this style, and the feint white on the charcoal background really do make it look more tasteful than a thick white chalkstripe in my opinion.

Do you think those stripes have a fattening effect on me? (I wish they would, because I desperately need it!)

As for the neckware, I honestly think the third tie with the solid navy suit is the thinnest-looking and certainly the best of the three. Ths second tie isn't my cup of tea, though it's certainly very London-like.
Thank you. It's not quite what I would naturally lean towards, either. But it does of course seem to me to be the right sort of business tie for the less formal meetings.

Thanks for the feedback. :icon_smile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Nice suits and shirt. Sharkskin is a great cloth and as for Lessers Golden Bale...I am very impressed. The silhouette that you have achieved with JL would look very good as a Sb1 peak...just a thought.
My only criticism would be that with such well fitting and proportioned suits and shirt, a slimmer and more discreetly patterned tie would be more desirable. A nice grenadine perhaps?

W_B
WB, thanks so much for dropping by. I definitely agree with you about the black tie template with the Lesser suit! :icon_smile:

I think you're absolutely right about the tie situation. Ties for business, and all that. And it's incredibly difficult to even wear a tie in my office... let's not even go there! :icon_pale:

So I must say that if you feel the only area for improvement is the choice of tie, then I feel both relieved and delighted to have succeed with probably the hardest part - the suit! :icon_smile_big:
 

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Pipps, they're excellent! I really am now convinced about JL and will be going there just as soon as I can! Brilliant, well done on three great suits.

The silhouette that you have achieved with JL would look very good as a Sb1 peak...just a thought.W_B
And that's exactly what I'm looking for and my thought to a tee. I think it would look fantastic.

I think you're absolutely right about the tie situation.
Yes, a good spot. So obvious when pointed out!
 

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The pinstripes in this charcoal suit are really very feint for this style, and the feint white on the charcoal background really do make it look more tasteful than a thick white chalkstripe in my opinion.

Do you think those stripes have a fattening effect on me? (I wish they would, because I desperately need it!)
They're fine. I have to ask, are the pockets angled like hacking pockets? I like them, though the pocket on the right seems a bit lower in the first picture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
They're fine. I have to ask, are the pockets angled like hacking pockets? I like them, though the pocket on the right seems a bit lower in the first picture.
You're absolutely right. I asked for the pockets to be angled like the pockets of a hacking jacket. I understand that it's also desirable with a slimmer suit, as it helps with the angles around the waist area.

The right side in the first picture probably just looks a little lower due to wearer error. Both were intended to be the positioned at the same height.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
they have done a good job on the right low shoulder. did they do a right hip higher?
My dear Holmes! I'm amazed - how on earth did you know!

I know that the right shoulder is positioned a little lower on the third suit. Although as far as I'm aware, the hip was not considered to be require this particular attention.

Though what do you think?
 
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