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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have experience with these? I'm considering one, but I'm still on the fence about placing an order. I don't live in Buffalo, so I would have to do mail order. Does anyone know who makes these suits? They are 3/8 lined, 3 button sack suits. The gentleman I spoke to over the phone said they were fully canvassed and made in the USA. Since they retail for $495, I'm wondering if something is off about them. He agreed to send me a fabric swatch in the mail (which isn't going to tell me a whole lot) but couldn't do pictures of the suit because the store is too busy at the moment.
 

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Does anyone have experience with these? I'm considering one, but I'm still on the fence about placing an order. I don't live in Buffalo, so I would have to do mail order. Does anyone know who makes these suits? They are 3/8 lined, 3 button sack suits. The gentleman I spoke to over the phone said they were fully canvassed and made in the USA. Since they retail for $495, I'm wondering if something is off about them. He agreed to send me a fabric swatch in the mail (which isn't going to tell me a whole lot) but couldn't do pictures of the suit because the store is too busy at the moment.
The price leads me to guess either Oritsky or Hart Schaffner Marx. Just a guess.
 

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Just out of curiosity, anyone here ever tried one of the worsted suits from H. Freeman on their website? I generally think of H. Freeman as being similar in quality to Southwick, though these seem to be running a couple hundred cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I've asked about who sources items before and was told they can't reveal that. If it is indeed Hartmarx, then I don't think the suits are fully canvassed, as it is my understanding that Hartmarx doesn't make a fully canvassed suit. They also have some Southwick suits on their website that are described as being fully canvassed and it is my understanding that Southwick mostly makes half-canvas suits. I wouldn't be shocked if the owners are confused about what makes a suit fully canvassed. Either that, or Southwick is making fully canvassed suits specially for them.

Oddly enough, when I asked for actual measurements of the suit in inches (as we all know sizing varies from brand to brand) the gentleman I spoke to over the phone seemed hesitant...he told me the chest in inches on a 39S was 39 inches. That doesn't exactly inspire confidence about buying. I understand they're busy but it wouldn't have taken them but a few minutes to measure a couple of suits for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I called again today and spoke with a much more helpful gentleman on the phone this time. I'm still not clear on the canvas issue from speaking to them. He admitted that some of their suits used a "half-canvas" but that there was "nothing" in terms of interfacing from the pocket area and below when I asked about fusing on a 3/8 lined suit. That seems strange to me, though I do have one fully lined suit in my closet that is made this way.

Basically, they have lots of NOS suits and have used different manufacturers. The manufacturer's are Corbin (old U.S. manufacture), Deansgate (said they were a now defunct U.S. made manufacturer), H.Oritsky, and H.Freeman. I don't really know a whole lot about these manufacturers, other than Corbin now makes their suits offshore and that H.Freeman is capable of making a fully canvassed suit. The Freeman suits are also a bit more expensive than my current budget. If anyone could comment on the quality of these suits (especially Corbin and Oritsky), I'd appreciate it.

One thing that really struck me was how different these older sizes are compare to more modern suits. For example, a 39S Deansgate measured up with a 39" chest and 16.5" shoulders. Most 39S jackets today, including a recent blazer I have from Press would have a 42" - 43" chest. Even an Oritzsky 40S measured up with a 41.25" chest.
 

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So I called again today and spoke with a much more helpful gentleman on the phone this time. I'm still not clear on the canvas issue from speaking to them. He admitted that some of their suits used a "half-canvas" but that there was "nothing" in terms of interfacing from the pocket area and below when I asked about fusing on a 3/8 lined suit. That seems strange to me, though I do have one fully lined suit in my closet that is made this way.

Basically, they have lots of NOS suits and have used different manufacturers. The manufacturer's are Corbin (old U.S. manufacture), Deansgate (said they were a now defunct U.S. made manufacturer), H.Oritsky, and H.Freeman. I don't really know a whole lot about these manufacturers, other than Corbin now makes their suits offshore and that H.Freeman is capable of making a fully canvassed suit. The Freeman suits are also a bit more expensive than my current budget. If anyone could comment on the quality of these suits (especially Corbin and Oritsky), I'd appreciate it.

One thing that really struck me was how different these older sizes are compare to more modern suits. For example, a 39S Deansgate measured up with a 39" chest and 16.5" shoulders. Most 39S jackets today, including a recent blazer I have from Press would have a 42" - 43" chest. Even an Oritzsky 40S measured up with a 41.25" chest.
The Corbin 3b sack model was called the Corinthian. Workhorse suit. Nothing fancy about the off-the-rack version in their "separates" program. Basic worsted wool: not great for the heat of summer, and not very good during the cold winter months. I wear mine during the weeks of late fall and early spring. Offered in grey, a grey stripe, navy, a navy stripe, and a grey glen plaid. Maybe a pindot or tickweave as well.

Ditto for the older Oritsky suits I own, but a bit more shaping around the waist.

Both feature(d) a natural shoulder, but not the slope that some among us prefer. There's some padding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What kind of canvas was in the Oritsky vs. the Corbin? In this case, the older Corbin I'm considering is a fully lined suit while the Oritsky is one of the 3/8 lined models OConnell's carries.

Interestingly enough, here is some info I gleaned from the proprietor of Dann Online. I saw Oritsky suits on his website though google so I called him. He said Oritsky is no longer and the do not sell the line anymore. Apparently Oritsky and Corbin have merged, though the current company is doing things differently as they manufacture fused chestpiece suits in Chile now.

Of the older Corbin / Oritsky suits he had this to say: the older US made Oritsky was one of the best value suits he has ever carried, but the trousers often needed lots of alterations because they did not have a good taper in the thigh and below the knee. He said the old Corbin trousers had a better cut, but Corbin jackets had fusing in them whereas Oritsky had none at all in their older US made suits.

Also, when I asked about H.Freeman, he said the Freeman suit seperates that he sells, including a 3 button rolled sack, are half-canvassed / half-fused the same way current Southwick suits are.
 

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Those suits have to be VERY old stock- inexcess of 12 yrs old- if they are H. Oritsky with full canvas. The only catch is the trousers in the H. O.'s, which have a long stride in larger sizes (over a 34 waist) , roughly next size up length in the rise. H.O. is a great suit- not Corbin Corinthian by the way...what was the old 2button sack they offered; Plymouth or Columbia?

Southwick does offer Full Canvas still - I imagine Sewell does as well.


At one time Hart did full canvas; from the Baltimore Factory.

Corbin was heavier canvas but the H. O.'s had a tendency to breathe better all around- either of the two are great suits! Damned shame you cant get either MTM today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I don't know a whole lot about Corbin, but a 2 button sack sounds interesting...

Ended up pulling the trigger on a H.Oritsky 3/8 lined dark gray pinstripe...should arrive next week. Hopefully it works out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update: Ordering a suit sight unseen from O'Connell's

Received the suit today.

The suit is a 3/8 lined dark gray (not quite charcoal) beaded pinstripe apparently made by the old H.Oritsky in the USA. On the price tag it says "Barton". I'm guessing that's the model name. The brand name tag inside the suit is a red and black O'Connell's tag. The suit is packaged in a thin red reusable zippered plastic garment bag with an O'Connell's logo and a little clear plastic window.

I wouldn't be surprised if the suit had been sitting on the rack for awhile. For one, the fabric is nothing like the fabrics you see on any recently made suit. It's much more robust than any "super" fabric I've ever seen. No idea about the thread count, fabric weight, or who made the fabric because there is no fabric label. I agree with Harris' assessment of the fabric not being the best for summer, but not being a winter fabric either.

The shoulders are fairly natural and narrow (17.5" on a 40S) with *very* minimal padding. The suit is cut with a narrower chest, a very slightly pinched midsection across the center button and a slightly flared bottom.

I bought a 40S, usually I would take a 39S or even a 38S in any modern brand of suit. I believe the suit is fully canvassed top to bottom. There is a third, thick layer of something (canvas, no idea what kind) between the two lawyers of wool in the area below the bottom button. There are just two buttons sewn on each sleeve - not three of four as on newer jackets. The pants are unlined and appear to be straight cut with little if any taper. I may have them tapered below the knee though.

The suit is going to the tailor tomorrow morning. On first glance, the jacket appeared to fit with no alterations other than sleeve shortening, but the back ripples a little more than I'd prefer when I tried it on over a Press OCBD (that is a little poofy in the back as most OCBDs are) and some short rise LE khakis. I'll see how it lays with the shirt tucked into the suit trousers and get the tailor's advice on whether or not the side seams of the jacket should be let out slightly.
 

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Only two buttons on the sleeves? That's definately old. I have seen jackets from the 1960s with only two buttons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes, just two buttons. I don't think the suit is THAT old though because if you look through their website and customer pictures you'll notice many of the suits have only 2 buttons on the sleeve. My guess is OLC has them made that way.

Also the lapels aren't quite as skinny as they were in the 60s. They're not wide and dated looking though, and I wouldn't be shocked if the suit was 15 years old or so.
 

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Corbin

Gentlemen

If old stock Corbin, then this is a great buy as well. Corbin goes back to the days of Sero, Gant, Creighton shirts. The Corbin was known for slacks, and suits. As Majer Who also did nice slacks then as well.
Nice day
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Took the suit to the tailor today. The side seams will be left alone after all. I tried on the trousers for the first time and was surprised to see how comparatively slim and almost "drainpipe" like they were...they are definitely not cut like pants you see on current BB or Press sack suits. The leg opening is noticeably slimmer. The rise is a little longer than I would've expected (the suit is a 40S)and the waist runs a bit small in trousers, so they will have to be let out a little bit. Oh, and the lapel buttonhole is a machine stitch faux straight hole. It is possible to construct a real buttonhole there though.

Since no one talks about O'Connell's suits here, I will try to post pictures at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The suit is at the tailor so I can't measure the lapels right now. As a rough estimate, I'd say they are somewhere between 2.75"-3" wide. They are definitely not 3.5"-4" lapels you see on 70s-80s dated looking suits or the ultra skinny 2" lapels on vintage 60s era suits. I'd imagine the width of the lapel is going to be proportionate to the size of jacket though. So, if you wear a smaller or larger jacket, the lapel may be a little smaller or wider.
 
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