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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One of my New Years resolutions is to dress better, so I joined this forum to learn. First thing is a new suit to wear to some upcoming weddings. I don't wear suits on a regular basis, so I only want one for now.

I wear a 38 jacket and 30 pants, which severely limits my selection in the local stores. I wasn't impressed with anything in the normal department stores. The best option I found locally as far as value was a Manzoni suit for $600, but they didn't have the style I was looking for.

I decided to order a suit online. I got this one for $800. It is 84% wool and 16% silk. The color is charcoal with faint blue pinstripes. Is this a decent suit overall? It is possible to return it and try something else.

Obviously, the sleeves need to be shortened, but does the jacket fit correctly otherwise? The jacket length seems a bit long compared with my arms, but I have short arms. It just covers my rear in the back.

The pants are the correct waist size, but the legs seem to large. How difficult is it to alter the leg diameter?

How much can I expect to pay in total for tailoring?

Thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Any other comments about the suit?

How do I find a good tailor in my area? There are several listed, but I can't find any information about them. I'm considering taking a shirt and/or pants to one and see how that turns out before I let them work on the suit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I like the fabric.

Not only are the sleeves too long, but the jacket itself seems too long. I would also look closely at the shoulders, because I don't think it fits you there.
Thanks for the advice. This jacket fits as well OTR as anything I tried locally. How much shorter does the jacket need to be? The salesmen in a few different stores all said that a 38R looked better than a 38S, but I'm probably somewhere in between.

What exactly is wrong about the shoulders? My shoulders really do slope that much. Here is a picture in a t-shirt that shows the natural shape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What's wrong with the shoulders (at least as far as I can see, which is a little difficult with the dark color of the suit) is that they seem to extend a good 1/2" beyond your natural shoulders. The shoulders should fit so that if you were to lean against a wall your shoulder and the shoulder of the jacket would hit the wall simultaneously.
Ok, that makes sense. I assume this is not too difficult to fix at the same time that the sleeves are shortened. It's good to know exactly what to ask the tailor to do before I go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Every store I went to put me in a 38R. I looked at some jacket measurements online, and it looks like there is 1.5" difference in length between a 38R and 38S.

I think I'll take it to a couple of tailors to get estimates before I decide. I don't mind spending ~$100 to make it fit correctly.

It sounds like the jacket needs the sleeves shortened, the overall length shortened, and the shoulders narrowed. The pants need the legs narrowed and hemmed and maybe some material removed from the seat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'll add another question here:
The first wedding that I'm going to is an evening wedding. I think the ceremony starts at 7PM with the reception at 9PM. Based on some searches here, I think a light to medium gray French cuff shirt with a black tie would be appropriate. I plan on using sliver cuff links and a silver tie bar. Sound ok?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I took the suit to a couple of tailors. One seemed decent. They quoted about $75 to shorten the jacket sleeves, shorten the jacket length 1.5-2", and hem the pants.

Even though the photo I posted makes the shoulders look a bit wide, they did not look that way today. Maybe it was the shirt or the way I was standing. They did not suggest changing the leg openings due to the single pleat. If they are narrowed, it makes the pleat look wrong.

For the sleeves, they shorten them at the cuff and move the buttons. Is this the correct method? How do I determine the exact correct sleeve length? I know that 1/2" of cuff should show, but is that with the sleeves pulled down as far as possible? When I move my arms, the sleeves will pull up and won't necessarily go all the way back down on their own.

Will the suit be passable with these alterations? It may not be 100% perfect, but I think it will look better than average.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
It seems like you bought a long instead of a regular, or even a short. As for the pants, perhaps a tailor can make them slimmer. I'm not talking about super trendy tappered skinny, just not as loose and baggy as they are now. Good start, and a great New Years goal...
The tag only has the European size as 48R. I think I'll see what the pants feel like after they are hemmed. It's hard to tell exactly with all the extra material at the ends.

Do the suits shown on the Zegna site fit correctly? I'm thinking of taking one of the photos with me to the tailor just to be clear on what it should look like. Here is a 3-button similar to mine.
 
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