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I just got it and took some pictures. Obviously it needs to be tailored. The pictures that show the vest below the jacket won't matter. I tightened the vest up and it seems to be at the proper height now.

I know the sleeves are short, but the issue is they have fake working button holes. I also know that tailcoat sleeves should show more cuff than normal (according to blacktieguide about 3/4") That would require ~1/4-1/2" Think this is doable without doing it from the shoulder? What is the proper length between thee end of the sleeve and the bottom button?

The tailcoat is 27% mohair and 73% wool. It is gorgeous - I was hoping for grosgrain; however, the satin looks quite nice and doesn't look shiny and cheap like low end tailcoats and tuxedos. The coat in back ends right at the bottom of my knee, and in the front it ends just below the waist.

Now, I've seen lots of 3 button vests and you button all buttons, but this one is 4 buttons. It seems like I should button all 4, true or no?







 

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That's great. I wish I had a reason to get a tailcoat.

Do not wear a watch with a tailcoat.

I know the sleeves are short, but the issue is they have fake working button holes. I also know that tailcoat sleeves should show more cuff than normal (according to blacktieguide about 3/4") That would require ~1/4-1/2" Think this is doable without doing it from the shoulder? What is the proper length between thee end of the sleeve and the bottom button?
Stand normally (arms relaxed at your sides), then flex your wrists so that your palms are facing down. The coat sleeves should just reach the backs of your hands. (Thanks to Phat Guido on Styleforum for this tip.)

Fake buttonholes can be unstitched. The center of the last button should be 1 1/4 inch from the end of the sleeve.

.....
Now, I've seen lots of 3 button vests and you button all buttons, but this one is 4 buttons. It seems like I should button all 4, true or no?
Yes, button all four.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's great. I wish I had a reason to get a tailcoat.

Do not wear a watch with a tailcoat.

Stand normally (arms relaxed at your sides), then flex your wrists so that your palms are facing down. The coat sleeves should just reach the backs of your hands. (Thanks to Phat Guido on Styleforum for this tip.)

Fake buttonholes can be unstitched. The center of the last button should be 1 1/4 inch from the end of the sleeve.

Yes, button all four.
My wedding seemed like a perfectly good excuse to wear a tailcoat, and I couldn't wear a rented tailcoat to my own wedding nor could I wear some el cheapo thing, so seems like a perfectly good excuse - I needed it. :icon_smile:

I don't plan to wear a wristwatch (like I don't plan on wearing the shirt I was wearing - I had just gotten home and had to try it on quickly). I was thinking about wearing a pocketwatch (which is acceptable according to blacktieguide).

Also, I will try that tip, but it is my understanding a tailcoat should show about 3/4" of cuff and on a suit coat I show about 1/4", so will this work?

oh its terrible, quickly mail it to me and be done with it!!

...but seriously, good luck with the sleeves, lets see it when its dialed in.
Call Sak's in Atlanta, that is where I found this. I know they had a couple others.
 

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Also, I will try that tip, but it is my understanding a tailcoat should show about 3/4" of cuff and on a suit coat I show about 1/4", so will this work?
blacktieguide is a great site but I am a little puzzled by the 3/4" cuff recommendation.

In general I find the statement "show X amount of shirt cuff" to be not helpful. The brilliance of PG's method is that it refers to the anatomy of the wearer in a direct and easily reproduced way. If your coat sleeves end there, and your shirt sleeves end at the base of the thumb (i.e., they cover the entire wrist but none of the palm of the hand), you will show about 1/2 inch of cuff. To me it seems more reasonable to try to get the fit of each garment just right with respect to your anatomy than to obsess over the PRECISE measurement of the exposed shirt cuff.

The other great thing about this method that it works the same regardless of the length of the shirt you happen to be wearing when you try on the coat. You could even wear a short sleeve shirt to a fitting and you'd still be able to tell if the coat sleeves were correct.
 

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If you don't mind my asking, did you get it for full retail? I see them at Saks all the time for about $1700. The only time I saw one at an outlet, it wasn't available in my size. I had to settle for a cheap label I got from an online formalwear website. Hopefully, I'll have a Canali by the time I make it to ball season in Vienna.
 

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It looks very good! I was most concerned about the shoulders.

There should be more than enough fabric in the sleeves to let them down. And if they aren't working sleeve buttons, they can pull the threads out and start over.

How is the length of the actual tails? It should fall to the back of your knee.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you don't mind my asking, did you get it for full retail? I see them at Saks all the time for about $1700. The only time I saw one at an outlet, it wasn't available in my size. I had to settle for a cheap label I got from an online formalwear website. Hopefully, I'll have a Canali by the time I make it to ball season in Vienna.
I did not pay full retail (I would have done the Hickey Freeman if I was going to pay that much). The tag said retail of $1950 then it was marked down to like $950 as clearance, and then I got an additional 50% off that. I figure: it came with the vest, so for $450 it was a good bargain, because I was going to buy the RL one online for $350, and this one is obviously much higher quality and comes with a vest, which would have cost me ~$50, so all in all I wound up paying $50 more for a significantly better tailcoat.

It looks very good! I was most concerned about the shoulders.

There should be more than enough fabric in the sleeves to let them down. And if they aren't working sleeve buttons, they can pull the threads out and start over.

How is the length of the actual tails? It should fall to the back of your knee.
The shoulders are good. If my shoulders were any wider, this wouldn't work, but I feel like it does. My shoulders aren't protruding out beyond the shoulder pad. I think it is a good fit there. I'm glad they can fix the pseudo-working buttonholes.

As for the length in back, the tails hit just at the bottom of my knee.
 
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