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My First Bespoke Suit!

8901 Views 16 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  JohnHarvard
Hey all,

I just commissioned my first bespoke suit. I'm using Paul Chang in Chicago. Today I picked out a beautiful Dormeuil. The fabric is 9-10oz--I forget which. I picked a slightly heavier fabric as a three season fabric. It is a navy color with subtle white chalky stripes.

I'll have three fittings. I'll try to post pictures from each one!

More Details: Its a single breasted, double button, with side vents. I have a special lining that is hard to describe but I'll try. Its Blue with reddish round flowers. It may sound wierd, but it looks pretty cool.
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You did very well in selecting a Dormeuil fabric. The have all their cloth milled in the Huddersfield region of England. Do you remember what collection of fabrics you choose from? Amadeus, Allegro, Essentials, etc...
How does Dormeuil favor against or compare to Holland & Sherry, Moxon and Scabal? I know for a fact that Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry, Moxon and Scabal are all miles ahead of Zegna and now Loro Piana.

BTW, as far as I know, Tier One (or, as you called it, OCCustom Tailor, Top Tier) consists, of Carlo Barbera (the best quality but also the most expensive on Earth), H. Lesser & Sons (the second best quality but also the second most expensive on Earth.), the Edinburgh Company (which consists of Harrisons, Porter & Harding and Lear Browne & Dunsford), Minnis & Harding (which consists of J & J Minnis and John G. Hardy) and a few others that I can't think of right now.

Unfortunately, I don't know the order of the other Tier One merchants below Carlo Barbera and H. Lesser & Sons in quality and price from the highest to the lowest.

Dormeuil may very, very well be on par with the Tier One merchants mentioned in the second paragraph above. Or, Dormeuil may only be on par with the Tier Two merchants (or, as you would probably call it, the Second Tier merchants) mentioned in the first paragraph above. I do not know for sure (far from it, FWIW).
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I think Dormeuil and Scabal both have some great strong points and have a slightly different focus. I personally like these two Huddersfield makers as some of the best fabrics at their price points from my experience, but that is mostly a preference.
That is interesting to know, omanae.

But still, how does Dormeuil fare against Holland & Sherry and Moxon?

I saw three Scabal fabric books recently at a bespoke tailor in Smithtown, NY (I live in St. James, NY, as it says in my profile in each message that I post; both Smithtown, NY and St. James, NY are in Northwestern-almost North Central Suffolk County and are both suburbs outside of New York, NY) named Enzo (I didn't get his last name).

The three fabric books from Scabal that I looked at were Scabal Classics Superfine Worsted Suitings (where all of the fabrics were 13-ounce 100% super 80s, super 90s or both worsted wool; the super number was not listed, which usually means that it is super 80s or super 90s-sometimes both in the same book), Scabal St. James Super 100s (where all of the fabrics were ten-ounce super 100s worsted wool; this book was clearly more for fall and winter than spring but good for spring, just as long as the high temperature is not 70 degrees and higher or 39 degrees and lower-forget summer with this book) and Scabal Super 100s Worsted Wool Suitings (where all of the fabrics were 100% super 100s worsted wool; this book is clearly for fall, winter and spring equally, just as long as the high temperature is not 80 degrees and higher or 39 degrees and lower-this book is not good for summer but better than the other super 100s wool book is for summer).

All around, I was hugely impressed with the Scabal fabrics that I looked at. But not as impressed as I was with the fabrics from Holland & Sherry in Books 274 (from the fall of 1994, the original and older-err-much older version) and 507 (from the fall of 2007, the updated and newer-err-much newer version), both of which are titled "The Holland & Sherry Perennial Collection (both of these books are much more the same as than they are different from each other).

I will talk more about my most up to date opinions of the fabrics in other Holland & Sherry fabric books that I have looked at before (some of which I have swatches for that H&S in New York, NY was nice enough to send me for free) in a private message later today.
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