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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I finally picked up my suit today and took the opportunity to get measured for a BB custom shirt. It should be ready in about 4 weeks so I am told. It also is made in the US, somewhere down south, where exactly escapes me but I believe they are made in two separate locations in the US.

They offer a very extensive array of shirting materials in a variety of weaves and quality levels which I didn't really torture them to differentiate much. Suffice to say its Oxfords and Broadcloths of various patterns and finishes most in two-ply 100s to maybe 150s with a steep premium for sea island cotton. They run at the very low end for roughly $150 up to maybe $350. they also do twills.

The process is fairly extensive but it is short of bespoke in a number of regards. the firs step involves trying on a collarless shirt with weird sleeves that end just below your elbows. These shirts come in three different cuts and sizes incrementing by the half inch. The cuts (I believe) are slim, regular and "luxury" (i.e. big) and the body portions are de-coupled from the collars such that you could do a 16 slim with a 17 collar etc.

I went for a half-inch over the 15.5 that I tried on as it seemed to cling to my undershirt and not ride over it. The 16 I settled on was a slim and it didn't balloon out as it went down, it had a nice taper or was at least a stove pipe as I personally don't taper! the arm holes where at least an inch higher than a standard shirt (not a bb which I think tend to run larger than average). I didn't want to look like a flying squirrel when I put my arms straight out at my sides but I also didn't want it to look like i was wearing a long sleeved t-shirt so I was quite happy with that, I was actually surprised because BB doesn't do fit armholes on anything unless it says "fit".

Once the body was selected along with the cut it was time to measure. the measurements included:

1. neck
2. shoulders across the back
3. each sleeve from mid back
4. wrist (just one)
5. Bicep (just one)
6. chest under the arms
7. upper torso - measured around the outside of my arms at chest height
8. length
9. waist
10. below the waist around the hips.

thats farily extensive but my wish-list items would be: craft the body so that each seperate shoulder was measured, cuff length, collar height, collar point length. At that point it would be virtually bespoke so I understand their limitations.

I then chose:

1. collar style
2. vent style
3. cuff style
4. button placket style
5. sleeve placket with or without buttons.
6. pocket placement and style
7. monogramming (location, letters, font)
8. yoke style (single or split)

Because its a a first shirt I went with the following (very basic):

white 2-ply broadcloth
point collar
outboard double vents
single button barrel cuff (arms arent long, dont want elongated double button cuffs to shorten the appearance of my arm length)
french shirt placket
traditional sleeve plackets with single buttons
no pocket (as I am short from the waist up the pocket is always half way between shoulder and belt!)
no monogram.
single yoke

What I hope to end up with is a very clean, stripped down white dress shirt that offers the flexibilty to be put into quick rotation so I can cycle it through the wash 3-4 times and then see about the fit when it "stabilizes" in size.

If that results in a green light I would probably get a few more but I don't think I would go ape, just use it as a stepping stone towards bespoke.

I believe it ran about $230 with half now and half later being their billing method.

I could see getting a white with french cuffs, an oxford with traditional placket in stripes and maybe a blue and white twill done as a dress shirt.

last thought: You cant pick the buttons, you get MOP (or MOP looking) buttons that are thicker than the buttons on the Nordstrom shirt I was wearing (by half) but not the 4mm MOP "wedding cakes" you might find on a nice italian shirt.

I will post a pic or three when it comes in. The whole process took maybe 30-40 minutes from start to finish but that was due to me talking shirts with the guy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Aside from the Lands End "Do it yourself" program on line the answer is no I haven't. I did this on an impulse so maybe you could suggest a few alternates.

As for the lands-end on-line thing I have to say the one shirt I got fit about as well as a RTW shirt would, I didn't dial it in perfectly because they ask a lot of vague generalized questions and it doesn't get into many measurements so it requires you to order a few shirts just to get your inputs correct which this process wouldn't do as you are literally measured 10 different ways by someone who was trained in how to measure just for the BB program.

BB also offers over one hundred shirting samples to choose from and you can see and feel them in person, that helps a lot.

I look forward to anyone's input regarding alternate programs and how they compare as far as the order process is concerned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I went to the BB in Greenwich CT. Its not the closest to my house but they were the only ones with a 42R Fitzgerald when I THOUGHT that was the suit I wanted. When I tried it one it didn't work with my build so I bought another suit and had to go back for the tailoring which led to the shirt.
 

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Let us know how it turns out. It's nice that you can size up and down on the fit like that.
 

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deanayer,

Have you visited the https://www.mytailor.com website?

I have no experience with them, but took a look after reading another thread on the forum tonight. Looks much like the experience you describe with BB, except you measure a current shirt that fits you perfectly, have someone take your measurements, or send them a shirt that fits you perfectly.

I'm like you in that i much prefer to see and feel a fabric, but I think i may well try this anyway. Very inexpensive, relatively speaking. I'm sure quite a few people here have used this method of ordering shirts from mytailor (Hemrajani brothers).
 

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Relayer: They travel across the US, so you can be measured and feel fabrics in person.
 
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