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Hey everyone,
My father is going to be getting his first extremely high quality suit and asked me to help him decide. I was wondering if someone could explain to me the merits of MTM vs going with a bespoke tailor.

Secondly, I was wondering if some of you guys could explain to me the different suit silhouettes and the bodytypes that they fit. My father is approx 5'9, 140lbs and he is particularly thin.

The main houses and styles I was wondering about are Brioni, Kiton, Oxxford and Giorgio Armani. I have searched online to really see the silhouttes but obviously any pictures would be greatly appreciated.

This would be for a business suit if that makes a difference.

Thank you very much.
 

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Any silhouette can be made to fit a figure of any shape and size. It all depends on what your father likes. One thing the silhouette should be is well proportioned and not dependent on current fashions. Brioni is a very built up suit while Kiton is soft and relaxed. Oxxford can do many styles and from what I've read here it has a very good MTM program. Forget about Armani. That's a brand that only cares about what style is popular at the current time and isn't about quality or lasting style. My favourite silhouette is the English, and you can see such a suit at this site: https://www.henrypoole.com. The English style is one that will always look good and tends to be very flattering when cut properly. Important features that English suits have are things like side vents on the jacket and forward pleats on the trousers. I also like trousers with adjustable side tabs to hold them up and never belt loops. I find it looks cleaner and more sophisticated. Not everyone will agree with me on my style, but this is what I prefer myself.
 

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Yes, I would say that Henry Poole's illustration is a good one. A subtle English silhouette.



Note, the softer shoulders, tapered waist, and slightly extended skirt.

A beautiful shape.

There is so much information about the various cuts of suits on this forum that you should should do some more research of your own, first.
 

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This is surreal.

The OP did not enquire about any English firms. Then develops an argument about whether Poole's shoulders are soft when the original comment was indeed spot on, that they are SOFTER, not soft, in the obviously implied reference to other English firms, namely on the Row, rather than to American or Italian counterparts.

TheRake, I suggest you do a search on this site to read up on the relative merits of MTM vs bespoke. More often than not, it boils down to cost. If you can afford proper bespoke, the reasons for buying MTM are few and far between.

As for the brands you mentioned, I am not aware that any of them offer bespoke, just MTM, at least in the US. The best and only way to determine whether one style appeals to one's particular taste is to go to your local retail location and see them. Some of the brands mentioned charge respectable bespoke prices for their MTM offer (and get away with it), so it is a matter of what your / your papa's priorities are.

happy hunting,
md
 

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I'm sure you have thought of this already but make sure it is a two button coat instead of a three. His height dictates that button placement and I would ask for a 2.75" or 3" wide lapel. No need to go any thinner and definitely not wider. It sounds like he could easily wear a plain front pant but if he likes pleats then ask the tailor to make them 1 1/2" deep so they lay flatter. Many off the rack suits come with pleats as shallow as .75" or less. That just makes them pop open, especially if the pants are worn at all low in the front. It doesn't sound like he has a tummy at his weight so there is no need to lower the front rise.

For fashion sake, you might also want to get him a selection of colored or patterned pocket squares to really pull it off. Remember suits with multi-stripes & patterns that lend themselves to be worn with or without a tie are all the rage right now. Sports coats that can be worn with slacks or jeans are a great way to go casual but keep it classy.

Not only does a jacket complete the look of any outfit, casual to business, it adds function as well. A coat is a man's purse. It's where he puts his PDA, wallet, shades, business cards, etc.

The outside of a jacket should have three or four pockets, with sub-pockets inside the larger two. Inside it should be adorned with a minimum of three, but preferably five or six pocket for a man's essentials.

I have been selling custom shirts, suits and sport coats for over ten years now in Seattle as well as the West Coast and have really found that the jacket is where fit, function & fashion meet.
 

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When tailoring a coat at the baste up you can decide if you would like 2 or 3 buttons and where the roll begins and how you want the roll to be. It is easy to adjust where the buttons go and how many one wants and how the lapel would look best. And always stand the way you normaly stand; not the way your mother said or drill sargent or anybody else.

Your height and weight makes no difference in whatever "style" or "fashion" you decide on. The bespoke world has many options with any "style" or "fashion" to make you look great. In the tailoring world, at least of the past, there is a word called 'taste'. The art of the tailor is to make you look good in any "style" or "fashion" and that is called taste.
 
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