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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, all. This site has been helpful with a lot of formal wear questions in the past, and normally searching the forums brings me a wonderful answer. I have a few questions. I'm looking at (an eventual) formal daytime wedding. I've already purchased a black cutaway and the striped trousers. A few questions:

  • A top hat is proper. Should it be black, too (silk?), or should it be grey like these fellows?
  • What are the proper waistcoat colors? Is dove grey acceptable, or should it be white?
  • Finally, are braces/suspenders used with the trousers, and what color should they ideally be (even if you never see them)?
Many thanks.
 

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Black and gray toppers are equally appropriate with morning dress. In my opinion, gray hats, like gray morning coats, are a slightly less formal alternative to the black version. Gray hats will be of wool or fur felt, while black ones can be either felt or silk (hard-shell, not a collapsible opera hat). Many prefer silk for its luster, but silk toppers aren't made anymore and are hard to come by.

Dove grey and buff (a yellowish tan) are the most traditional colors. I think I'd stay away from white, though off-white or cream linen might be nice. Pakeman Catto & Carter offer other colors as well, any of which I think would be fine for a slightly more playful look.

Suspenders are always preferable when you're wearing a waistcoat, and I think you answered your own question about the color. Nobody will see them, so it really doesn't matter. I wear black silk ones with my morning kit, but I could as easily wear fluorescent purple braces with green spots. Doesn't make a bit of difference.
 

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None of those are morning suits in the proper sense. An attire is only a suit if the coat and trousers match (suit from suivre = to follow in French).

This is a morning suit:

Light grey morning suits are usually only worn by the groom. All others, including members of the wedding party, should wear black or charcoal grey with striped/formal check morning trousers.

Morning trousers should always be cut as brace trousers. The waistcoat with a dark morning coat (cutaway) may be matching or dove grey. A light yellowish tan or "buff" coloured linen waistcoat is also smart for summer wear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It does answer a great deal of my questions. Those Macclesfield ties look wonderful, too-- except that I don't know where they can be purchased! Otherwise, I'm still torn between the grey topper, even if it's with a black cutaway, and the black silk. I've got time to decide, but I'm thinking that as it is looking to be a white tie reception later in the evening, maybe the grey would change it up some.
 

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I think melusine fur felt (as offered by Christy's, amongst others) is a reasonable substitute for black silk; for the real thing you will have to go vintage.

As to waistcoats, I might wear white if trying to evoke an "Edwardian" look but dove grey or buff are better choices. Pakeman Catto and Carter offer quite a good range of these:

https://www.pakeman.co.uk/products.php?cat=27
 

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Finally, are braces/suspenders used with the trousers, and what color should they ideally be (even if you never see them)?
A few years ago, Brooks Brothers was selling what it called "morning stripe" braces. They are striped in lite and dark grey, have silver-toned hardware, and seem to fit nicely with the overall daytime formal aesthetic. I wore 'em to my wedding, at which I wore a stroller rather than a morning coat. I don't see the braces online any more, but it's quite possible that some of the brick and mortar stores still have them in stock. Could be worth a call if you are interested. I think they were about $75. Here's a photo:

 

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A well-attired group.

The morning dress (not suit) looks fine and grey toppers are just OK for a wedding although the more formal black is preferred.

there will be conjecture but grey is surely only suitable for the races although as a picture below suggest HRH The Prince of Wales tends to favour that ensemble for weddings.

Hello, all. This site has been helpful with a lot of formal wear questions in the past, and normally searching the forums brings me a wonderful answer. I have a few questions. I'm looking at (an eventual) formal daytime wedding. I've already purchased a black cutaway and the striped trousers. A few questions:

  • A top hat is proper. Should it be black, too (silk?), or should it be grey like these fellows?
  • What are the proper waistcoat colors? Is dove grey acceptable, or should it be white?
  • Finally, are braces/suspenders used with the trousers, and what color should they ideally be (even if you never see them)?
Many thanks.
 

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GrumF14,

Hackett does a stunning double breasted waistcoat in buff linen. My morning coat is mid grey with a matching grey DB waistcoat (also by Hackett), but if I was ever to purchase a black coat, I would go for the DB buff linen waistcoat.

Re the top hat, try Ebay, there is usually a good selection unless you are a size 7 1/2 or larger. A few stunners here at the moment:
 

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I think melusine fur felt (as offered by Christy's, amongst others) is a reasonable substitute for black silk; for the real thing you will have to go vintage.

As to waistcoats, I might wear white if trying to evoke an "Edwardian" look but dove grey or buff are better choices. Pakeman Catto and Carter offer quite a good range of these:

https://www.pakeman.co.uk/products.php?cat=27
I will be wearing morning dress for my upcoming wedding and I am thinking of doing a white waistcoat. I would also consider something along the lines of the "Calico" color offered at the above link. The waistcoat will be doublebreasted with a basque waistline.

What do people think of using the calico or white compared to the buff or grey? Does anyone have pictures of either of these being worn? I'd love to see how it looks.

All thoughts and input are appreciated.

Mike
 

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It is a model. I am sorry to say I am plenty of years older than the picture. My daughter is getting married this May and my son-in-law to be has ordered a cream waistcoat with black edges from Favourbrook. My son who married last year had two waistcoats made one grey with white edges and one in a blue material with Aboriginal design both by Favourbrook again. They are both very happy.

I get my morning dress waistcoats from Ede and Ravenscroft but they are much more conventional.
 

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In the words of my old & very eccentrically English Flight Lieutenant:

"Sarn't, the men look like an absolute sha'r, get them sorted."

And I'd say the same about this group, they do like like an absolute shower! I wonder who advised them on sizes. It looks like they just took whatever the suit hire shop had in on that day. I think they look awful. And the hats look like the kind of toy hats you buy in a masquerade shop along with fake kilts, French maids uniforms, Vampire capes and false boobs!
 

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Personally, grey toppers are only really suitable for the races. Nothing beats a black high silk (or fur melusine if silk unobtainable in your size).

As for waistcoats white, grey, buff are acceptable.

Braces: since they won't be seen, any would do. I prefer scarlet boxcloth. Trousers ought to be cut for braces as Sator siad.


EDIT: just realised the date of the OP is several years ago! Oh well...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
EDIT: just realised the date of the OP is several years ago! Oh well...
Yes, indeed! I was surprised when my name came back up with this post. Luckily, I've changed girlfriends since the time of the OP, and this one much appreciates my desire to dress up-- and likes the idea of being married in morning dress, to be followed by a private dinner later in the evening in white tie.
 
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