Levels of Handwork in RTW / Custom Clothing

Hello all, I am an avid reader but new to posting threads on AAAC.

Anyway, I am interested if anyone knows or can accurately guess how much handwork (hours or percentage of total work) goes into various lines of RTW and Custom clothing. For the price, I really like Martin Greenfield's Brooks Golden Fleece RTW. My understanding is that it is about 40% handmade, (my Brooks salesman told me 12 hours for the suit in all). I wonder if Oxxford is truly 100% handmade, and if it justifies the huge price difference. Other brands I wonder about are Hickey Freeman and Kiton.

Has anyone on the forum been able to tell a difference between hand-padded lapels/collars and machine padded lapels/collars? What about the thickness and heaviness of the canvas used in the garment? Darren, do you have anything to say about this?

Anyways, I look forward to future intelligent conversation with the forum members.

Regards,

Mattthew Morse