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Length difference between 40R and 38R?

53K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  Steve Smith  
#1 ·
I've discovered that after putting on 20lbs in last couple of years, my suit jacket is a little small in the shoulders. It has a few bubbles in back, between shoulder blades and kind of bunches up on top of my shoulders.

I plan on possibly picking up a sport jacket for a funeral Monday. Obviously short notice. My 38R used to fit pretty well. I'm guessing I will be going up to a 40. My question is, will a 40R be the same length as a 38R, or is it a little longer?

I've seen some of the charts saying something like anyone over 5'11" should be in an "L". But, my 38R seemed to be a perfect length. I'm 6'0".

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
As I recall standard lengths from bottom of collar are 31 for R, 32 for ML, and 33 for L. Naturally I am 44ML which isn't made any more so I have to size up to 44L. More than anything else it depends on the manufacturer and cut. "Modern" jackets tend to be a little shorter these days. Your body and torso shape and lengths too will determine jacket length.

Good luck
 
#4 ·
So, a 50R is going to be the same lenght as a 40R, at least in the same model.
It should be, roughly. Regular can be any length between 30 and 32 inches. Short is anything less than 30 inches, and Long is 32 inches and longer. As DKS202 says, that's from the bottom of the collar.

While gaining 20 pounds could move you from a 38 to a 40, it shouldn't move you from a R to an L. But there's a 2 inch leeway for Regular length jackets, so you'll want to try on any new purchase first to make sure it covers your rear.
 
#5 ·
My question is, will a 40R be the same length as a 38R, or is it a little longer?
Probably about the same length. If there's a difference - and there may not be - it'd likely be a sufficiently small difference that you needn't worry too much about it.

But speaking of length, what about sleeve length? If you're picking up the jacket today, to wear to a funeral the day after tomorrow, that doesn't leave much time for alterations. And while a need for some alterations can be ignored with a little effort, it'd really bug me to wear a jacket with sleeves a few inches too long. Oh well, I suppose you could just put up with it for the funeral, then have any necessary alterations done later on.

I've seen some of the charts saying something like anyone over 5'11" should be in an "L". But, my 38R seemed to be a perfect length. I'm 6'0".
There are retailers who suggest that men over 5'11" should wear a Long. And others who set the line at 6'1".

Ignore all this. Cuts vary. Men's builds - even for men of the same height - vary. Tastes vary. Only by trying on the jacket, will you be able to tell whether a Long looks better on you than does a Regular. If a chart says you should be wearing a Long, but the Regular simply looks better on you, you'd be a fool to obey the chart's instructions.

FWIW, I'm 6' tall. And I strongly dislike the current fashion for shorter jackets. And even so, many of my suits and sport coats are Regulars, not Longs.

So, a 50R is going to be the same length as a 40R, at least in the same model.
Maybe. But not necessarily. Even manufacturers who don't change the jacket's length with every size increment, may still opt to make their larger sizes - say, 48 and up - a little longer than their smaller sizes.

And at some point in the next few weeks, go get yourself a new suit. One that fits you now, not as you were a couple of years and 20 lbs. ago. Because a man should have at least one suit which fits him. Because you never know when you'll need a suit. For example, when attending a wedding or a funeral. (Particularly a funeral, since obviously they're more likely than weddings to happen on short notice.)

It doesn't have to be a particularly pricey suit. Even quite an inexpensive solid grey suit, which fits you well, is an enormous improvement over having no properly-fitting suit at all, and likely versatile enough to suffice for nearly any suit-worthy occasion in which you might find yourself.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the help, everyone.

12345Michael54321, I had planned on just putting up with the sleeve lenght, just for the funeral. I'm still not even sure I will buy the sportjacket. I may just buy a sweater and spend a little more time finding a sport jacket i really like. I figured as long as I'm at MAcy's, I will look. Maybe I will really like something.

As far as the suit, you are completely correct. I wear suits, any really nice clothes actually, so infrequently that it takes an occasion for me to actually buy something. It's really a bad way to build a wardrobe. The 38R I bought I got for my mom's funeral, on 3 days notice. Got a Pronto Uomo from MW for convenience sake, but I was never completely happy with it. I'm trying to stop doing that. I think I'm leaning towards a BB 1818. I figure if I'm only going to wear it a couple of times a year, I might as well be something I'm comfortable with.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the help, everyone.

12345Michael54321, I had planned on just putting up with the sleeve lenght, just for the funeral. I'm still not even sure I will buy the sportjacket. I may just buy a sweater and spend a little more time finding a sport jacket i really like. I figured as long as I'm at MAcy's, I will look. Maybe I will really like something.
Yes, don't buy something you don't like, just for the funeral. A sweater will be fine. Also, if you have a topcoat, you could just wear that.

For suits, you may want to take a look at Sierra Trading Post. With extra discounts, you may find a very nice Jack Victor suit for about $300 or so -- nicer than the JV suits at MW. STP gives you free shipping on exchanges. So, you can try different suits at no extra shipping cost.
 
#9 ·
Thanks, Stubbly. I will definitely check that out. I saw the Jack Victor's at MW and did a little research. Pretty sure I've decided to just stay away from MW. Seemed to be some descrepancy over whether they were fused or half. I was planning on spending between $500 - $1000 and I've run across of a lot of fans of the BB 1818s. But, I will definitely check out Sierra. I remember seeing Bill O'Reilly wearing Jack Victors and I always thought they looked good.
 
#10 ·
It should be, roughly. Regular can be any length between 30 and 32 inches. Short is anything less than 30 inches, and Long is 32 inches and longer. As DKS202 says, that's from the bottom of the collar.

While gaining 20 pounds could move you from a 38 to a 40, it shouldn't move you from a R to an L. But there's a 2 inch leeway for Regular length jackets, so you'll want to try on any new purchase first to make sure it covers your rear.
Today it's not uncommon to find a regular that's 29 inches. More than 30" in a regular right now is rare. Last year I got a Ralph Lauren Black Label sports coat in a long, and I'm 5'9". The length is 31", which is perfect for me.
 
#11 ·
Disclaimer: This applies to Brooks Brothers suits. There will always be slight variations due to imprecision in manufacturing.

Within the same source and cut, USA made (Southwick) 1818 Madison for example, each increasing size has a small incremental increase in length.
Here are the BOC lengths of three Madison suits I have for sale now:
36R 30
48R 31.25
54R 32.25